Looking for a cuemaker to help with an idea

T

TexasLawDog

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http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=209757&page=2

In that thread, I made a suggestion to a man looking for an ebony shaft strickly for breaking.

My suggestion is to have an aluminum shaft made and to make for a lighter shaft to have the thicker end bored out in a cone shape (mid-way through the shaft) to keep the integrity and save on weight.

As a cuemaker what are your thoughs on a light weight aluminum shaft made for breaking only?

Is it possible?

Advantages/disadvantages?

Labor cost? (I've priced 36" bar stock aluminum @ $120.00)
 
TexasLawDog said:
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=209757&page=2

In that thread, I made a suggestion to a man looking for an ebony shaft strickly for breaking.

My suggestion is to have an aluminum shaft made and to make for a lighter shaft to have the thicker end bored out in a cone shape (mid-way through the shaft) to keep the integrity and save on weight.

As a cuemaker what are your thoughs on a light weight aluminum shaft made for breaking only?

Is it possible?

Advantages/disadvantages?

Labor cost? (I've priced 36" bar stock aluminum @ $120.00)
Click to expand...

have you given any thought to what you are going to do with it after you bend it.

bill
 
TexasLawDog said:
My suggestion is to have an aluminum shaft made and to make for a lighter shaft to have the thicker end bored out in a cone shape (mid-way through the shaft) to keep the integrity and save on weight.

As a cuemaker what are your thoughs on a light weight aluminum shaft made for breaking only?
Click to expand...

You can probably go to Kmart and buy one with the butt for $39 or less...
 
A highschool kid made an aluninum shaft in metal shop. IT WEIGHED 2 LB. I think it would have to be hollow, all of the way through...JER
 
I know it's going to be heavy, but I would like to not sacrafice the integrity of it for weight saving.

I have no clue what the actual weight would be.
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
A highschool kid made an aluninum shaft in metal shop. IT WEIGHED 2 LB. I think it would have to be hollow, all of the way through...JER
Click to expand...

Thats what I'm scared of. If done properly I can see the thick part being hollow tapering down to a point then a solid part being the thinest part of the shaft.

A nice hard poly insert to hold the female end of the joint.

It would be an experiment with ID/OD of the hollow part.
 
if you look around there were complete aluminum shaft and butt combos made many yrs ago a friend i know has one you might find one of those cheaper than having one made
 
Trent said:
if you look around there were complete aluminum shaft and butt combos made many yrs ago a friend i know has one you might find one of those cheaper than having one made
Click to expand...

I figured that the idea had already been done, but with searching I couldn't find much.

Thanks for the info Trent!
 
My suggestion is to have an aluminum shaft made and to make for a lighter shaft to have the thicker end bored out in a cone shape (mid-way through the shaft) .


I can't imagine a tool that could perform this task. How do you bore out the center to get a "CONE SHAPE" hole. Can anyone shed some light on this procedure?...JER
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
My suggestion is to have an aluminum shaft made and to make for a lighter shaft to have the thicker end bored out in a cone shape (mid-way through the shaft) .


I can't imagine a tool that could perform this task. How do you bore out the center to get a "CONE SHAPE" hole. Can anyone shed some light on this procedure?...JER
Click to expand...

Ive never done this it just crossed my mind. What if your cariage was spring loaded like the cue smith and then you had it run off your taper bars. Wouldnt that give you a cone shape????
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
My suggestion is to have an aluminum shaft made and to make for a lighter shaft to have the thicker end bored out in a cone shape (mid-way through the shaft) .


I can't imagine a tool that could perform this task. How do you bore out the center to get a "CONE SHAPE" hole. Can anyone shed some light on this procedure?...JER
Click to expand...

Special made taper drill bit? I have heard of cue maker have taper forearm and using special made taper drill bit for coring. Only if he want to spend that kind of money.
 
Mr Hoppe said:
You can probably go to Kmart and buy one with the butt for $39 or less...
Click to expand...

This is true, even Kmart or Walmart had something similar, and they also had a poly type insert in them I believe. I've seen a few league players with these cues, and It does seem like they used them to break with. I have no idea how effective they were for that though.
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
I can't imagine a tool that could perform this task. How do you bore out the center to get a "CONE SHAPE" hole. Can anyone shed some light on this procedure?...JER
Click to expand...

Not boring, but step drill then a tapered reamer perhaps .... not that I think this is a good idea .... the PINGGGGGGGGGGG would drive people nuts (OK, it would drive me nuts :eek: )

http://www.newmantools.com/reamer/

Another option, although more limited in range, would be to feed the compound.

Dave

PS I am not a cuemaker, but have made lots of holes in things, some tapered.
 
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You'd have to start with a tube, then reduce the size while spinning it.
Or have a mandrel to force it on...
 
RBC said:
Casting or forging would be the only way.

And I'm pretty sure you would hate it.
Click to expand...

I agree with your second line, but not with the first line. I believe Easton would also disagree.

http://www.answers.com/topic/easton-sports-inc

They are the world leader in aluminum tubing in sports applications (arrows, ski poles, golf shafts for a while, bats, etc.).

Dave

<edit> Here is an Easton aluminum putter shaft : http://thegolfcoastonline.com/item.asp?cID=0&PID=663
Unfortunately it is a bit small for a cue shaft with a tip od of 0.370" and a butt od of 0.600", but it is obvious from this that they could draw an aluminum tube with a 13mm tip od and a 0.850" butt (joint) od if they desired.
 
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