Looking for a CNC machine ...

Well ... I decided to buy a new Mini-Raptor 36 and do the outfitting of stepper motors and controller myself.
Really need something like that to start cutting custom tapered shafts again.
I am thinking I can fit it with a 3/4" thick plywood floor but if that dont work out I can buy a slotted aluminum floor for it later.

Willee
 
Hey Willee! Is the 36 going to give you enough travel? I think the 36 only has something like 30-31 inches of travel on the X. Be a tight bed to fit the head and tail onto too. George makes a 42 that might work for ya. Just something to think about.
Have a good one!
 
Yes it will be tight but ... I think it should be long enough ... 30" actual cutting length.
I can make the bed any length to support the "A" axis head and tail stocks.
As long as the cutter will move a full 30" to profile shafts and taper butts it should work out.

The 42" model has a two week wait time and I needed the machine yesterday ... LOL.
 
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Yes it will be tight but ... I think it should be long enough ... 30" actual cutting length.
I can make the bed any length to support the "A" axis head and tail stocks.
As long as the cutter will move a full 30" to profile shafts and taper butts it should work out.

The 42" model has a two week wait time and I needed the machine yesterday ... LOL.

I like this thinking. No point wasting travel on the fixture area.
All the best in your new venture.
Neil
 
I like this thinking. No point wasting travel on the fixture area.
All the best in your new venture.
Neil


After getting the 36" Mini-Raptor and checking its travel ... my thinking was flawed.
I now think the 48" model would have been the better choice for a cue making CNC machine.

Willee
 
After getting the 36" Mini-Raptor and checking its travel ... my thinking was flawed.

I now think the 48" model would have been the better choice for a cue making CNC machine.



Willee


Can you return it and trade up to the 48" model. A little return hassle now might be better than years of travel limitation hassle.
 
Can you return it and trade up to the 48" model. A little return hassle now might be better than years of travel limitation hassle.

There is no difference between the two other than the side rail length and ball screw rod. So exchanging then and paying the difference would save a lot on shipping.

Willee
 
There is no difference between the two other than the side rail length and ball screw rod. So exchanging then and paying the difference would save a lot on shipping.



Willee


Imo opinion, do it now before you get the machine set up:)

How is the rigidity of this machine? Do you think it's in the realm of industrial quality or still hobby quality?
 
I also saw on the site the components are squared up at the factory and then all pinned in place. Did that seem to work out well in your estimation?
 
I also saw on the site the components are squared up at the factory and then all pinned in place. Did that seem to work out well in your estimation?


Actually, they have either machined pockets or locating pins.

I don't think the machines are assembled, squared up, and then pinned before disassembly. The parts are machined such that, when assembled, the machine is pretty square. I know that I've not needed to do anything special to straighten mine up.


Royce
 
Actually, they have either machined pockets or locating pins.

I don't think the machines are assembled, squared up, and then pinned before disassembly. The parts are machined such that, when assembled, the machine is pretty square. I know that I've not needed to do anything special to straighten mine up.


Royce

Hi Royce, Thanks.

Every part only goes in one spot. Every mounting area is machined. Every important part has a pin or pocket to sit in.
Machine even now have more detail machining for a straight machine right out of the box than the one Royce has. All larger machine have an custom aluminum profile with ledge now for rail to sit and be level .
The Mini Raptor does not have the same profile, so rails will need to be adjusted instead of just bolting then in spot.
Adjusting ballscrew ends and z axis to table is about all adjusting you need to do on all other machines.
I made the Mini Raptor for bulk sale which was great , there is a few left that i made extra.
 
What would you consider industrial quality differ from hobby quality?

I guess it really depends on the application and intended use.

I'm not an expert, but I do have a few years of machine shop experience. I see the biggest difference between industrial machinery and hobby type machinery being the mass and rigidity of the machine. Mass and rigidity help everything from the cutting capacity of the machine to the vibration of the machine and cut quality even on very low cutting loads. Heavy steel and cast iron vs aluminum.

Another difference is in the design. An industrial machine will probably have most or all of its design bugs worked out through the years. A hobby type machine the builder might have only made 5 machines in his life. He might not have the customer base to know what needs improvement, etc.

On a cnc of this class, I can see possible issues with for example the bearings that hold the lead screw. Are they properly designed to eliminate backlash, and still account for thermal expansion? How was the bearing journal on the end of the leadscrew machined? Does the entire system flex when the axes are moved? If so, how much, etc. Are the servos/steppers attached with a coupling system that allows for some misalignment? Little details like these add up. I bought a cnc saw machine of a hobby class from here, and boy, what a piece of sh!t that was!

I'm not putting down your machine, please don't take this that way. In fact, it looks really well done from the pictures I've seen on your site. And I like the forum setup you have, so people can check things out and you can update info there.

In the end, this is a 2K to 3K USD machine depending on the options it looks like. Something has to be different than a machine that might cost 25K USD.
 
To answer your questions.
low cutting loads has to do with complete machine. not just what frame is made of.

As for design , the machines as i have been told a lot of times, they are completely over engineered , stuff you will not see on other machine. You can make a machine stronger with design. if you look at details of design you will see. 5 machines are sold a week if not more and machines have advanced from the 8 years of making them where there is nothing more to change.

I have worked in linear and engineers for over 20 years and that is all i do.
Machines use Ballscrews and not Leadscrews. Yes the bearings are double row angular contact and fixed end. They have a set pre load from factory. Thermal expantion has to do with other end of ballscrew, and yes it is a free end bearing not fixed to anything. Ballscrew ends are machine and polished for lite press fit. The frames do not flex for what they are design to do. Putting a 1000 pound steel block on machine, would cause problems . Yes all couplings are flexible jaw coupling, you would only use rigid coupling on a small ballscrew. Some company's use rigid coupling to hold ballscrew and save money on bearings.

No Problem , i don't think you are putting down the machines.

Price of machines have nothing to do with how good they are. I have my prices so i can sell in high volume. If i only sold one or 2 machines a week i would never be able to continue at the prices.
I try to give people what they pay for and not double the price of what they are worth.
I could sell machines easily for double what i do and have been told that many times.
Funny thing is, if i just double the price , most people would say the machines are far better.

The Mini Raptor was sold at the price as advanced sale. Over 80 where sold in 3 weeks and all shipped out in around a month. I would not be able to sell them again for that low price. Once the last couple are sold that i made extra i don't know yet when they will be for sale again .

Another machine, is the Predator, Only time i make them is when i get an order from large company in the USA for their factory . Some people have waited a year to buy one, also one person on this forum waited that long to buy. Thats how i found this forum.

My main business is the RAPTOR 24/30 , takes all machining time almost to keep up from 4 machine shops having to do parts of the machines .

Again price of machine has nothing to do with how good it is. I see machines with skate bearings and rack and pinion selling for double what i sell for.
You have to look at details on the machine before you buy any.

More could be done to make the machines even better, but the extra cost and small gain is not worth it if trying to keep prices down .

Same being. i see pool cues at walmart for 14.99$ . what would be the difference from a more expensive one?
 
George, your machines are the nuts i've been running mine for over a year now with no problems at all....i'm doing phenomenal point work and inlay work with your machine....OH i will be ordering another soon!!:dance::welcome:

IT DON'T GET MUCH BETTER.
 
George, your machines are the nuts i've been running mine for over a year now with no problems at all....i'm doing phenomenal point work and inlay work with your machine....OH i will be ordering another soon!!:dance::welcome:

IT DON'T GET MUCH BETTER.

Hi Sly thanks.I with a couple people are now starting complete line of machines for pool cues .
 
Stop talking about them and lets see them :) I can't wait to see this lathe

Lol , yes lots of work designing new part before getting made.
But they will be very soon. Finding 2 chucks lightweight with 1.5 thru hole has been a little hard in 5 inch .
 
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