Moori III H,M or S

asmith74

asmith74

Where I pay homage
Silver Member
Hey all,
I just got a Moori III tip for my birthday but the person that gave it to me was unable to remember if they ordered a hard, medium or soft. Is there any way for a layman such as myself to tell what type of tip this is? The top reads only "Moori Q III Japan". I have a feeling the Q means hard but i'm not 100%. Thanks for the help...as always!

Andy
 
Q = quick = hard

edit - dangit, looks like Varney beat me by........... doh! 28 minutes...
 
asmith74 said:
Thank's guys, DAMN!! Now it looks like I have to buy a nice break\jump cue. :D
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Psssstttt...keep this under your hat...but I happen to know a guy when you're ready.:D
 
1pRoscoe said:
Not at all, it's a great playing tip...
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Ok, now i'm going to sound like a real dumba## but here goes. I've never shot with a hard tip as a player cue. Is there a real noticeable difference in feel, speed control and general cue ball control between a hard and medium tip? Just for background purposes i'm shooting with a Dominiak sweet 16 with a medium tip.

Thanks,
Andy
 
asmith74 said:
Ok, now i'm going to sound like a real dumba## but here goes. I've never shot with a hard tip as a player cue. Is there a real noticeable difference in feel, speed control and general cue ball control between a hard and medium tip? Just for background purposes i'm shooting with a Dominiak sweet 16 with a medium tip.

Thanks,
Andy
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Now this is just my personal opinion, but I feel that in using a harder tip it gives you the ability to get more action on the ball vs. a softer tip... You do have the risk of a miscue more often than with a softer tip, but it's just something that you need to try out and see if it's for you or not...

-Ross
friend of chalk...
 
1pRoscoe said:
Now this is just my personal opinion, but I feel that in using a harder tip it gives you the ability to get more action on the ball vs. a softer tip... You do have the risk of a miscue more often than with a softer tip, but it's just something that you need to try out and see if it's for you or not...

-Ross
friend of chalk...
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I agree with Ross on his comments BUT...depending on your speed, putting more action on the ball can cause more harm than good.

In my opinion, the unintentional application of spin (due to striking the CB in other than the intended spot) is one of the leading causes of missed shots among less speedy players.

I use a Moori medium and get WAY enough action on the CB.

I have never used a Moori Q so I have no clue how it hits or spins. But if it was me, I would take the Q in to my cue tech and see if he would trade you for a medium.

Regards,

Jim
 
I've grew up playing with LePro Mediums on all the Meuccis I've played. I recently went to a Moori Soft and could tell a HUGE difference. Even though I was used to the LePros I still miscued, but have yet to do it with the Moori. I could put a ton more English on the cue ball and move it around much more than I could with the LePro. But different strokes for different folks.
 
Moori's

Another nice thing about Moori's are that they are very consistant from tip to tip. Even after you change tips it's like the same ol' tip on there. Just make sure you reshape them after about 100 hits after installing a new tip. And never use a Tip-Pik. :D
 
av84fun said:
I agree with Ross on his comments BUT...depending on your speed, putting more action on the ball can cause more harm than good.

In my opinion, the unintentional application of spin (due to striking the CB in other than the intended spot) is one of the leading causes of missed shots among less speedy players.

I use a Moori medium and get WAY enough action on the CB.

I have never used a Moori Q so I have no clue how it hits or spins. But if it was me, I would take the Q in to my cue tech and see if he would trade you for a medium.

Regards,

Jim
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Great idea! I will give that a shot. Thanks.
 
From personal experience, if you use a Moori M for a month, you will then have a Moori Q. Once you break them in, they all end up about the same hardness after being banged on for awhile.
 
Shawn Armstrong said:
From personal experience, if you use a Moori M for a month, you will then have a Moori Q. Once you break them in, they all end up about the same hardness after being banged on for awhile.
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Just sand the Moori M after playing a few times and tip pik it, so it will stay medium hard.
 
WesleyW said:
Just sand the Moori M after playing a few times and tip pik it, so it will stay medium hard.
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I'll never Tip-Pik a Moori. It's like covering Prime Rib with A1 or HP sauce.

Tip Piks have been known to break down laminated tips. Something about glue not liking holes being poked through it.

If your tip mushrooms AT ALL, it means it's packing down, or getting harder. If you have to have your Moori S shaved down, it's getting closer to M grade. If you have to get your M shaved down due to mushrooming, it's that much closer to a Q.

You can't "unharden" your tip by scuffing and tip piking it. All you are doing is letting it hold chalk a little better
 
Shawn Armstrong said:
I'll never Tip-Pik a Moori. It's like covering Prime Rib with A1 or HP sauce.

Tip Piks have been known to break down laminated tips. Something about glue not liking holes being poked through it.

If your tip mushrooms AT ALL, it means it's packing down, or getting harder. If you have to have your Moori S shaved down, it's getting closer to M grade. If you have to get your M shaved down due to mushrooming, it's that much closer to a Q.

You can't "unharden" your tip by scuffing and tip piking it. All you are doing is letting it hold chalk a little better
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I Tip-Pik all my tips (sniper, moori), never break down the laminated tips. Tip-Pik only makes little holes and don't get through the leather, so it won't ruin the tip. After playing with my Moori M, the face feels really hard. I scuff it, after scuffing it, it feels more softer. It also play more softer, but only for a short time.
 
WesleyW said:
I Tip-Pik all my tips (sniper, moori), never break down the laminated tips. Tip-Pik only makes little holes and don't get through the leather, so it won't ruin the tip. After playing with my Moori M, the face feels really hard. I scuff it, after scuffing it, it feels more softer. It also play more softer, but only for a short time.
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A "tip pik" will indeed ruin a laminated tip. The layers are very small at the very top of the tip due to the radius. Poking holes will make the top layer or two become loose & fall off. I've seen way too many players with a big flat spot on the top of their layered tip due to a "tip pik". If you must tap your tip then use a tapper like a Williards that isn't as agressive...or even better yet just keep a small business card size of 100 grit and lightly scuff it...thats all thats needed.
 
Varney Cues said:
A "tip pik" will indeed ruin a laminated tip. The layers are very small at the very top of the tip due to the radius. Poking holes will make the top layer or two become loose & fall off. I've seen way too many players with a big flat spot on the top of their layered tip due to a "tip pik". If you must tap your tip then use a tapper like a Williards that isn't as agressive...or even better yet just keep a small business card size of 100 grit and lightly scuff it...thats all thats needed.
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I've never ruin my tips. But if you say so, lightly scuffing it, might be better. But I won't stop tip pikking my tips. It works fine for me.
 
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