ericksakti
Registered
Im getting a moori tip for my playing cue soon...
what Im thinking is...
which to choose...
soft tip or medium tip or quick tip>
what Im thinking is...
which to choose...
soft tip or medium tip or quick tip>
moori tip:which to choose
- Thread starter ericksakti
- Start date
Moori Tip
Make sure you are getting a Morri III
They are a better tip than the older Moori design.
I would go with a medium this is the one I use on my playing cue.
I use a quick on the break cue.
They play nice but make sure you chalk after each shot.
Like anything else. It will take some adjustment.
Make sure you are getting a Morri III
They are a better tip than the older Moori design.
I would go with a medium this is the one I use on my playing cue.
I use a quick on the break cue.
They play nice but make sure you chalk after each shot.
Like anything else. It will take some adjustment.
my 2 cents
My tip I use atm is a Moori soft (older version I would imagine, never heard of this Moori 3 mumbo jumbo). The last one I used was a medium. I would go for soft from now on having tried both. The soft will hold chalk alot better then the medium tip will and will avoid "glazing" which requires reshaping/roughing up. Sure the soft will mushroom a touch more then the medium (although the soft is still a pretty hard tip really) but it is easy to take the sides off the tip and keep it in good shape when it starts to go. When it is all said and done I think the soft will actually last me longer due to the fact I dont have to sand it nearly as much as I did the medium to keep it holding the chalk well.
My tip I use atm is a Moori soft (older version I would imagine, never heard of this Moori 3 mumbo jumbo). The last one I used was a medium. I would go for soft from now on having tried both. The soft will hold chalk alot better then the medium tip will and will avoid "glazing" which requires reshaping/roughing up. Sure the soft will mushroom a touch more then the medium (although the soft is still a pretty hard tip really) but it is easy to take the sides off the tip and keep it in good shape when it starts to go. When it is all said and done I think the soft will actually last me longer due to the fact I dont have to sand it nearly as much as I did the medium to keep it holding the chalk well.
I've tried all three (s, m, q) and it seems to me that they all respond the same so far as English, draw, etc.
So I use the Moori III Q which holds its shape longer. Get Moori III at...
http://www.cuestik.com
(Tips and Accessories - Moori - $13.00 ea.)
BTW - I had trouble using the traditional shaping tools (which use a razor blade to trim the tip) to initially shape the Moori tip. The razor blade tended to dig into the tip. The "Quick Tip" nickel or dime shapers work best. Use with coarse sandpaper for initial shaping, then finer sandpaper to re-shape after play. Get those here...
http://playpool.com/store/shop.php
So I use the Moori III Q which holds its shape longer. Get Moori III at...
http://www.cuestik.com
(Tips and Accessories - Moori - $13.00 ea.)
BTW - I had trouble using the traditional shaping tools (which use a razor blade to trim the tip) to initially shape the Moori tip. The razor blade tended to dig into the tip. The "Quick Tip" nickel or dime shapers work best. Use with coarse sandpaper for initial shaping, then finer sandpaper to re-shape after play. Get those here...
http://playpool.com/store/shop.php
I sell thousands of Moori Tips per year. By far the Medium is the most popular. But everyone swears by the one they play with. I have one very good player/cuemaker who only buys the soft Moori III. Others will only put on the hard Quick Moori III. If you like a Lepro then go with the Medium. If you favor a Triangle go with the Soft or go to the Sniper tip. If you want something a little harder than the LePro then go with the Quick.
Good Luck,
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
Good Luck,
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
Try the new Kamui tip medium. 
I played with Morrie medium for years. Great tip.
I played with Morrie medium for years. Great tip.
Celtic said:
Celtic,
What do you think is the best way to fix the mushrooming? My tip has a little mushroom (Moori medium) and I'm not sure what to do. Thanks.
Williebetmore said:
On the following link, get the "PM60 - Porper's Mushroom Graser" (Sounds like something you would use in a kitchen
)Anyway it works great. Just be careful to adjust it so it does not scratch your ferrule. May want to practice on an old cue first...
http://www.poolndarts.com/store.cfm/cat/46.cfm
Williebetmore said:
Well, as was linked by Billy Bob there are tools that can fix tips that mushroom. I had a tip tool that actually slides onto the tip and by spinning the thing and pressing down it would cut the side of the tip that was mushroomed off and therefore the mushroom would be gone. Problem with the tool is it put alot of pressure on the tip in a twisting motion that could spin a well applied tip off.
Now I tend to use a variety of sand paper from course to very very fine. I use a piece about 2 inches by 2 inches and fold it in half such that the grain is on the outside. Now you have a think 2 X 1 peice of sand paper and by holding it with your thumb at the bottom of the paper pointing lengthwise along the paper you can alter the curve to the exact curve of the ferrule by differing pressure. With that done start with courser grains (if it is badly mushroomed) and with the sand paper not hitting the ferrule sand the edge of the tip carefully. As it gets closer to the ferrule and closer to being straight from the ferrule switch to the finer grained snadpapers to give yourself better control and protect your ferrule, also the trick is in the end not to have a roughed up sides of your tip. When the tip is very close to perfect switched to a very very fine grained sand paper, I dont know grits, I eyeball it but something that is hardly past normal paper. Using a small piece , about 1 inch by 1 inch I fold that in half and then put it around the tip lengthwise, holding the fine sandpaper over the edge of the tip with your thumb and forefinger you can sand the edge of the tip to the exact edge of the ferrule, the sandpaper you will be using at this point wont really hurt the ferrule as it is so fine. This last sandpaper will smooth the edge of the tip. Once that is done, I lick my thumb, and run it along the edge of the tip to moisten it abit to the point it just gets darker on the edge, dont go slobbering all over it.
Now you will want to burnish the tip alot, if you have the Miz's leather super tool burnishing thing you are golden, it owns. Otherwise you can use a bill of money, a small tear of cardboard off a pack of smokes, something that will allow you to get friction without doing any damage. Take the burnishing thing, fold it around the shaft once, using moderate pressure (not a whole lot, think holding a pen) you want to stroke the thing up and down the shaft really really fast and produce ALOT of heat. I get blisters almost every time on my thumb from burns. You want to get the shaft really hot and keep burnishing it, it will seal the edge of the tip and keep it from mushrooming again for a long time. Also combined with the saliva and the glue on the bottom of the tip at the ferrule the heat will make sure the tip is still locked onto that ferrule well.
Thats my long drawn out process. I am sure Blud and all other cuemakers with lathes are laughing at me now.
Good post Celtic. I do pretty much the same thing with progressively finer grades of sandpaper 'cept I trim the tip on a flat surface. I tape a straight edge (ruler will do) to a piece of sandpaper, so that the strip showing is not wider than the height of the tip, then lay the threaded end of the shaft on some magazines and press the tip right up against the straight edge and start grinding the mushroom out while rotating the shaft.
-Roger
-Roger
Celtics way will work, but be careful that you don't separate the layers. Never use one of those tapered mushroom compressors. You can twist the tip right off if it jams. An all that tool does is just make the tip soft and spongey. Best advice is get a local repairman to put it on with his lathe and get him to trim off the mushroom. I trim the mushroom off for free if I put on the tip, so maybe your local guy will too.
Chris
www.internationalcuemakers.com
www.cuesmith.com
Chris
www.internationalcuemakers.com
www.cuesmith.com
The moori medium is a great tip. Played a lot with them. So too is the moori quick, definitely "faster" and great english too. You also might like to try out the Talisman tips, which I use on three of my shafts at present. All are the Talisman hard. Absolutely need to chalk after each shot, but they perform extremely well. Watch out for miscues if you don't chalk well... Of the moories and Talismans, and I've had all the moories on my shafts, I'd have to go with the Talisman... Love the way it plays. My two cents worth.
drivermaker
Banned
Flex said:
With my two cents added, we might have something to put in the piggy bank.
I've used both Moori's and Talisman but have switched and may never use anything else other than Hercules or Hercules Balabushka's. I just love those babies.
I've been using the Talisman WB Hard tips for several years, just put on a Moori Med to try it. Good tip, but I'd agree with Flex - I'll probably go back to the Talisman WB when I re-tip. Love the hit, no mushroooming or need to fuss with it, and lasts forever.Flex said:
Walt in VA
laugh, no
Celtic, no laughs from me sir.
I use a differant method when triming tips, [than any of the other cuemakers or cue-repair guys], and rounding the top to whatever dia., or shape.
First, when triming the sides, i have a live center that will cup the crown of the tip. Doing this will insure that you will not tear, stretch or break down the layers or leather fibers within the tips make up. I apply pressue to the top of the tip, then and only then, trim the mushroom sides. If it's a new tip, making the first side cut, tells me how hard the tip will be, and how much to tuck the side and top rim in at a smaller dia than your base of the tip. By doing this, [with the sides rolled in], when it mushrooms, the sides will become straight and hard.
For the crown, I round it with my carpet knife and then brush/sand it to the proper shape.
TIPS,
I have my own layered tips, called " BLUD TIPS", I have had not the first person complain about my tips. I have had very good and postive feed back from all. This past week-end, I re-placed about 6 or 7 moories, [ moories are $40.00, mine are $30.00],with my tips. ALL of the players came by and said they really did like my tips.
Looking at a moorie from the top, when it's crowned [sanded for shape and play], you see first a small dot of leather and then a glue line, then leather, then glue, and so on. The glue they use is much thicker than what I use. My tips show little or no glue lines looking at the top when sanded and shaped ready for play.
With the moorie tip, you have glue showing and you chalking leather and glue. With mine, your chalking the leather tip. They come in med, med-hard, and hard. i sell mainly the med.
On a scale from 1 to 10, med., are about a 6.5 to 7........
Write or call for more info.
830-232-5991
bludworth@direcway,com
thanks
blud
Celtic said:
Celtic, no laughs from me sir.
I use a differant method when triming tips, [than any of the other cuemakers or cue-repair guys], and rounding the top to whatever dia., or shape.
First, when triming the sides, i have a live center that will cup the crown of the tip. Doing this will insure that you will not tear, stretch or break down the layers or leather fibers within the tips make up. I apply pressue to the top of the tip, then and only then, trim the mushroom sides. If it's a new tip, making the first side cut, tells me how hard the tip will be, and how much to tuck the side and top rim in at a smaller dia than your base of the tip. By doing this, [with the sides rolled in], when it mushrooms, the sides will become straight and hard.
For the crown, I round it with my carpet knife and then brush/sand it to the proper shape.
TIPS,
I have my own layered tips, called " BLUD TIPS", I have had not the first person complain about my tips. I have had very good and postive feed back from all. This past week-end, I re-placed about 6 or 7 moories, [ moories are $40.00, mine are $30.00],with my tips. ALL of the players came by and said they really did like my tips.
Looking at a moorie from the top, when it's crowned [sanded for shape and play], you see first a small dot of leather and then a glue line, then leather, then glue, and so on. The glue they use is much thicker than what I use. My tips show little or no glue lines looking at the top when sanded and shaped ready for play.
With the moorie tip, you have glue showing and you chalking leather and glue. With mine, your chalking the leather tip. They come in med, med-hard, and hard. i sell mainly the med.
On a scale from 1 to 10, med., are about a 6.5 to 7........
Write or call for more info.
830-232-5991
bludworth@direcway,com
thanks
blud
ericksakti said:
I don't know a lot about tips, but I do know I prefer a softer tip. I found I really like the tip that Murray Tucker put on my new cue so I sent him an email to find out what it was so I could put the same tip on when it was used up. He replied that it was a Moori III medium. This surprised me because I thought it played softer than medium. At any rate, I think I'll stick with a Moori III medium and replace my other tips with it as they wear.
blud said:
Just curious ...
You don't literally make these tips by hand, do you?
blud said:
The glue thing is bang on and that is why I would never use a moori medium again after getting this soft. The medium chalked like crap and you could see the glue lines just like ya say. I ended up pulverizing my tip almost every time I played in order to get it to hold chalk and not have those concentric circles. Every time I mis-que'd with that medium moori I could look at the tip and sure enough my contact point where the tip slipped was right on one of those lines. The soft moori seems to do better for me, not sure why but I dont have the glue issue or the misque problems. Of course if your tips use less glue then a guy can get the best of both worlds, a harder tip that still holds chalk real well and keeps its shape.
tips
I did at one time. I now out source them. It's taken me 20 plus years to get someone to follow my directions and build what I want.
They are made to my very tight spec's. I furnish the glue and the top quality leather, my friends do the rest for me. I send the leather to a guy who splits the leather, so all layers are the same thickness.
Hardness of the tips, as stated, med, med/hard, hard, and a few extra/hard, all take and hold chalk good.
blud
catscradle said:
I did at one time. I now out source them. It's taken me 20 plus years to get someone to follow my directions and build what I want.
They are made to my very tight spec's. I furnish the glue and the top quality leather, my friends do the rest for me. I send the leather to a guy who splits the leather, so all layers are the same thickness.
Hardness of the tips, as stated, med, med/hard, hard, and a few extra/hard, all take and hold chalk good.
blud
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