Because you're hitting a sphere, the forces on the tip are already WILDLY eccentric. If anything, the idea of a slanted ferrule end would be to make the forces LESS eccentric (on the tip itself).
These are complex issues that I don't think can be answered at first thought (even by engineers). If someone had the right equipment and the right curiosity it would be interesting to see what might come of testing it. The only costs would be some time and some ferrules and tips.
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I didn't say eccentric....I said concentric.....basically on all shots that are within the miscue limit are going to make contact with the center of the leather tip. Thats why it has a radius.....so when you strike the CB the forces are centered and spread evenly through the tip.
I don't know how many tips I've seen that were just put on and not faced off properly and as soon as the player miscues POP the tip flies off......angular forces caused it to pop off as opposed to a centered force.
The CB is a sphere and the cue stick tip has a radius so that it can make optimum contact when striking the CB, b/c of the radius of ball/tip you can get a centered tip hit when out on the edges of the ball, If the tip were flat you would sometimes be making contact with the tips outer sides which would increase miscues.
There is NO benefit to having a ferrule with an angular face, but there would be definate weakening of the joining area b/t tip/ferrule.
The tip would eventually fall off....BELIEVE ME IF THAT WOULD HAVE A BENEFIT AT ALL SOMEONE WOULD HAVE DONE IT ALREADY!!!
The only angular joints on a cue are those found in full splice, half splice, butterfly cues. But these splices are always concentric, if there is one on "that" side then there is another on the "other" side to balance it out.
The idea that an angled tip/ferrule joining surface thats not square with the center line of the cue could have any kind of benefit is extremely far fetched. Not to mention that it would make changing the tip a real big PIA unless you have a milling machine.
The tip would still have the same radius as normal.....just one side of the shoulder of the tip would be thinner than the other side, but the tip of the tip wouldn't change......so what would be the point at all of doing that anyway?
There is none.....its a preposterous idea
Lastly the idea that it would only cost some time/ferrules and tips is also preposterous....what about the sensing equipment for the supposed tests, much less a repeatable system for delivering the shot the same way everytime, and I'm sure you would want to film the results with a high speed camera.
It would not be cheap to test at all......but it doesn't matter b/c it would be a pointless exercise.
And regarding draw and "scooping"...it could be possible that the SLIGHTEST bit of lift (much less than what would be needed to actually lift the ball) might allow for more spin for a given speed of hit--because of less frictional resistance to spin (because of a lower "normal" force)
Ok well like I said you cant upstroke on a draw shot b/c of the perimeters of the table and rails. You can upstroke somewhat on follow shots tho esp when the CB is near to the rail (NO I am not recommending doing that ever)
Any amount of upward angular force that you could give the CB while attempting a draw shot would cause the CB to HOP....you wouldn't be able to control your shot in an efficient manner.
You deduce that you will get more spin b/c of less frictional resistance to spin since the CB will be airborne for an arbitrary period. Well I'm here to tell you that you would NOT. First the forces of momentum are now divided. Instead of delivering the energy in a linear fashion, the energy will be partially angular and partially linear. So while total "power" was not lost on the shot, the quantitative parts of "power" :CB velocity and the spin applied to it will be changed.
First the velocity of the CB will have 2 distinct values as it was struck by an angular force. These two values will each be lessened as they share the energy from the hit to attain the result.
The CB will not go down table as fast, and the spin will be LESS!!!!!
Two reasons: 1)Linear velocitys energy quotient is shared by angular velocity of CB b/c of its attaining flight and bouncing thereafter, whatever momentum could have been saved by the absence of friction in the air will be lost to the bouncing of the CB when it returns from flight.
2) The Spin will be less b/c there will be less FRICTION to keep the CB in place as the stroke is applied. This is why you can get maximum spin jacking up to 90º and shooting a masse'......b/c the CB becomes trapped for an instant and can not roll forward, it is for a lack of better terms "pinched" out. The tip grabs the surface of the ball and due to the pressure b/t the tip/ball/table surface and makes it rotate reverse, once the spin starts to initiate forward motion will occur to the CB.
Now if we shot pool on telfon coated Ice you couldn't really get any kind of backspin at all since there would not be enough friction to keep the ball stationary long enough for the spin to be applied......the ball would just react too fast to forward motion.
For whatever reason players rationalize that less friction somehow always means more spin on the CB b/c its not hampered by the extra rotation friction....THIS IS NOT THE CASE (at least not always and def not in the situation we are talking about)
When you put on new cloth the ball is easy to draw right?......when it gets old and slick its not so easy to draw is it? What I have explained above is WHY
Everything in the game is like it is for a reason. Tip/ferrule bonding surfaces are square and not angular b/c its STRONGER, more concentric, and you get a more even dispersion of energy of the hit.
Cues are straight (typically) b/c thats the most efficient design for propelling a CB in all the diff ways we do. You can complete EVERY shot on a pool table with a normal playing cue. All this talk about more spin and bla bla bla....I say WHAT FOR!!!! A decent normal cue puts more than enough spin for whatever spin quantity that shot calls for.
Whats a cue that puts more spin on the ball do for you as a player? When a normal cue puts plenty of spin and then some? Whats the point? Most can't control what little spin they get already, now we want to magnify it?
LD shafts are the rage b/c of the lessor amount of compensation for squirt etc.....not b/c they spin the ball better.
Its one thing to develop a jump cue, for aiding in that type of shot as it just makes the tool easier to handle when jacked up.......I see your idea of the "crooked" shaft for "overspin" (even tho it wouldn't work) as nothing but a gimmick idea for people looking to buy a better game instead of working to get a better game.....
go find an engineer that believes a non concentric angled bond on the tip would be beneficial and I'll show you a guy that got his Diploma from the cracker jack box.....
just like BHE doesn't put any more spin than a normal stroke making contact at the same english mark.....its not like the tip Sticks to the CB, and that would be the only way that would work is if the tip did stick longer, and it don't.....tho it is possible that it can reduce deflection using BHE as the tip is cutting across the ball as opposed to the tip penetrating directly inline and through the CB in relation to the shot. No matter the cueing angle (left to right) you come in to that particular english on the CB your still going to be hitting the same quantity of surface area so long as its a good hit and not a miscue, doesn't matter if its BHE or if your dropping in with your bridge centered on the english you wish to apply.
The only reason that the deflection can be lessened is that the cue stick using BHE is not aligned through the shot, so the cueball is out of the way very quickly....the CB and stick in BHE have two differient VECTORS.......the way I shoot (centering my bridge and dropping in on the intended english, no pivoting) my stick and CB's vector are generally the same.
-Grey Ghost-
