Lifted Finish

cueguy

cueguy

Just a repair guy
Silver Member
I just finished installing a stacked leather wrap on a Dale Perry.

finish.jpg


Wondering if any of you had this problem. I probably should not have used electrical tape on the finish when dying, but that is what it said to use in the Tiger Instructional Video. Is it just because he does such a thin layer of finish? It did not affect the forearm area - just below the wrap.
Does anyone know what type of finish Dale Perry uses?
Thanks for any info!
 
Its happened to me a few times. I currently use 3M, orange core, blue masking tape. If you are worried about the finish lifting when removed, a little alcohol over the tape will let it release easier.

If there is lifting before you work on it, take pictures....
 
Painters Tape?

ratcues said:
Its happened to me a few times. I currently use 3M, orange core, blue masking tape. If you are worried about the finish lifting when removed, a little alcohol over the tape will let it release easier.

If there is lifting before you work on it, take pictures....
Click to expand...

I appreciate your response. Haven't heard of orange core - is that the same as the blue painters tape?
What do you think about that new "Frog" tape?
Thanks!
 
I wouldn't bet the barn or the Buick on it but the points look to be Coco.
It's a good trick to get any finish to adhere to it, except for maybe oil.
I can't tell from the pic but is the lifting restricted to just the CoCo?
This is not a good place to be and you have my sympathy.
It's the vast no-man's land located right btwn a rock & a hard place.
Nice wrap btw.

Good Luck, KJ
 
Thanks!

KJ Cues said:
I wouldn't bet the barn or the Buick on it but the points look to be Coco.
It's a good trick to get any finish to adhere to it, except for maybe oil.
I can't tell from the pic but is the lifting restricted to just the CoCo?
This is not a good place to be and you have my sympathy.
It's the vast no-man's land located right btwn a rock & a hard place.
Nice wrap btw.

Good Luck, KJ
Click to expand...

You are correct - I believe it is Coco. It is not restricted to the Coco but that is where it started.
This is my third stacked leather wrap... I love the look of these.

And CamposCue... great idea.

Thanks a bunch!
 
Yes, blue painter's tape but the cardboard roll is orange. It has a lower tack. As Campos said, pull at an angle and always pull towards the edge of the finish, which is in the direction of the wrap. Slowly.
 
(Not so) funny story about this thread. I was doing leather a few minutes ago and had a cue, notorious for lifting the finish. It had chips in the sleeve so I took out my camera and made notes. I put the wrap on, no problems there. I was actually thinking about this thread as I was doing it. The f'n finish lifted off half of the sleeve!

I sat back and had to laugh a little...
 
ratcues said:
(Not so) funny story about this thread. I was doing leather a few minutes ago and had a cue, notorious for lifting the finish. It had chips in the sleeve so I took out my camera and made notes. I put the wrap on, no problems there. I was actually thinking about this thread as I was doing it. The f'n finish lifted off half of the sleeve!

I sat back and had to laugh a little...
Click to expand...


Was the wood Coco as well?
 
Laugh ...

ratcues said:
(Not so) funny story about this thread. I was doing leather a few minutes ago and had a cue, notorious for lifting the finish. It had chips in the sleeve so I took out my camera and made notes. I put the wrap on, no problems there. I was actually thinking about this thread as I was doing it. The f'n finish lifted off half of the sleeve!

I sat back and had to laugh a little...
Click to expand...

I guess you do have to laugh. Since this is leather, you will probably fix this by saving the wrap also. Can you give us hints as to the easiest way to fix this AND save the wrap? I love the learning curve ;-)
Thanks!
 
cueguy said:
I guess you do have to laugh. Since this is leather, you will probably fix this by saving the wrap also. Can you give us hints as to the easiest way to fix this AND save the wrap? I love the learning curve ;-)
Thanks!
Click to expand...

Your case and my case are different in approach. I believe it is much easier to save a stack wrap than a one piece/traditional leather wrap because you can sand it.

The cue I f'd up was not cocobolo but a stained maple. To understand what happened, I need to explain something about clear coats, in very general terms. Some clears, whether UV or catalyzed, adhere differently. Some adhere to the substrate, some to itself. The type that adheres to itself works only until it lifts for some reason. Usually from trauma. In my case, it was both trauma and me pulling on it with tape. Once it started to lift, there is no stopping it. It pulls clean from the taped area. Any left could be blown off with my air hose.

To correctly refinish this/my sleeve, I should remove the wrap. The time wasted working around it could be saved by just removing the wrap and finishing it the right way. I have seen a good many cues refinished without removing the wrap, leather or linen. It is always obvious because there is no way properly transition from the new finish to the wrap. Wet sanding and dressing the undercut shoulder, so it is a clean 90*, is very difficult to do while working around the wrap.
 
ratcues said:
Your case and my case are different in approach. I believe it is much easier to save a stack wrap than a one piece/traditional leather wrap because you can sand it.

The cue I f'd up was not cocobolo but a stained maple. To understand what happened, I need to explain something about clear coats, in very general terms. Some clears, whether UV or catalyzed, adhere differently. Some adhere to the substrate, some to itself. The type that adheres to itself works only until it lifts for some reason. Usually from trauma. In my case, it was both trauma and me pulling on it with tape. Once it started to lift, there is no stopping it. It pulls clean from the taped area. Any left could be blown off with my air hose.

To correctly refinish this/my sleeve, I should remove the wrap. The time wasted working around it could be saved by just removing the wrap and finishing it the right way. I have seen a good many cues refinished without removing the wrap, leather or linen. It is always obvious because there is no way properly transition from the new finish to the wrap. Wet sanding and dressing the undercut shoulder, so it is a clean 90*, is very difficult to do while working around the wrap.
Click to expand...

What finishes only stick to themselves? I can't even think of a good reason to use something like that. I'm not questioning the validity, just hoping you'll share.
 
Lexicologist71 said:
What finishes only stick to themselves? I can't even think of a good reason to use something like that. I'm not questioning the validity, just hoping you'll share.
Click to expand...

Specifically, I don't know. Each finish has its little nuances. Now, this is based, not only on experience, but with conversations with reps from different clear coat companies like PPG and Dupont. Most clears won't even stick to metal. That's why there is a primer.

The trick is, the more aggressive the finish adheres, the more difficult it is to polish. This is, again, generally speaking. This is why finishing a cue has the most difficult learning curve. Sometimes you don't realize you have a problem until 3 or 6 months down the road.

I use two finishes during my process. One is a clear base coat that is pretty aggressive and difficult to work with. Then, I shoot a different one over the top that will adhere to scuffed surfaces and is easy to polish.
 
There are also plastic fine line finishing tapes available at some Automotive finishing supply stores that leave a very sharp line and are low tack with no glue transfer but they don't do much better than blue painters tape in our line of work. BTW it is always a good idea to get the tape off as soon as possible and when removing the tape peel it off slowly at a shallow angle by rolling the cue as you peel the tape.

As far as a repair to the lifted finish, what you are seeing is an air bubble between layers if finish. To try and repair this get a very sharp pointed X-Acto knife and make a tiny pin ***** through the bubble in the most inconspicuous spot you can find then, with a really fine nozzle carefully put a drop of super glue onto the hole you made and with the blade of the knife push the bubble down so that the glue goes into the void.Once the bubble disappears, hold the bubble down with the tip of the blade for a few seconds. When everything is dry, carefully wet sand the super glue residue off and polish the repair area.

You might be able to substitute other materials for the super glue but nothing I have used is any more certain to do the job and everything else would take longer.
 
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