Magic Eraser???

Johnnyz86 said:
what advantages does magic eraser have over sand paper? what grit is it comparable to?

and if anyone knows, what grit are both of q-wiz's sides? q-wiz seems like washable long lasting sand paper.
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This is a ME, it feels like the rough side of a sponger:

magic20eraser.jpg


as far as what grit it is, I don't know, but comparing it to sandpaper, first off, sandpaper doesn't have any sort of cleaning agent. Sandpaper wouldn't clean the shaft anywhere close to what the ME can do, use the search button and search ME, someone on here had before and after pictures of cleaning a cue they bought that had red chalk stain on it. It damn near looks like it was new. As for the q-wiz, the darker side feels about 1500 grit, and the lighter side feels like a piece of leather for burnishing rather than sandpaper.


found the thread: http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=61661
 
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hm my qwiz "polish side" seems like 1000 grit and definitely took off some stuff, with the dark side feeling much coarser taking off a lot *shrug*

i thought magic eraser's didn't have any cleaning agent and was just a type of material. where can i find magic eraser's locally? grocery store? home depot?
 
Johnnyz86 said:
hm my qwiz "polish side" seems like 1000 grit and definitely took off some stuff, with the dark side feeling much coarser taking off a lot *shrug*

i thought magic eraser's didn't have any cleaning agent and was just a type of material. where can i find magic eraser's locally? grocery store? home depot?
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After reading more on the ME, I guess it doesn't have any sort of cleaning agent in it. According to wiki,

wikipedia said:
Melamine foam is a foam-like material consisting of a formaldehyde-melamine-sodium bisulfite copolymer.

The foam is manufactured in Germany by BASF under the name "Basotect". It has been used for over 20 years as insulation for pipes and ductwork, and has a long history as a soundproofing material for studios, sounds stages, auditoriums, and the like. The low smoke and flame properties of melamine foam prevent it from being a fire hazard[citation needed].

In the early 21st century it was discovered that melamine foam was an effective abrasive cleaner. The open cell foam is microporous and its polymeric substance is extremely hard, so that when used for cleaning it works like extremely fine sandpaper, getting into tiny grooves and pits in the object being cleaned. On a larger scale the material feels soft. Because the bubbles interconnect, its structure is more like a maze of fibreglass strands than like the array of separate bubbles in, for example, styrofoam.

Rubbing with slightly moistened foam may remove otherwise "uncleanable" external markings from surfaces. For example, it can remove crayon, magic marker, and grease from painted walls, wood finishings, plastic-adhering paints from treated wooden tables, adhesive residue, and grime from hub caps[citation needed]. The surface being cleaned may be finely scratched if not hard. The foam wears away, rather like a pencil eraser.

Melamine foam for cleaning uses is supplied by several companies under brand names such as Coralite Ultimate Sponge, or as a generic product sometimes described as a "dirt eraser". The Procter & Gamble version, Mr. Clean "Magic Eraser", was awarded the Electrical Audio Intern's Corner "Key Buy" award in 2003.
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Once again I fail :o I always thought it had cleaning agent in it. ME could be found at the cleaning aisle of your local grocery store. I take it, because the fiber in the melamine can get between the pores of the shaft, it can take out what normal sandpaper could get out in the micro pores of the wood. As for the q-wiz, yeah, it takes stuff off my cue as well. I like it a lot though, but I like my porper shaft polisher better
 
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one warning to add

When useing Magic eraser you just add water to the sponge .....Water can damage your shaft........Your shaft is very dry.......hard rock Maple shafts warp with TOO much water on them.....Clean your shaft and give it a couple of days to dry before you use it. If you use it while its still wet you may pound a warp into it by playing with it..
Terry
 
A lot of people say using denature alcohol to soften it rather than using water could keep a lot of moisture out of the shaft while cleaning with the ME.
 
Me personal method is this:

1. Clean the Shaft with Denatured Alcohol and let dry a couple minutes.
2. Remove any blueing with Magic Eraser.
3. Clean once more with D.A. and let dry.
4. Apply generous amounts of Butcher's Wax, let dry, then buff the s**t out of it.

Everyone asks why my Shafts never exhibit any blueing and I explain the process above.
 
I've been here a while I guess...I'm familiar with posts about:

Magic Eraser
860HR
Funnygif/pic thread
Preshot routines
Burnishing
and cuetable layouts...

I use Mr. Clean "Super strength" Magic Eraser, no water...cleans the cues off wonderfully. Then I buff the cue with my rotary tool...But that's probably more than you need. lol
 
While the ME does not have any cleaning agents in it, it does have magic in it, hence the name.

I had scuff marks on my stair facings that wouldn't come off with anything. Orange cleaners, comet, baking soda paste, nothing. One ME with all the water squeezed out and they were gone as easy as if I were wiping up grease off the kitchen counter. Freakin' magic, I tell ya.
 
Pantyhose

Ok, before you laugh too much... While in the Marines I learned a little trick. If it was inspection day and you were wearing your spit shine boots, which you have hours of spit and buffing in, you were devastated if you got a little scuff. The solution was a quick 5 second buff with a piece of pantyhose. I carried a little piece in my pocket every time I wore my spit shined boots.

So after reading this thread I was thinking that pantyhose may make a nice buffer for a cue shaft. I think I may be on to something. I keep my shafts and hands clean while I play so they only need a good cleaning every month or two. I just tried the pantyhose on a couple of my shafts that aren't super slick.... they are now. I don't think this will remove the blue, but it will get the grime off and burnish it nicely.

Has anyone else tried this or did I just invent it? :thumbup:
 
I use the chem Q wax on my cue and I like it. Never tried butchers wax yet, they say it it really slick. Q silk suck big time and I hate it, never used it on my cue again, I have a brand new bottle and a bottle that has only a drop or two used out of and it is just sitting here. I might give it another try some other time on a house cue or something lol. I just got my ME sample today in the mail. Used it dry on my ferrule and it takes the chalk stain right out, can't imagine what a bit of denature alcohol might do!
 
I've stopped using any chemicals except denatured alcohol on the magic eraser for cleaning the ferrule. I haven't had to use ME on the shaft in a long time as I chalk with the tip pointing towards the ground and this avoids maybe 90% of the chalk dust falling on the shaft.

I use a thin piece of ME on the ferrule about once every 10 or 12 hours of play. I wipe the shaft with denatured alcohol after every couple hours of play, dry quickly with a towel. Then maybe, if needed, take 3 or 4 swipes with 1500 grit abrasive mesh or sandpaper, and then burnish with leather.

My shafts are always as clean as new and as slick as any I've ever had using wax or special shaft slickening chemicals.... and I've tried every single one on the market. No need for any of them.
 
chin0 said:
I use the chem Q wax on my cue and I like it. Never tried butchers wax yet, they say it it really slick. Q silk suck big time and I hate it, never used it on my cue again, I have a brand new bottle and a bottle that has only a drop or two used out of and it is just sitting here. I might give it another try some other time on a house cue or something lol. I just got my ME sample today in the mail. Used it dry on my ferrule and it takes the chalk stain right out, can't imagine what a bit of denature alcohol might do!
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I haven't tried Butchers Wax either and went to ACE hardware yesterday to get it and they no longer can order it. The other big hardware stores don't have it either. So I ordered a can online since I am not in the New England area anymore.
http://housewares.hardwarestore.com/35-176-paste-waxes/butchers-paste-wax-144998.aspx
 
Has anyone tried Trewax on their shafts? It's Carnuba wax, like Butcher's. I've used it for many years on wood, even on the pool table, but never on a shaft. Maybe I'll give it a try, unless someone has tried it and it's no good.
 
I like that!

I've never used the magic eraser for my shaft but I after reading all the posts here, I think I will. I have read about the brown paper bag for smooth finish.



Who knew! You learn something new every day...
 
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