I really appreciate it! Finishing has made me consider quitting cue making more than anything else. From what I can gather, nothing beats automotive clear coat spray, but I won't touch it because of the toxicity/proximity to family/et cetera. I used to use UV but it was a nightmare. Invisible pockmarks, craters, white specks from nothing. Never again. The stuff I use now, I absolutely love. It's easy, non toxic, and you cannot tell a difference between it and a cue coated with auto clear. The company is called Crystalac, and the product is Brite Tone Top Coat. You'll want gloss. Apply with a brush. Wicked thin coats. Like, stupid thin. Is it even on there, thin. Every four hours. I'll typically do around 15 coats. Sounds like a long time but in practice its usually just a couple days. Then cure for a week. Always sand wet. Start with 800 wrapped around a block. Careful around edges, I don't do those with a block. Once there are zero craters and everything is 100% matte, you're done and can remove the block. Then continue with 1000, 1200, 1500, 3000, no block for any of them. By the way, in this video I apply the Brite Tone but please disregard the amount I used. I was distracted thinking about shooting logistics and it was wayyyyyy too much for a single coat. I ended up sanding it all down and restarting off camera. For polishing: meguiars ultimate compound, then meguiars synthetic sealant 2.0, then renaissance wax. Moving backwards real quick, the sealer coat is also important and seems to be highly variable between cue makers. I personally use epoxy to seal everything in. Hard as a rock. Adds a little weight. I just love the feel of a cue that's been sealed in epoxy, feels sturdy. I use Max 1618. Favorite stuff on the planet, seriously, the best epoxy you can get. There is a UV sanding sealer that lots of people love, Solarez I can't Believe It's Not Lacquer. I want it to work so badly, because the amount of time it saves is incredible. But it's too temperamental.