Marking a shaft

tonythetiger583

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
So let's say we want specific marking painted permanently on our shaft. How would we go about it in such a way that it wouldn't wear off over time, or if used in conjunction with a Q-wiz?
 

ROB.M

:)
Silver Member
Post

I'm sure it can be done on a graphite shaft, basically a decal....



Best of luck.

Rob.M
 

Tramp Steamer

One Pocket enthusiast.
Silver Member
So let's say we want specific marking painted permanently on our shaft. How would we go about it in such a way that it wouldn't wear off over time, or if used in conjunction with a Q-wiz?

One way would be to (first) find the high side of your shaft and make a small mark with a pencil.
Next, secure the shaft in a padded vise on the table of a drill press.
Using a small bit, say 1/8th or 1/16inch, drill a hole no deeper than the point of the bit.
Take a tooth pick and dip it into a small jar of Testors enamel (color of your choice), and gently fill the hole. Let dry overnight. If the dot of paint has shrunk below the surface of the shaft you might want to repeat.
When the paint has dried to the level of the shaft's surface you are good to go. :smile:
 

Shaft

Hooked and Improving
Silver Member
I routinely mark my shafts when I find the natural pivot point.

I have used ink and paint, but the ink and paint eventually wear off.

Most recently, I have set a small rhinestone into the wood. It non-obvious, but easy to see if you know where to look.
 

Shaft

Hooked and Improving
Silver Member
One way would be to (first) find the high side of your shaft and make a small mark with a pencil.
Next, secure the shaft in a padded vise on the table of a drill press.
Using a small bit, say 1/8th or 1/16inch, drill a hole no deeper than the point of the bit.
Take a tooth pick and dip it into a small jar of Testors enamel (color of your choice), and gently fill the hole. Let dry overnight. If the dot of paint has shrunk below the surface of the shaft you might want to repeat.
When the paint has dried to the level of the shaft's surface you are good to go. :smile:

I like this idea as well. I may try this next time.
 

mortuarymike-nv

mortuarymike-nv
Silver Member
burning in

So let's say we want specific marking painted permanently on our shaft. How would we go about it in such a way that it wouldn't wear off over time, or if used in conjunction with a Q-wiz?

I was going to have a miniature branding iron made so I could brand my logo into the wood or bone ( I use allot of elk deer and some ivory )

The only problem putting in the date it was made,

My hand writing sucks, and I go the extra mile not to use plastic and just the thought of using a sticker kind of turns me off.


I laser engrave it..i guess it the most expensive way to go, but I have always liked the way it looks.

I have the choices of different fonts and size of the letters
 
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Tramp Steamer

One Pocket enthusiast.
Silver Member

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hang-the-9

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
So let's say we want specific marking painted permanently on our shaft. How would we go about it in such a way that it wouldn't wear off over time, or if used in conjunction with a Q-wiz?

Spray paint over the marking with a clearcoat.

Or have a cuemaker engrave it.
 

eddie0776

Bishop Cues
Silver Member
Mike, tell Pat how to find the spine of a cue shaft.
And, just so you folks will know, a cue shaft spine (which exists in all cylindrical forms) refers to the single point in the shaft that bends the least. Obviously the area that bends the most is 360 degrees opposite the spine.
QUOTE]

You mean 180 degrees don't ya?
 

mortuarymike-nv

mortuarymike-nv
Silver Member
Marking the shaft

Mike, tell Pat how to find the spine of a cue shaft.
And, just so you folks will know, a cue shaft spine (which exists in all cylindrical forms) refers to the single point in the shaft that bends the least. Obviously the area that bends the most is 360 degrees opposite the spine.
Why is this important to us? Consistency, be it ever so small. If we identify that part of the shaft that bends the least then the cue ball, when struck, will squirt the least, due to less deflection in the shaft.
Maybe not earthshaking, but as the little old lady said, as she pissed in the sea. "Every little bit helps."
Go ahead Mike, you're up. :)


Try to cover everything in one reply.
I wouldn't use a magic marker on un sealed wood........ The ink bleeds into the wood :eek:
Stickers seem to slide around at times when you put a finish over them.

Yes there is a spine or grain to most materials that have been made or are naturally a cylindrical shape I don't know about plastic .
Marking the shaft on the spine seems reasonable enough if you were to put your logo on a shaft I guess that would be the best place.

I cannot help to say this but everyone should study snooker players and there equipment.
Very good example how much its the equipment and how much it is the shooter that makes a pro player......................................................................................

Here is example of some of the laser engraving.
This was made for a friend of mine.

I like the way his name came out Nevada kid, I am not that pleased with the bold M's .
( I think I will stick with matching fonts )
 
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Patrick Johnson

Fish of the Day
Silver Member
Mike, tell Pat how to find the spine of a cue shaft.
And, just so you folks will know, a cue shaft spine (which exists in all cylindrical forms) refers to the single point in the shaft that bends the least. Obviously the area that bends the most is 360 degrees opposite the spine.
The orientation that bends the most is 90 degrees from the spine.

The spine runs right through the shaft, so 180 degrees (the opposite orientation) would also be the spine. 360 degrees would, of course, be where you started.

...that part of the shaft that bends the least then the cue ball, when struck, will squirt the least, due to less deflection in the shaft.
Shaft stiffness has little or nothing to do with the amount of squirt a shaft produces. To the (insignificant) extent stiffness does matter, it works opposite what you describe (more stiffness = more squirt).

I think you might have better luck sticking with the jokes...

pj
chgo

P.S. I like the idea of a subtle ring around the shaft at the natural pivot point.
 
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Sloppy Pockets

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
P.S. I like the idea of a subtle ring around the shaft at the natural pivot point.

Sounds like a good idea, but how would you do it? I don't wear a glove, so anything that I could feel (like a shallow groove or an inlay) as I stroke would drive me bonkers, and a surface marking would wear off quickly in that location.
 

mortuarymike-nv

mortuarymike-nv
Silver Member
Mark

Sounds like a good idea, but how would you do it? I don't wear a glove, so anything that I could feel (like a shallow groove or an inlay) as I stroke would drive me bonkers, and a surface marking would wear off quickly in that location.

If it was burned in and had a finish over it to make the surface level and smooth then the finish its self would be noticeable and sticky compared to the woods smooth surface .
Ink will bleed and you cannot use a sticker there either......
 
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