Miscueing with Moori Mediums

Roll with it................................................ ..

The tip "tapper" in my opinion has been mis-named as you don't 'tap ' it on the tip. The proper way to use the "tapper" is to press it on the tip with light pressure and "roll" it over the surface of the tip. This rolling action roughs the surface enough to hold chalk but doesn't destroy the integrity of the leather. So I proclaim the new name shall be the 'TIP ROLLER'. :D I play several times a week and haven't replaced a tip in several months. I faithfully use my "tip roller after every set and I play with a wizard medium.
 
i started out with snipers, then switched to kamui when they came out, and now tried the moori III. Didnt like them after one day, didnt like them after one week, and still don't like them now after 2 months. I never had as much miscues as with these moori's.

i got some selfmade hairy tips from a azb'er and i will try them out. IMO anything is better then the new moori's, and i dont care i still have enough tip left for 6 months of play or that they cosed me 20$, i want them OFF my shaft ASAP.
 
layer seperation

I use the Med morri tips on a couple of OB2 shafts for my Schon. I personally like the hit and feel and have no serious miscue problems when I do my part....ie...chalk and scuff. The one problem I have noticed is a layer seperation when trying to achieve the "nickle" dome. Perhaps this is due to method ( I use the old sand paper stick). If anyone has had this issue and sucessfully resolved it......post up
 
I used to play solely with moori mediums. I thought they got hard and lost the feel i liked. I have since switched to wizards. I admit, I havent played with it real long but like them a lot so far.
 
BVal said:
Most of the time it is not the tip that is the problem it is the stroke. imo

BVal
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Yeah, I didn't want to be a dick or anything but I found that I miscued a lot with Moori tips when I was still in the B class......like 15 years ago. I swore against Moori's for the longest time and then a few years ago I had to borrow a cue from someone and it had Moori's on it. I was concerned at first because I remembered all the miscue problems. That didn't happen anymore and I liked the tips so much that I've been using them the past couple of years now. I agree, it's the stroke, not the tip.
MULLY
 
slick mooris

I wnt to a soft Moori because of miscuing But I also changed certain
techniques that helped. Particularly when cb is on or close to the rail.
 
I don't really care for Mooris, but I do have two shafts with Moori mediums (one 13mm and one 12.7) and have had no problems with miscueing (well, none that I can blame the tips for anyway).
 
Had moori tips they would glaze over, would not hold chalk. Switch to kamui med. no more problems and very few mis-cues that I know are caused now by my stroke. :eek:
 
danquixote said:
I use the Med morri tips on a couple of OB2 shafts for my Schon. I personally like the hit and feel and have no serious miscue problems when I do my part....ie...chalk and scuff. The one problem I have noticed is a layer seperation when trying to achieve the "nickle" dome. Perhaps this is due to method ( I use the old sand paper stick). If anyone has had this issue and sucessfully resolved it......post up
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I had two Moori Mediums delaminate in a row. It's not the sand paper. I did'nt notice excessive miscueing. However, they did mushroom and I had to constantly shape them. They glazed over quickly. I roughed or picked them frequently. I have a new Predator 314-2 shaft. I'm playing with the tip that came on it. I feel liberated from constantly shaping or picking the tip. I will not go back to Moori.
 
i used to use a moori medium and found problems with miscuing and the tip glazing over, i spoke with a top 9ball professional and they recommended trying moori soft as thats what they use and since that switch i can honestly say in 7/8 months i have maybe miscued twice, they are great, dont require much maintenance and never glaze. i'd highly recommend them1
 
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