Look like a pretty Big draw shot.

mr3cushion

mr3cushion

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From the Billiard Artistic (Trick Shot) Finals, Big draw shot off the ball first, almost 2 lengths the table.

In this draw shot, the player does Not contact the long cushion after contacting the OB. A direct draw back to the short rail from which He started.

 
tomatoshooter said:
Does he not need to touch 3 cushions?
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There are diagrams of all the shots in the competition on the CIBA website at:
The shot in the video is F4. It is listed as a two or three cushion shot. The nominal pattern is ball-long-short-long but ball-short-long as in the video is also permitted. Any cushion at the end is irrelevant.

There are some shots in the competition that do not require any cushion at all.
 
One thing I've discovered about my lame back spin and long draw shots in general is the running english gets the ball going much more than the backspin alone. Also there seems to be that <fouette> effect that Dr. Dave brought up. Seems it allows the stick to get off the ball better than "as low as possible" - more stick speed, less miscue.
 
mr3cushion said:
From the Billiard Artistic (Trick Shot) Finals, Big draw shot off the ball first, almost 2 lengths the table.

In this draw shot, the player does Not contact the long cushion after contacting the OB. A direct draw back to the short rail from which He started.

Click to expand...
This shot would not count for a point in Three Cushion billiards. But it looks damn good anyway!
 
jay helfert said:
This shot would not count for a point in Three Cushion billiards. But it looks damn good anyway!
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Hi Jay, in this event several of the Artistic shots do not require 3 cushions or more. But, some do.

The Draw shot in the video is more difficult directly off the OB than contacting the long rail it lies on after OB contact.
 
straightline said:
One thing I've discovered about my lame back spin and long draw shots in general is the running english gets the ball going much more than the backspin alone. Also there seems to be that <fouette> effect that Dr. Dave brought up. Seems it allows the stick to get off the ball better than "as low as possible" - more stick speed, less miscue.
Click to expand...
another HUGEEEE factor is the equipment you are playing on. Dirty/old cloth is extremely hard to draw on. When i go from a bar table to a clean pool hall, the ball draws like the table is ice
 
skiergd011013 said:
another HUGEEEE factor is the equipment you are playing on. Dirty/old cloth is extremely hard to draw on. When i go from a bar table to a clean pool hall, the ball draws like the table is ice
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Does that cloth look like it hasn't been beat on for a week or so?
 
straightline said:
One thing I've discovered about my lame back spin and long draw shots in general is the running english gets the ball going much more than the backspin alone. Also there seems to be that <fouette> effect that Dr. Dave brought up. Seems it allows the stick to get off the ball better than "as low as possible" - more stick speed, less miscue.
Click to expand...

Yes because that spin speeds up the cueball off the cusion.
It's a bit of a pet peeve for me counting that as part of the draw shot distance, since you are adding spin to make it go further. I think a true draw shot skill is center ball, no spin, no going off the rails with side spin to speed up the cue ball. Basically, if you had a 50-foot-long table, how far back can you draw it back without touching a rail. Like the opposite of a lag shot but harder, just up and down the table.
 
hang-the-9 said:
Yes because that spin speeds up the cueball off the cusion.
It's a bit of a pet peeve for me counting that as part of the draw shot distance, since you are adding spin to make it go further. I think a true draw shot skill is center ball, no spin, no going off the rails with side spin to speed up the cue ball. Basically, if you had a 50-foot-long table, how far back can you draw it back without touching a rail. Like the opposite of a lag shot but harder, just up and down the table.
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Hang, if you click to 0:14 of video, you can see the guy is aiming extreme 6 O'clock English, No side spin.
He does Not contact the long rail right after the OB!
 
skiergd011013 said:
another HUGEEEE factor is the equipment you are playing on. Dirty/old cloth is extremely hard to draw on. When i go from a bar table to a clean pool hall, the ball draws like the table is ice
Click to expand...
Sadly we don't have rooms anymore; just bars. The novice traffic will degrade new cloth to worn cloth in a matter of weeks. The real problem with the cloth though is that no one bothers to clean it.

hang-the-9 said:
Yes because that spin speeds up the cueball off the cusion.
It's a bit of a pet peeve for me counting that as part of the draw shot distance, since you are adding spin to make it go further. I think a true draw shot skill is center ball, no spin, no going off the rails with side spin to speed up the cue ball. Basically, if you had a 50-foot-long table, how far back can you draw it back without touching a rail. Like the opposite of a lag shot but harder, just up and down the table.
Click to expand...
The english will still aid before cushion contact by grabbing the object ball without killing back spin. I'd like to see 50 foot driving ranges too. The stroke workout would be invaluable.

mr3cushion said:
Hang, if you click to 0:14 of video, you can see the guy is aiming extreme 6 O'clock English, No side spin.
He does Not contact the long rail right after the OB!
Click to expand...
True but the ball breaks sharply right, off the top rail.
 
straightline said:
Sadly we don't have rooms anymore; just bars. The novice traffic will degrade new cloth to worn cloth in a matter of weeks. The real problem with the cloth though is that no one bothers to clean it.


The english will still aid before cushion contact by grabbing the object ball without killing back spin. I'd like to see 50 foot driving ranges too. The stroke workout would be invaluable.


True but the ball breaks sharply right, off the top rail.
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I'd like to walk on the Moon!

The CB breaks because the angle/speed it contacted the short rail.
 
mr3cushion said:
I'd like to walk on the Moon!

The CB breaks because the angle/speed it contacted the short rail.
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Not to argue with your billiards expertise but the exit angle right at the first rail is two or more times the angle of incidence. That's well before any bend would take effect.
 
straightline said:
Not to argue with your billiards expertise but the exit angle right at the first rail is two or more times the angle of incidence. That's well before any bend would take effect.
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Believe what You see, or don't. If you don't understand or accept how the player addressed the CB and contacted it, what can I say.

Do you think players of this caliber would aim at the CB at one spot and actually hit it in another?
 
mr3cushion said:
Believe what You see, or don't. If you don't understand or accept how the player addressed the CB and contacted it, what can I say.

Do you think players of this caliber would aim at the CB at one spot and actually hit it in another?
Click to expand...
Well yes. The video doesn't embellish. Players at all levels become error prone when the stakes become the priority. Besides, I don't think that shot works without the added kick on the top (shooter side) cushion.
 
straightline said:
Well yes. The video doesn't embellish. Players at all levels become error prone when the stakes become the priority. Besides, I don't think that shot works without the added kick on the top (shooter side) cushion.
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The CB took the 'Natural angle' with No English.

The CB contacted the short rail at 1.5 diamonds from the corner and contacted the long rail at 1.5 diamonds from the corner, a 45-degree angle.
 
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