Live Center

M

masonh

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
what do you guys think of cheap live centers vs. expsensive ones.is there any reason to buy the $100+ live centers for cue building ro are the cheaper ones good enough?
 
I'll take a tight cheap center over an expensive loose one.
When it's got to be the nuts, a dead center is more accurate than the best live center.
 
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my question is more are the live centers for $30 that are accurate to .003" good enough for most guys or do you feel the need for the $100 and up that are accurate to under .001"?

thanks for the reply
 
Dial Indicators

The live center can be perfect, but, if the shaft is out of line from the axis of the spindle or ways, it's useless.. How accrurate is the machine??

I've been reading a lot of the post about cuemaking.. I can't be one.. too expensive to run that business and I'm a mullet.. But, I never see anything about dial indicators.. Do you guys check runout ? or just poke the center in and cut.. Do you guys "sweep the chuck"?.. to check concentricity?
I'm not trying to "Get Smart".. I just don't know if these steps are done when making cues..
I've seen pump shafts "walk" out of the chuck when held at the end by a steady rest when the piece wasn't trued-up by Sweeping the Chuck.. That center only keeps the shaft from "walking out"..
 
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I have used fairly inexpensive live centers, and the main thing is, does it turn easily and true. I just bought a cheap one that had a long narrow center, carbide tipped. I thought it would be great for turning shafts, but it took alot of effort just to turn it by hand, and seemed to have divots in the bearing, as you turned it. It was junk, but I've had $20-$30 ones work awesome. I don't think the more expensive ones will make a better cue, as we're dealing with wood, something that moves and changes with humidity, etc. no matter how much the live center cost.
Dave
 
Personally, for most turning I do I would take a good live center over a dead center. No friction is a good thing. It's one thing turning aluminum and putting a few drops of oil on a dead center, but something I avoid turning wood. A few months back I bought a new MT3 Skoda at Enco on sale for $58. It is currently $74 which still good, way cheaper than MSC.

Troy
 
I have various centers, but the live centers I use the most are just the cheaper ones. They just have sealed bearings that are made in china, but they run true enough, and work pretty well for me. I don't usually have to worry about any major runout on that side of cue due to the centers being off when I use those. Mine see alot of use, because I use them for everything, so eventually a bit of play will take place as they wear over time, but By the time that happens they are usually scarred really bad, and tarnished up beyond any reasonable amount of cleaning, so in need of replacement for precise work anyhow. They are still good for repair, and general utility work after that though. One nice thing is they are really smooth, and I haven't had a problems with trash getting into the bearings, and tightening them up over time. They are only toss aways in My mind though, but for the price, I get more then My $'s worth out of them in the long run.

Greg
 
It doesn't matter what it costs if it is dead nuts accurate and it doesn't matter what it costs if it is innaccurate.

If you are trying to turn accurately you will be turning between centers and if they aren't accurate neither is your work.

Personally I have found that you are most likely to get the best center for the least money if you buy Skoda. The asian imports can be off .003 or more then you need to buy another.
 
I agree with Paul, I have many live centers. New and vintage, import and USA. Never spent that much money on them. With that said I always reach for the Skoda or a vintage Grand (made in Germany). I also like Royal, there expensive but somtimes you can get them used for a good price.

-Jason
 
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