Mahogany?

AnyMahogany I have seen was very light, I think we are 100 years too late. I was told long ago that the Cuban stuff was huge and dense. But it is long gone.

3raildraw

"Yea, I have made 20,000 cues in the last 25 years or so"
 
Weight

JoeyInCali said:
Ouch!
Why not use pplheart or goncalo to get that weight up?
Click to expand...

Because I have never done this before and have no idea WTF I am doing some of the time .....
And I am not set up to core cues .
Your idea is to core the cue from the butt end ...and adding 4 to 5 ounces using
PPL heart or Goncalo Alves ?
Because I am so new to making cues I have been only using maple because its cheap and I have allot of it and I can bypass coring issues .

I ended up extending the mahogany cue using ebony.
I extended the butt from 28 3/4 to 30 inches.
Cue is not finished yet, and I still might install some kind of wooden dowel for adjusting weight and balance points .
I am putting on a 105/207 finish as I am writing this .

The mahogany one piece butt ( mali ) weighed in at I think 12 oz The weight bolt system was a 1/4 wood screw about a 1.5 inches long .

After removing all the plastic butt cap and joint collars, 5/16 pin ( bare bones 1 piece mahogany wrapless butt it weighed in at 9.3 OZ and the butt still needed to be re- tapered .
Knowing what I know now I would been better off tossing the butt section away .
But that is hind sight now.

Personally I would to prefer to stay away from cues made from certain woods like mahogany or walnut ..
I don't know why I am saying this because I plan on making a wrapless using redwood burl .

Ps I think Mahogany wood makes gas, I had what looked like a bubble that burst or a blow out in the finish ?

No pics sorry .
Learning allot, and having fun screwing around with this old mali .
Would I do it differently next time ,, yes ...
I would be all set up to have cored the cue . but at the same time the butt was warped and should of been scraped .

The hole point was to get that old Mali cue back in action and for me to learn .

Just hobby shop stuff .





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mortuarymike-nv said:
Ps I think Mahogany wood makes gas, I had what looked like a bubble that burst or a blow out in the finish ?
Click to expand...

One thing about Honduran mahogany (or whatever you want to call it: swietenia macrophylla) is that it can be very stable because of the tangential vs radial expansion coefficients.

Anyhow, that bubble is probably (or could be, at any rate) from the pores. When you put a viscous finish on it, like epoxy, it will tend to either bridge the pores, or at a minimum trap some air. If it should heat up slightly, as it normally does when epoxy cures, the air expands and you have a bubble, similar to pinholes when you're doing fiber glass.

Next time, heat up the wood a little before applying the epoxy, and heat it up a little after too (gently). When it cools, the air will contract and either do nothing or suck it in a bit.

If you were spraying lacquer instead, the lacquer would coat the bottom of the pores and you'd be there for the next few weeks spraying trying to fill them, so you would generally use a pore filler of some sort first under lacquer. Oddly enough, epoxy's become a popular pore filler, though I personally prefer something else.
 
Last edited:
Epoxy

john coloccia said:
One thing about Honduran mahogany (or whatever you want to call it: swietenia macrophylla) is that it can be very stable because of the tangential vs radial expansion coefficients.

Anyhow, that bubble is probably (or could be, at any rate) from the pores. When you put a viscous finish on it, like epoxy, it will tend to either bridge the pores, or at a minimum trap some air. If it should heat up slightly, as it normally does when epoxy cures, the air expands and you have a bubble, similar to pinholes when you're doing fiber glass.

Next time, heat up the wood a little before applying the epoxy, and heat it up a little after too (gently). When it cools, the air will contract and either do nothing or suck it in a bit.

If you were spraying lacquer instead, the lacquer would coat the bottom of the pores and you'd be there for the next few weeks spraying trying to fill them, so you would generally use a pore filler of some sort first under lacquer. Oddly enough, epoxy's become a popular pore filler, though I personally prefer something else.
Click to expand...

Epoxy finish .
And its my first rodeo using 105/ 207, I did a thread a while back .
Its pretty warm in my shop 75 to 80 degrees , and I pre heated the epoxy and hardener separately .
I have tungsten lamps that I put on the cue for several hours before doing the finish to heat the butt of the cue up.
 
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