mini lathe

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Here is my harbor freight one
All the chinese ones are pretty much the same
I got mine for about 300 on sale
You will need to rig up some kind of rest in back
 
chuckpilegis said:
IMG_0020.jpg

IMG_0019.jpg


Here is my harbor freight one
All the chinese ones are pretty much the same
I got mine for about 300 on sale
You will need to rig up some kind of rest in back
Does that eyebolt have a bearing or is it just plastic collar,does it not get too hot thanks
 
almer said:
Does that eyebolt have a bearing or is it just plastic collar,does it not get too hot thanks
Plastic collar lined with moleskin
Tried with a bearing but it marked up the shaft
Maybe iI will try again this time lineing the bearing with moleskin
 
chuckpilegis said:
Plastic collar lined with moleskin
Tried with a bearing but it marked up the shaft
Maybe iI will try again this time lineing the bearing with moleskin
Bigger bearing and teflon collet ought to do it.
 
Need to use a light weight bearing as it is more free turning than a sealed heavy duty one. As Joey states, you need a collet with the bearing. I have a set-up similar to this one with a piece of 1/4" flat stock that bolts to the back of the lathe head. On this I have an upright with a bearing that is made to slide along the flat stock so that the back of the shaft is held correctly. I have a thumb screw that locks the up-right in the correct position for each shaft. I use this set-up at tournaments. If you have table space behind your headstock it would be easy just to mount the bearing in a stand at the correct height that can be easily set at the correct position.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
Need to use a light weight bearing as it is more free turning than a sealed heavy duty one. As Joey states, you need a collet with the bearing. I have a set-up similar to this one with a piece of 1/4" flat stock that bolts to the back of the lathe head. On this I have an upright with a bearing that is made to slide along the flat stock so that the back of the shaft is held correctly. I have a thumb screw that locks the up-right in the correct position for each shaft. I use this set-up at tournaments. If you have table space behind your headstock it would be easy just to mount the bearing in a stand at the correct height that can be easily set at the correct position.

Dick



I saw one setup simular to that before, only instead of flat stock a thick piece of angle was used. The bearing block was nothing more then a piece of wood that had a "L" shape cut out of It, so It would slide up and down the angle, and locked down with a set screw or something. He had no bearing just a hole and used a piece of table felt to protect the shaft, but it worked pretty well, and I'm sure that a bearing could be used in It's place.

Like mentioned If there was enough table space behind the lathe then a rail of some sort could be mounted to the table. I have thought about a piece of 80/20 t-slot, with a bearing block that slides up and down, and can be locked into position. Seems easy enough to do. I might try that with My mini sometime. Right now I only use It for turning small metal parts though.

You could mount 2 pieces of angle to the table that were parallel with each other, and had a space inbetween them to hold the bearing block square also.

There's many ways It could be done with enough imagination.

Greg
 
Southbend setup

Do you have any pictures of your 9' southbend setup that you could post?
 
rhncue said:
Need to use a light weight bearing as it is more free turning than a sealed heavy duty one. As Joey states, you need a collet with the bearing. I have a set-up similar to this one with a piece of 1/4" flat stock that bolts to the back of the lathe head. On this I have an upright with a bearing that is made to slide along the flat stock so that the back of the shaft is held correctly. I have a thumb screw that locks the up-right in the correct position for each shaft. I use this set-up at tournaments. If you have table space behind your headstock it would be easy just to mount the bearing in a stand at the correct height that can be easily set at the correct position.

Dick
I stole my setup design fr Joe Blackburn,heavy metal base ,pipe with hole,smaller shaft inside pipe with bearing welded in frame ad top,thumbscrew to adjust height,its handy cause i just slide it ahead to trim tips with blade,i have a welder so just stuff laying around.When i put shaft into the collet i just make it snug,turns easy,no marks on shaft
 
poolplayer2093 said:
is there a lathe that's good enough for just tips and ferrules? and if so what do they go for used?
Theres a video in ask the cuemaker,techniques to trim a cue tip,my setup is pretty much exactly the same, works great,look at the very start to see the way he holds his shaft,also if you look quick you can see the small lathe he uses
 
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