Masters, triangle chalk becoming outdated

flyvirginiaguy said:
For out and about, Masters is perfectly fine imo. But for my home table, Taom. Much less mess on my table.
Click to expand...



Think my observation is Toam grips ball better,improving spi, and draw.

The guy who plays and practices like Pool is job, full time play great with what is available.

House Cue, Hoose Chalk, skill v/s equipment.
 
Bobkitty said:
I have NEVER wrote anything like that. I've lost to better players. BUT I did not lose over and over, trying to learn the game.
Click to expand...
WTF???? Post #127. Might want to go re-read it. Looks to me like that's exactly what you said. Sort of as it make little if any sense. You say you might lose 5-10bux and then move on. Very nxt sentence you say, and i quote: "NEVER lost money to a better player. At least as long as i can remember". So which is it? Did/didn't or just have no clue?? Goodbye troll. Welcome to my ignore list.
 
That is cool. You are exactly like CocoboloCowboy, In every damn thread on AZB.
 
measureman said:
If the V-10 grips the cue ball better then Masters would that not increase draw?
Less slippage so to speak and more transfer of force.
This is too much thinking on my part,I'm worn out.
Click to expand...
maybe marginally but damn have you ever seen mike massy shoot english ...... i dont see how V10 would make it any better not $25 dollars worth .... anything other than cleanliness is probably in the head
 
measureman said:
A little known fact is that Mike Massey uses "Chuck Norris wonder chalk"
Click to expand...
That reminds me of his explanation of his exhibition shot where He causes the object ball to jump slightly to pass through a gap that he has just showed us that it can't fit through. He explains, "the balls are made of shrink-o-flex. The harder you hit them the more they shrink." I saw it with my own eyes.😉 He hit it hard and it passed right through.
 
The_JV said:
That depends on whether anything is gleened during the clubbing, and what value you put on those real world lessons.

Actually paying attention to how superior players work through the game is nearly as valuable as watching yourself on play back. Lots of info to pull in if you're willing to do so.
Click to expand...
I can do that for free.... while someone is taking YOUR money! Lol
 
ShootingArts said:
The ability of the medium the abrasive is in to hold it in place long enough for edges to bite is certainly a factor as is tip hardness. If the abrasive just slides on the tip or cue ball it isn't doing it's job.

Reading how sandpaper is made, static electricity is used to put the particles on the paper and to orient the abrasive sharpest side up. No equivalent of that in chalk that I have ever heard of, the grit is just randomly placed in the mixture. If we try to shape or sand with a chalk cube it is much less effective than the same size grit in sandpaper I believe for the reasons I have given. Of course somebody may have figured out a way to orient the grit but I doubt it, particularly because you need sharp edges 180 degrees opposed.

I could get interested in playing with chalk design but I am more than willing to "blackbox" it and just take advantage of somebody else's work.

Hu
Click to expand...
You just gave me an idea....
Use a battery in the butt of the cue to put a charge opposite the chalk on the tip. The chalk would jump out of the cube to get to it.
 
ShootingArts said:
No big deal if you do this. I think most people that do are using a lot more chalk than needed but who cares?
Click to expand...
When I was playing 3C 4 or 5 times a week for 3 hrs. per day a cube of chalk (I carried and used my own) would last well over a year. But although I chalked before every shot, I am a very light stroker, practically caresser, of chalk, not a grinder, so I doubt I am using too much.
 
KissedOut said:
When I was playing 3C 4 or 5 times a week for 3 hrs. per day a cube of chalk (I carried and used my own) would last well over a year. But although I chalked before every shot, I am a very light stroker, practically caresser, of chalk, not a grinder, so I doubt I am using too much.
Click to expand...
The way it was described to me... You should put chalk on the tip as gently as a woman puts on lipstick.
 
Watch how Ronnie O'Sullivan does it.
The torpedo tip was shown to me a long time ago and I can't deny the logic. Center tip doesn't need grip. Impact should be dead center ball. When striking off center it's not the center tip striking the ball. Perimeter chalking is where my attention goes 🤷
 
KissedOut said:
When I was playing 3C 4 or 5 times a week for 3 hrs. per day a cube of chalk (I carried and used my own) would last well over a year. But although I chalked before every shot, I am a very light stroker, practically caresser, of chalk, not a grinder, so I doubt I am using too much.
Click to expand...


I never watched much 3C. The few times I did they would play for hours and never make a ball. Hell of a safety game both players had! As a side note, Efren pursued 3C and other carom games for awhile when other action got very hard to find. People have noticed him really shooting 3C on a pool table with pool balls warming up for big pool matches!

I didn't say all players chalking every shot use too much chalk as I am sure some chalk as you do. Seems like many snooker players chalk like that too. A cube of chalk would last them a full event and still be almost like new. Most "chalk as part of their preshot routine" players at the local hall seem to be high C, B, players and above. Some pick their tip with a tool that drives needles deep into it every session and make chalk fly every time they chalk. They are great for a cue mechanic's business.

I wipe my tip clean on a napkin or paper towel, preferably slightly damp, before putting it in my case. Then before every session and maybe once or twice during a long session I roll dents into my tip with a lot of pressure using a BRAD tool and not letting it slip. My single layer tips, Elkmasters, last for years.

The tip tools that cut a tip to a perfect nickel or dime shape with the cutout on the side to check tip profiles are great for mechanics, an ardent admirer of those can go through a high dollar tip every month or two! At one time I thought about giving one free with every high dollar tip install! I did carry one in nickel and dime to show customers what radius they really had on their old tip before changing it out and checking what radius they wanted on their new one. \\

My tips naturally shape to a little flatter than a nickel. When I stubbornly try to force them to maintain a dime shape I go through a lot of tips too! When I taught customers to roll dents instead of a bunch of other tip manicuring it cut my tip business about 75%! Another business killer, quarter radius or flatter on a break cue. A surprising number of people cut break tips to a dime shape to match their shooting cue. Why? Better break force transfer with the broader area and few use a lot of spin breaking balls. I did for years but that was before break cues were common.

As an old player and mechanic I almost never wear out a tip. I get curious about a new fad tip sometimes or want knowledge to give feedback to customers that ask or I would get two years or more out of a tip even playing heavily.



gregcantrall said:
Watch how Ronnie O'Sullivan does it.
The torpedo tip was shown to me a long time ago and I can't deny the logic. Center tip doesn't need grip. Impact should be dead center ball. When striking off center it's not the center tip striking the ball. Perimeter chalking is where my attention goes 🤷
Click to expand...

Perimeter chalking is exactly what I do too. I have never miscued hitting center ball. A very light chalking across the center once a game is really more than I need to do, then I focus on the perimeter if I have to use extreme spin. Most eight, nine, and ten ball games chalking once before starting a game using Master chalk is plenty. One pocket, depends on how the game plays out. I am pretty extravagant with my sixteen cent chalk and may chalk several times during a game for no particularly good reason!

Hu
 
measureman said:
If the V-10 grips the cue ball better then Masters would that not increase draw?
Less slippage so to speak and more transfer of force.
This is too much thinking on my part,I'm worn out.
Click to expand...


You got it right as you said it, but if the Tip on Cue is smooth as ass if new born child, it will not hold any Chalk.

Scuff or break surface with 220 sand paper, and Master could be Magic.
 
CocoboloCowboy said:
You got it right as you said it, but if the Tip on Cue is smooth as ass if new born child, it will not hold any Chalk.

Scuff or break surface with 220 sand paper, and Master could be Magic.
Click to expand...
If you use Master correctly your tip will never be as "smooth as [sic] ass [sic] if new born child".
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top