Molavia tips

kiinstructor

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Just wanted to let everyone know about my experience with Molavia tips. I play with a Jerry Franklin cue built in 1987. Have the original shafts that are essentially the same size as when I got them. I have played mostly with triangle tips but Ive tried about every non laminated tip there is and finally decided to try Moori medium tips. Big difference in spin and general playability. I have three shafts with this cue so Im able to try different tips and compare. Anyway went ahead and tried a Molavia "R' which is their medium. All I can say is these are exceptional tips. They hit crisper not as mushy as moori med and ultimately have greater ball control. They look alot like moori tips so I was able to put one on a shaft and leave the moori on another and a hercules 23 layer on another. The herc sticks out because of the layers and I had a number of players try all shafts and compare after hitting in a couple of racks with each. All of them agreed the molavia was better and not just a little bit. I know their pricey but man are they worth it. I understand that tips are a personal preference thing but Ive really tried almost every one. I will also try the moori quick and try to post results. Good luck and make lots of balls!!!!!
Happiness Mark
 
kiinstructor said:
Just wanted to let everyone know about my experience with Molavia tips. I play with a Jerry Franklin cue built in 1987. Have the original shafts that are essentially the same size as when I got them. I have played mostly with triangle tips but Ive tried about every non laminated tip there is and finally decided to try Moori medium tips. Big difference in spin and general playability. I have three shafts with this cue so Im able to try different tips and compare. Anyway went ahead and tried a Molavia "R' which is their medium. All I can say is these are exceptional tips. They hit crisper not as mushy as moori med and ultimately have greater ball control. They look alot like moori tips so I was able to put one on a shaft and leave the moori on another and a hercules 23 layer on another. The herc sticks out because of the layers and I had a number of players try all shafts and compare after hitting in a couple of racks with each. All of them agreed the molavia was better and not just a little bit. I know their pricey but man are they worth it. I understand that tips are a personal preference thing but Ive really tried almost every one. I will also try the moori quick and try to post results. Good luck and make lots of balls!!!!!
Happiness Mark

I feel the same, and have said so in a few posts myself. I agree 100% regarding the comparison between the Molavia and the Moori.
Kelly
 
As much as you like Molavia, and its indeed a fine tip...try the Sniper by Tiger...you'll never look back. Just make sure to have it installed correctly by a professional.
 
Correct Install!?

Hey Varney,

Can you tell us what some of the pitfalls might be with an "incorrect" poorly done installation of a tip!?

I've started doing tips in the last year using a Willard Classic Tipper....any guidance would be much appreciated!!! :)

Thanks in advance,

Ken ;)
 
Agreed!

Varney Cues said:
As much as you like Molavia, and its indeed a fine tip...try the Sniper by Tiger...you'll never look back. Just make sure to have it installed correctly by a professional.
I couldn't agree more. Both Moori and Molavia tips are fantastic, but, Sniper tips stand alone at the top in my book. The combination of a Sniper tip and their "X" Shaft is unbeatable. (Sniper tips and a Predator shaft if you must);)

~ Virtually no mushrooming
~ Rarely glosses over
~ Accepts chalk like no other
~ Cheaper than both Moori and Molavia (in most cases)
~ Sights well when aiming
~ No irritating noise

Excellent tip!
 
The ONLY downside to the Sniper is that more care must be taken when installing one. Best bet is to contact Tony at Tiger for a step by step walk through. I will give you the brief basics though...
In order to not ruin the Sniper...after it has been glued to the ferrule you must slightly moisten the sides. Then do not attempt to use a tool cutter on a lathe as you would other tips. I use razor and hold it almost flush with the ferrule and shave out toward the top of the tip. Honestly I destroyed many (and hated them, swearing they were junk) before I realized the problem. Many players are using them now, incorrectly installed and don't realize the difference. The leather of the Sniper is a bit finicky so correct installation is a must. If you use a tool cutter or dull blades it will cause one or more layers to give problems. The leather instead of cutting will kind of tear. The way to test is simply push on the sides and check for movement. If the tip pushes even the slightest, has any movement...its ruined, you have a "blowout". It will be like one of the layers is not stiff as the rest and it will flex. You can also see it because the problem layer will be a tad fatter than the rest and after playing will turn dark as it sucks in chalk. If your tip looks normal but you see one different, dark layer...then push on it gently and you'll see the dark layer try to expand/seperate. If you have this problem, you'll need to replace with a fresh Sniper. When done correctly...they "hit" like no other tip, give unequaled cueball control and will NOT mushroom. If you have a problem Sniper...it will mushroom, make noise, and hit funny. Hope this helps.
 
I have not tried the sniper tips but plan to. I have heard they are a bit softer in hit and thats the reason I have stayed away from them. I prefer a crisp hit that has bite if that makes sense. I have no problem installing laminated tips. Glue them on properly and leave about three inches of the shaft and ferrule exposed from the front of the chuck and lay a very sharp stanley razor blade flat on the ferrule and angle it slightly and make a few passes until you begin to take off material. I sharpen all my blades as they come out of the package a bit dull and kind of thick. The leather on the tip will curl off with each Pass until it is level with the ferrule. Takes only a few passes and is fairly easy.The only thing you must watch for is how much you tilt the blade. If you tilt it to much you will take off to much material and point the tip. Ive done it so I know. Then I just hold the blade in front of the tip and shape it round. When I started doing this method I was afraid of scratchng the ferrule. Doesnt do it at all. Best method out there. Quick and clean. Then I take 2000 grit paper and polish the ferrule and tip a bit. Seal it and lightly burnish the tip. Not to much for laminated tips and thats it. Let me know how you sniper players feel about the tip being soft.
Happiness Mark
 
Man I'm glad this thread came up! I was already set on getting some Molivia tips. Sniper's are nice too, but I'm more interested in their X-Shaft than the tips. Nothing against the tips, but those Molavias just keep callin' my name!:p
 
kiinstructor said:
I have not tried the sniper tips but plan to. I have heard they are a bit softer in hit and thats the reason I have stayed away from them. I prefer a crisp hit that has bite if that makes sense. I have no problem installing laminated tips. Glue them on properly and leave about three inches of the shaft and ferrule exposed from the front of the chuck and lay a very sharp stanley razor blade flat on the ferrule and angle it slightly and make a few passes until you begin to take off material. I sharpen all my blades as they come out of the package a bit dull and kind of thick. The leather on the tip will curl off with each Pass until it is level with the ferrule. Takes only a few passes and is fairly easy.The only thing you must watch for is how much you tilt the blade. If you tilt it to much you will take off to much material and point the tip. Ive done it so I know. Then I just hold the blade in front of the tip and shape it round. When I started doing this method I was afraid of scratchng the ferrule. Doesnt do it at all. Best method out there. Quick and clean. Then I take 2000 grit paper and polish the ferrule and tip a bit. Seal it and lightly burnish the tip. Not to much for laminated tips and thats it. Let me know how you sniper players feel about the tip being soft.
Happiness Mark

I use a wire edged skew. You probably have 20 times the control over what people have using a razor. It takes 15 to 20 seconds to trim and shape a tip.

Dick
 
I think the razor blade works OK but theres gotta be something better. Im not sure what kind of tool your talking about. Im temped to try using a box cutter with the thin blades that snap off about every quarter of an inch to keep a sharp tip. All I know is I need something thin, smooth and sharp and something to hold on to for control. Thats the only problem with the stanley blade. Ideas are welcome.
Happiness Mark
 
kiinstructor said:
I think the razor blade works OK but theres gotta be something better. Im not sure what kind of tool your talking about. Im temped to try using a box cutter with the thin blades that snap off about every quarter of an inch to keep a sharp tip. All I know is I need something thin, smooth and sharp and something to hold on to for control. Thats the only problem with the stanley blade. Ideas are welcome.
Happiness Mark
Razor blades are really dangerous. I tape off half of the blade when using it.
I'll give the OLFA a try.
 
kiinstructor said:
I think the razor blade works OK but theres gotta be something better. Im not sure what kind of tool your talking about. Im temped to try using a box cutter with the thin blades that snap off about every quarter of an inch to keep a sharp tip. All I know is I need something thin, smooth and sharp and something to hold on to for control. Thats the only problem with the stanley blade. Ideas are welcome.
Happiness Mark

Once again folks: http://www.tigerproducts.com/store/product.php?productid=16150&cat=243&page=1

This tool is by far the best we've ever used or seen (other than a high-speed router set-up).

That blade and a sharpening stone will last you 10+ years.

We offer free tech support for this item as well :cool:
 
Last edited:
rhncue said:
I use a wire edged skew. You probably have 20 times the control over what people have using a razor. It takes 15 to 20 seconds to trim and shape a tip.

Dick
Dick do you have a pictur of thr skew?thanks
 
Varney Cues said:
As much as you like Molavia, and its indeed a fine tip...try the Sniper by Tiger...you'll never look back. Just make sure to have it installed correctly by a professional.

I have installed dozens of tip brands & I think the Tiger Sniper is the BEST tip I have ever played with. They hit firm, but grip the cueball like a soft tip. I have one on my playing Q & even break with it, about 1/2 the time. THEY DO NOT CHANGE SHAPE...JER
 
willard

krbsailing said:
Hey Varney,

Can you tell us what some of the pitfalls might be with an "incorrect" poorly done installation of a tip!?

I've started doing tips in the last year using a Willard Classic Tipper....any guidance would be much appreciated!!! :)

Thanks in advance,

Ken ;)
First of all, get rid of that Willard machine and buy a small cue lathe. You can buy one from Unique products that will do tips and ferruls for about 750. Well worth your money. I had and used for years one of those machines that you have, but the lathe will pay for its self in a hurry and you won't ruin a bunch of ferruls with it. It is easy to trim into the ferrul with the willards. Butterflycues
 
No S__t!?

It is extremely difficult to trim a tip down to the ferrule using the Willard....else it would be a great machine.

I've started placing a thin layer of tape on the ferrule so that when I begin to peel the tape away I can backoff the cutting :rolleyes:....seems to work better than without any other way than just using your eyes (although yours might be better than mine) -- I think sometimes I must be going blind :eek:

I'd love to find an inexpensive lathe -- I hear Grizzley has a pretty nice lathe for under $500!?
 
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