Level table without level

Jason Robichaud

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I setup my table after moving a couple months ago. I didn't have a precision level. I have 2,4, and 6 foot levels for construction and used them for the frame. I rolled balls on the slate until they rolled straight. Once they rolled straight everywhere on the table I clothed and railed table. Worked great and playing better than when I paid to have it setup. I don't think RKC would recommend it, but it worked in a pinch and rolls perfect. It still rolls stow though, I think the basement slows down 860. I'm going to look at in-floor heating and see about attaching it to the slate under the table.
 
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Back in college, I was shown this impromtu trick to check table level and cloth speed.

Rest the object balls on top of the rubber rails lined up with the diamonds.
On bar tables block off the front and side pockets with cue sticks so you don't accidentally pocket any balls.

Then using a the bridge stick gently nurse the balls until they drop off the rail simultaneously. You should nudge it so it drops onthe table with only the momentum provide by gravity. If you do this right and for all four sides the ball roll for all 4 sides should be equidistant, and give you a rough idea of cloth speed.

http://CueTable.com/P/?@4AOSw4BAfw3...XNkG1YAWt1YAVJ3bcgH3bQNI3ccmV3cPuX3dcck3dPLl@
 
Get a small pane of glass. Lay it on the slate. Gentle put a ball in the middle of the glass, there you go.
 
Franky said:
Get a small pane of glass. Lay it on the slate. Gentle put a ball in the middle of the glass, there you go.

I've seen that done with marbles on glass too. Very sensitive.
 
thanks for those tips guys. Im gonna try em all out. I just cant justify spending all that cheese for a machinists level. So these will have to do.

keep em coming, anyone else got some ideas.
 
Use a billiard ball on glass instead of a marble. I tried this out today and found the billiard ball to be more sensitive.

Awesome idea, though. Thanks for the post and the answers!
 
Me too, I think its a great way to do it. With an enormous amount of help from another member here (Driven) He and I set up my CGIII.

We leveled the table frame as dead nuts as we could using levels, and then squared up the slates on the frame. We first ran a razor across the slate pieces and got them shimmed perfectly at the joints.

It was his idea to use a ball and ever so lightly touch it with a cue stick ( it will roll forever without the cloth) pay close attention to the table roll and shim the corners where needed to get completely true rolls.

Once we did that we bees waxed the seams, and the table plays absolutely true with 760 on it. IMO I'd never attempt to level the slates any other way. This thing is dead perfect.

It takes longer to do it this way if you are meticulous, but the slight rolls don't show up using levels. Doing it this way duplicates exactly what the ball will do. ( cause it is the ball) :thumbup:
 
3andstop said:
Me too, I think its a great way to do it. With an enormous amount of help from another member here (Driven) He and I set up my CGIII.

We leveled the table frame as dead nuts as we could using levels, and then squared up the slates on the frame. We first ran a razor across the slate pieces and got them shimmed perfectly at the joints.

It was his idea to use a ball and ever so lightly touch it with a cue stick ( it will roll forever without the cloth) pay close attention to the table roll and shim the corners where needed to get completely true rolls.

Once we did that we bees waxed the seams, and the table plays absolutely true with 760 on it. IMO I'd never attempt to level the slates any other way. This thing is dead perfect.

It takes longer to do it this way if you are meticulous, but the slight rolls don't show up using levels. Doing it this way duplicates exactly what the ball will do. ( cause it is the ball) :thumbup:
They show up if you're using "machinist" levels:wink: And just for information purposes, balls will follow in the grind tracks of a bare slate :wink:

Glen
 
realkingcobra said:
They show up if you're using "machinist" levels:wink: And just for information purposes, balls will follow in the grind tracks of a bare slate :wink:

Glen


Yeah, I don't doubt for a second that this wouldn't be the recommended way to do it, but .... after doing it this way, I'm gonna have to settle for perfect! cause that's how it rolls. :)
 
Thanks for all the great info in this thread. I'm almost looking forward to recovering my table now. :)
 
Just wondering,if I do not have a square piece of glass lying around,can I use a piece of pexi-glass or is it to soft? Thank's for the info...Ron
 
an old table mechanic showed me a trick... hold a cueball 6" above a diamond... then move it out to the edge of the cushion .. drop the ball.. so that is grazes the cushion and begins to roll on the slate..if it rolls straight to the diamond on the opposite rail you are good to go...

now check the rest of the diamonds..

works better than a level... and finds roll offs on a "leveled" table..

it's simple, it's easy, and it works... I like it..
 
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