Marking a shaft

[Bob Jewett]

For what reason?

The reason would be that the cue stick is not the same in all rotations and you want to always use the same rotation for consistency.

No cue is perfectly straight. No tip exactly the same in all rotations. Maybe the rotation of the spine makes a small difference in squirt (reports on this are mixed).

Whether the reduction in variables is worth the bother is a good question.

I marked my ferrules for a long time and always played with the mark up. Getting the rotation right was part of my pre-shot routine and pretty much subconscious. Maybe it helped get a flow/zone going. I'm lazy now and don't do it.

Many snooker players always shoot with their cues rotated to a specific point. Ash shafts kind of need this because of their heavy markings.

 

[PDX]

I'd suggest marking the ferrule.

 

[Patrick Johnson]

I like the idea of a subtle ring around the shaft at the natural pivot point.

Sloppy Pockets:
Sounds like a good idea, but how would you do it? I don't wear a glove, so anything that I could feel (like a shallow groove or an inlay) as I stroke would drive me bonkers, and a surface marking would wear off quickly in that location.

mortuarymike:
If it was burned in and had a finish over it to make the surface level and smooth then the finish its self would be noticeable and sticky compared to the woods smooth surface .
Ink will bleed and you cannot use a sticker there either......

For low squirt shafts the mark would be behind most bridges, so a tiny groove might work for those.

For more normal pivot lengths I guess it would have to be an inlay (smooth enough so it couldn't be felt)...maybe a groove filled with tinted epoxy and sanded smooth?

pj
chgo

 

[GB Basher]

Being an ex snooker player I had my Pool Cue made with a 'chamfer' on the butt so I always knew which way up it was.
IMO I don't think its a good idea to permanently mark the shaft to find the 'sweet spot' because this will probably change when you re tip your cue.

 

[nateobot]

I could see that being useful, maybe cue tip makers could put a line on the side of the tip?

 

[mortuarymike-nv]

Shafts

For low squirt shafts the mark would be behind most bridges, so a tiny groove might work for those.

For more normal pivot lengths I guess it would have to be an inlay (smooth enough so it couldn't be felt)...maybe a groove filled with tinted epoxy and sanded smooth?

pj
chgo

Hi Patrick

Honestly saying I don't know allot about the low squirt or the tests they have done on LD shafts.

Main reason is the LD laminated shafts I did own fell apart within the first year of buying them..
I felt totally ripped off and personally after switching back to a solid maple shaft I am not willing to play with most LD shafts any more.

I was just trying to be helpful with how I put my logo on some of my work.

 

[Patrick Johnson]

Hi Patrick

Honestly saying I don't know allot about the low squirt or the tests they have done on LD shafts.

Main reason is the LD laminated shafts I did own fell apart within the first year of buying them..
I felt totally ripped off and personally after switching back to a solid maple shaft I am not willing to play with most LD shafts any more.

I was just trying to be helpful with how I put my logo on some of my work.

Your input was helpful, Mike. I'm just batting ideas around too...

pj
chgo

 

[tonythetiger583]

I mostly want to mark the pivot point of the cue and I'm so far really like the tester paint idea.

 

[gogg]

Flame from a lighter will darken the wood...( careful, just a tiny bit at a time)
My bridgelength mark has been there for years despite cleanings w scuffers and such. (Fainter, but there)

 

[Shaft]

Even if the pivot point changes an inch either way, the original mark will still be a useful reference.

 

[Sloppy Pockets]

If it was burned in and had a finish over it to make the surface level and smooth then the finish its self would be noticeable and sticky compared to the woods smooth surface .
Ink will bleed and you cannot use a sticker there either......

I was thinking about the laser method. How shallow can they cut a band of microscopic dots? If there were enough of them that were small and shallow enough, I'll bet a good dye could be used that would penetrate down the holes and into the wood without them being large enough to be felt by the hand. I know Apple uses that sort of technology to make a matrix of tiny holes in an aluminum laptop chassis that allows an LED light to be seen shining through the metal.

 

[Tramp Steamer]

Mike, tell Pat how to find the spine of a cue shaft.
And, just so you folks will know, a cue shaft spine (which exists in all cylindrical forms) refers to the single point in the shaft that bends the least. Obviously the area that bends the most is 360 degrees opposite the spine.
QUOTE]
You mean 180 degrees don't ya?

Yes, thanks for the correction. :smile:

 

[Patrick Johnson]

Even if the pivot point changes an inch either way, the original mark will still be a useful reference.

Yes, like most things we "see" when playing pool, it matters more that we see it consistently, not so much whether we see it accurately.

For instance, when aiming with fractions (quarters) as reference alignments - it doesn't matter so much whether we actually see the quarters alignments accurately, so long as we see them the same way each time.

pj
chgo

 

[Tramp Steamer]

The orientation that bends the most is 90 degrees from the spine.
The spine runs right through the shaft, so 180 degrees (the opposite orientation) would also be the spine. 360 degrees would, of course, be where you started.
Shaft stiffness has little or nothing to do with the amount of squirt a shaft produces. To the (insignificant) extent stiffness does matter, it works opposite what you describe (more stiffness = more squirt).
I think you might have better luck sticking with the jokes...
pj
chgo
P.S. I like the idea of a subtle ring around the shaft at the natural pivot point.

The 360 degrees was in error. It should have read 180 degrees.
As for the rest, Mr. Personality, prove me wrong.

 

[Patrick Johnson]

The 360 degrees was in error. It should have read 180 degrees.

Well, no... it should have read 90 degrees (as I said).

...prove me wrong.

Been there; done that. Try the search function.

Mr. Personality

You came out swinging - seems like this is the kind of interaction you were looking for.

pj
chgo

 

[Tramp Steamer]

Well, no... it should have read 90 degrees (as I said).
Been there; done that. Try the search function.
You came out swinging - seems like this is the kind of interaction you were looking for.

pj
chgo

You're an ass. Johnson, pure and simple. You're quick to criticize and I've never known you to offer help to anyone. You always work in the negative.

 

[Sloppy Pockets]

For low squirt shafts the mark would be behind most bridges, so a tiny groove might work for those.

For more normal pivot lengths I guess it would have to be an inlay (smooth enough so it couldn't be felt)...maybe a groove filled with tinted epoxy and sanded smooth?

pj
chgo

I thought the idea behind squirt reduction is to get the pivot point of the cue directly at the fulcrum of the bridge at the time of CB contact. Am I still misunderstanding how it works after all this time?

 

[mortuarymike-nv]

Marking the shaft

I have heard about people marking the shaft spine by cutting a grove done the spine of the shaft and inlaying a piece of veneer.

The veneers are 0.030 thick or 30 thousands for those who have forgotten fractions.
The grove would only have to be set cut in hundred thousand That like the thickness of 60 human hairs
Or 1 tenth of a inch :grin:
Send the shaft to me, No problem inlaying a piece veneer in it.

What color do you want ?

No joking around I have seen shafts that have a line down them.
Its also said that helps your aiming.
And also I really can inlay a piece of veneer down the shaft.
Maybe the next shaft I make I will do that to ...

 

[Cornerman]

I thought the idea behind squirt reduction is to get the pivot point of the cue directly at the fulcrum of the bridge at the time of CB contact. Am I still misunderstanding how it works after all this time?

It could certainly be a goal for squirt reduction (to get the effective pivot point about where the bridge is), but the majority of people who want to reduce squirt want to get the least amount of squirt compensation.

I actually am one of a few that would rather add squirt to a low squirt shaft to get the pivot point right around a natural bridge length. For BHE users, this, IMO, would make sense.

Freddie <~~~ sensible

 

[mortuarymike-nv]

holes

I was thinking about the laser method. How shallow can they cut a band of microscopic dots? If there were enough of them that were small and shallow enough, I'll bet a good dye could be used that would penetrate down the holes and into the wood without them being large enough to be felt by the hand. I know Apple uses that sort of technology to make a matrix of tiny holes in an aluminum laptop chassis that allows an LED light to be seen shining through the metal.

That could be done on a laser or with a cnc or on a lathe......
I rather cut a 30 thousands grove about hundreds thousands deep.