Fixed it.CF shafts have the advantage of [getting no dents when I drag the balls down the table].

One additional positive I find with CF [but really low deflection in general] is the amount of forgiveness they have for an imperfect stroke.
-td
Fixed it.CF shafts have the advantage of [getting no dents when I drag the balls down the table].
I meant what's the difference in the angle of the cue compared with the direction to the target? If there's a difference, they won't produce the same outcome. This should be obvious.You tell me what the difference is. Actually, get on the table with the CB on the spot. Do it both ways - parallel offset and angled offset. Set up CCB aimed at the middle diamond on the end rail. Strike the ball. If you have a straight stroke, it should hit the middle diamond and come straight back.
#2: Set up CCB at the middle diamond on the end rail. Then parallel shift 1/2 tip left with a normal tip size of 12.5 to 13mm. Strike the shot. Where does the CB strike the end rail before rebounding back with English taking affect?
#3: Set up CCB at the middle diamond on the end rail. Then pivot the cue with the backhand 1/2 tip to the left. With that slight angle strike the CB. Where does the CB strike the end rail before rebounding back with English taking affect?
This isn't just for PJ. You're all welcome to do it and see if anything is different.
Is there a difference? Where?
Hence why we've never agreed on very much of anything. You play mental pool and 2D drawings instead of getting on the table and actually striking balls different ways or seeing CB/OB alignments for aiming in different ways.I meant what's the difference in the angle of the cue compared with the direction to the target? If there's a difference, they won't produce the same outcome. This should be obvious.
pj
chgo
But you're unable to describe the difference.The same outcome is produced in one respect but not in another.
I meant what's the difference in the angle of the cue compared with the direction to the target? If there's a difference, they won't produce the same outcome. This should be obvious.
Of course I can describe it as well as demonstrate it which is what I want you to do. I learned a long, long time agoBut you're unable to describe the difference.
pj
chgo
That guy always beats up the subject proving that he's right when he's usually far from it. Always coming up with data that's his data. I call bullshitOf course I can describe it as well as demonstrate it which is what I want you to do. I learned a long, long time ago
that handing something on a silver platter to you is not the way to go which is then turned into wordsmithing as proven right now. Dig it out of the Simonis with the instructions I gave earlier. Are you unable to get on a table? I thought you had one right where you live. Yes? No?
Of course I can describe it as well as demonstrate it which is what I want you to do. I learned a long, long time ago
that handing something on a silver platter to you is not the way to go which is then turned into wordsmithing as proven right now. Dig it out of the Simonis with the instructions I gave earlier. Are you unable to get on a table? I thought you had one right where you live. Yes? No?
That guy always beats up the subject proving that he's right when he's usually far from it. Always coming up with data that's his data. I call bullshit
I looked at this video- I personally like 12.75 MM tip diameter- the difference between a Predator Revor and a cheap Players plain maple shaft with tip diameters in that range seems very small in terms of deflection- a very experienced player should be able to manage either shaft with no trouble at all.For those who want to see clear visual examples of the differences (or easily measure differences for any cues on your own), see:
That guy who knows very little what top players do and plays average but has been buffaloing members of pool forums for almost 30 years. Or at least trying to.That guy always beats up the subject proving that he's right when he's usually far from it. Always coming up with data that's his data. I call bullshit
It was an interesting shaft comparison video. But you should learn how to read and play pool in various ways besides the way you do - might learn something and play better. (But we all know that's impossible)Both of you should watch Dr. Dave's video posted above - might learn something (anything's possible).
pj
chgo
Get Efren to explain Low Deflection, he will tell you he gets lucky..I looked at this video- I personally like 12.75 MM tip diameter- the difference between a Predator Revor and a cheap Players plain maple shaft with tip diameters in that range seems very small in terms of deflection- a very experienced player should be able to manage either shaft with no trouble at all.
For the beginner- yes, start them out with CF shaft and be done with it! No arguments here from me.
It is human nature to look for any edge possible via technology when it comes to sports equipment - corporate marketing seizes upon our own mind games - that is what marketing is designed to accomplish - get into your mind to get into your wallet. So, I say, no one is exactly correct- each person should settle on their highest comfort level, wallet withstanding.![]()
If you're a good aimer the small difference in precision might not matter for most shots/players - but it can shorten the learning curve for less experienced players and I suspect has some lasting value for anybody....if I play with and have adjusted to a non LD shaft, how does an expensive LD shaft help me.
That's counterintuitive to me. Lower deflection shafts have pivot points farther from normal bridge lengths, so the "automatic squirt correction" for an inaccurate stroke is usually worse. Do you have a longer-than-average bridge length?One additional positive I find with CF [but really low deflection in general] is the amount of forgiveness they have for an imperfect stroke.
Personally have tried CF and low deflection wood shafts- I have not seen much difference in aiming from a regular maple shaft - some may feel different. It is an individual thing, and most people in life follow the herd anyhow, and a few get paid to lead the herd in a certain direction. I tend to make my own decisions about things based on my personal knowledge or experience.
For me, shaft tip, ferrule, shaft diameter, shaft taper, and shaft weight are the main concerns, as long as it is straight - so I sort of like being traditional with plain wood shafts that fit my liking.
Almost every sport is dominated by corporate marketers who need to hype equipment changes - supposedly backed by "scientific" facts- in order to generate new revenue streams. As for pool- the more I play the game after 60 years of doing so- the more I realize that my pool cue is probably 5 % of my game success - not much more than that.
I enjoy cues, because I enjoy cues- that simple- but I actually hate trying to turn a passion into a science- it spoils everything for me that I love about the game!
All my equipment info is here:This topic, has gone on for ages. Deflection is something you get use to, no matter what type of shaft you use.
Dr dave, video is great to see the difference in the varying amounts deflection. Simple to expensive. I still think, if you play with one shaft, for long enough. You will learn to use it, no matter what is it. And that will improve your game.
I agree with you, now you got it, stick with it, give it a couple months, then see. Which brand of carbon shaft, have you got?