light
Non polarized light,
Polarized light same settings as above.
Non polarized light,
Polarized light same settings as above.
Lighting FAQ
- Thread starter BobY
- Start date
Was the fixture originally designed for T8 lamps? If so it should be an electronic ballast and you should see no flicker as an electronic runs a 20,000 HZ (opposed to the old magnetic T12 ballast which were at 60 HZ). If you are happy with the amount of light you have I would probably leave it alone. Electronic fluorescent ballast have a ballast factor which determines what percentage of the light makes it's way to you. For example a ballast may have a ballast factor of .77 which means you will only get 77% of the lumen's that you would if you had a 1.0 ballast factor. Sometimes using a ballast with a lower power factor is a design function as the fixture may be bright enough and save energy with a lower power factor. Usually though it is done as a cheap factory ballast has poor ballast factors. If you want it to be brighter let me know what ballast factor you have (or model number if unsure).
Thank you BobY for your time and expertise. It's appreciated.
Just for fun, I have a 4 fixture lamp over my GC w/standard green Simonis 860 that was designed for incandescent bulbs. I currently have 4 florescent curly bulbs that are equivalent to 60w (5000k) and it's too dark. What would you suggest in my case?
Thanks!
Dave
Just for fun, I have a 4 fixture lamp over my GC w/standard green Simonis 860 that was designed for incandescent bulbs. I currently have 4 florescent curly bulbs that are equivalent to 60w (5000k) and it's too dark. What would you suggest in my case?
Thanks!
Dave
Bob,
I can't thank you enough for taking the time to disseminate all this information.
Someplace deep down inside, I'd like to imagine that my dad with his 14 Keuffel & Esser slide rules, may have contributed in some small way to some of this data.
Kudos from Marketing to Engineering!!!! :thumbup:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rj7b2fjsvF4
I can't thank you enough for taking the time to disseminate all this information.
Someplace deep down inside, I'd like to imagine that my dad with his 14 Keuffel & Esser slide rules, may have contributed in some small way to some of this data.
Kudos from Marketing to Engineering!!!! :thumbup:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rj7b2fjsvF4
The CFL lamps vary greatly in quality. What wattage are you using? Around 15 watts is considered an equal to a 60. You could also put in a 100 watt equal as they are still only 25 watts or so.
LOL. They were definitely the ones who made everything happen. Thanks
I took a couple of photos of my table this evening using my old prime 50mm lens and no filters and no editing. This is a standard off the shelf LED industrial fixture. There are 100 foot candles in the center of the table (2X as bright as it should be) but in my option not too displeasing to the eye. This isn't the ideal table light (I don't like the large reflector which you can see on the reflection on the balls) but it is one of my working demo's I use for my job and readily available. I may add a dimmer and dim down to the recommended levels to see how much that reduces the reflection. As a reference the general standard for office lighting up till a couple of years ago was 50 foot candles.
At some Bob's recommendation I put the 100W/23W/5000K CFL bulbs (curlies) in my 4 fixture light over my Gold Crown IV. I have Tournament Blue cloth, will have English Green by this weekend if the weather cooperates.
Anyway, the bulbs light the place up, but not a lot more than my four regular 60W bulbs. Its just a different kind of light. After I get the English Green i'll see which one I like best.
DCP
I'm thinking about getting a light meter to see exactly how bad the problem is on a table I play on and I ran into this thread. Here is the current WPA spec on lighting for sanctioned tournaments:
In this thread https://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?417992&p=5447241 a lux level variation of over 30:1 (9000+ to 300) is reported (post 4). Maybe the measurement was wrong, but that sounds broken.
For reference, here are some light level recommendations.
![CropperCapture[278].png](https://forums.azbilliards.com/data/attachments/380/380907-4617b798d6a749db860a527f8ceb9184.jpg?hash=Rhe3mNanSd "CropperCapture[278].png")
I'm not sure why pool doesn't qualify as "Performance of very prolonged and exacting visual tasks".:smile: It seems to be just "Normal Office Work".
15. LIGHTS
The bed and rails of the table must receive at least 520 lux (48 footcandles) of light at every point. A screen or reflector configuration is advised so that the center of the table does not receive noticeably more lighting than the rails and the corners of the table. If the light fixture above the table may be moved aside (referee), the minimum height of the
fixture should be no lower than 40 inches [1.016 m] above the bed of the table. If the light fixture above the table is non-movable, the fixture should be no lower than 65 inches [1.65 m] above the bed of the table. The intensity of any directed light on the players at the table should not be blinding. Blinding light starts at 5000 lux (465 footcandles) direct view. The rest of the venue (bleachers, etc.) should receive at least 50 lux (5 footcandles) of light.
The bed and rails of the table must receive at least 520 lux (48 footcandles) of light at every point. A screen or reflector configuration is advised so that the center of the table does not receive noticeably more lighting than the rails and the corners of the table. If the light fixture above the table may be moved aside (referee), the minimum height of the
fixture should be no lower than 40 inches [1.016 m] above the bed of the table. If the light fixture above the table is non-movable, the fixture should be no lower than 65 inches [1.65 m] above the bed of the table. The intensity of any directed light on the players at the table should not be blinding. Blinding light starts at 5000 lux (465 footcandles) direct view. The rest of the venue (bleachers, etc.) should receive at least 50 lux (5 footcandles) of light.
In this thread https://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?417992&p=5447241 a lux level variation of over 30:1 (9000+ to 300) is reported (post 4). Maybe the measurement was wrong, but that sounds broken.
For reference, here are some light level recommendations.
I'm not sure why pool doesn't qualify as "Performance of very prolonged and exacting visual tasks".:smile: It seems to be just "Normal Office Work".
I got the meter. It was about $40 on Amazon. Maybe it is accurate -- it is not obviously flakey....
Here are the readings I got on one table I practice on -- spacing is every two diamonds, numbers are in lux:
162 -- 209 -- 148
324 -- 540 -- 320
417 -- 697 -- 379
306 -- 530 -- 288
148 -- 200 -- 136
As you can see, the center of the table is about four times brighter than the corner pockets. The fixture is three bulbs of undetermined output. I think it would help if they were spread out a little more lengthwise.
Note that the end rails are around a factor of four below the WPA spec of 520 lux. They do look quite dark.
Here are the readings I got on one table I practice on -- spacing is every two diamonds, numbers are in lux:
162 -- 209 -- 148
324 -- 540 -- 320
417 -- 697 -- 379
306 -- 530 -- 288
148 -- 200 -- 136
As you can see, the center of the table is about four times brighter than the corner pockets. The fixture is three bulbs of undetermined output. I think it would help if they were spread out a little more lengthwise.
Note that the end rails are around a factor of four below the WPA spec of 520 lux. They do look quite dark.
I’m interested in this meter. You think it works adequately? The pool hall where I play is very dim...pretty terrible actually. They seem to not believe it’s bad. Would be nice to prove it, in case that makes a difference lol.
KMRUNOUT
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Dr.Meter LX1330B Digital Illuminance/Light Meter, 0 - 200,000 Lux Luxmeter
I think it has a spec of +-3% plus five or ten counts. It seems to work OK. The most common use seems to be for home gardens and I do mean in the home. I think there are some cheaper models. I had to read the reviews to see how to get at the battery compartment -- the rubber bootie comes off.