My predator cloth only lasted 4.5 months

Bob Jewett said:
If he uses a vacuum cleaner there is little reason to put Woolite on the table. Well, maybe if he eats pizza and French fries while he plays. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
vacuum removes chalk/dirt but doesn't actually clean the cloth itself. woolite does. sweat/oils from people's hands need to be cleaned from the cloth fibers. just vac'ing won't do that.
 
Last edited:
garczar said:
vacuum removes chalk/dirt but doesn't actually clean the cloth itself. woolite does. sweat/oils from people's hands need to be cleaned from the cloth fibers. just vac'ing won't do that.
Click to expand...
I agree. I keep my table pretty clean but the occasional damp cloth (with or without woolite) really takes it to the next level.
 
To put this into perspective…

The pool hall in which I spend far too much time has 22 diamond tables. Previously all covered in HR 860.

They do very little in the way of maintenance/cleaning of the cloth on a daily/weekly basis, but instead, recover every 12 months.

When Simonis became difficult/impossible to get, Six of the 9 foot tables were recovered in Predator cloth. The remaining 16 bar boxes were done with Andy. I don’t recall the specifics of each cloth, but I know the intent was to match the characteristics of the HR 860 as closely as possible.

After 12 months of very heavy commercial/league/tournament play, I would not have considered any of the cloth to be “worn out“. It was all simply replaced, because that‘s what they do in order to maintain their model of a high-end pool room. It’s important to note that these tables probably average 80 to 100 hours of play for a week. 4,000 - 5000 hours of hard commercial play between recovering.

From my personal perspective, after a year, neither the Predator nor the Andy matched the longevity of the Simonis, though the Predator was definitely better than the Andy, and was closer to the play of the HR 860 overall as well. But again, I wouldn’t have characterized any of them as having been anywhere near “worn out“.

I imagine that different people have different standards when it comes to their expectations for the cloth on their home tables, but I really doubt that any cloth could be “worn out“ after less than five months of play in a home environment.
 
judochoke said:
Well i know that i was a big problem with my draw shots. But i think i have solved that problem with putting a thin sheet of material down when I’m going to shoot my draw shots, (like a break shot pad) so the new cloth will be protected from my cue tip. I have used oxy-clean in a bowl of warm water, with a micro soft towel, wrung out pretty good, and do the table in four sections. Comes out pretty clean. Why do i lose my draw stroke?????? Don’t know, but i think i have cured myself of that, as I’m drawing the ball well now, with no launches.

OK, I ADMIT IT, I PRETTY MUCH SELF DESTRUCTED THE HOLES IN THE CLOTH. 😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢

i try to shoot 50 long draw shots a day, but with a pad down, i shoud be fine.
Click to expand...
It's good to have the long straight in draw shot in your arsenal but keep in mind that great players rarely have to play that shot because they have the correct angles.
 
Texas Carom Club said:
i really dont get this fascination with a big manly draw stroke . its rarely needed over hyped and obviously destructive
Click to expand...

Hey, someone needs to know how good you are, and if you don't draw the cueball at least a table length each shot the onlookers will think you are not as good as the gorilla smashing balls off the table next to you. There is a newish player in my pool hall, nice guy, but he hits most shots way too hard, like way way too hard. I nicknamed him "The Barbarian" because he acts like he wants to smash the table and balls with a giant axe. He is also about the size of one, so that helped LOL We are now working on a custom JB case with an axe on it LOL
 
David in FL said:
To put this into perspective…

The pool hall in which I spend far too much time has 22 diamond tables. Previously all covered in HR 860.

They do very little in the way of maintenance/cleaning of the cloth on a daily/weekly basis, but instead, recover every 12 months.

When Simonis became difficult/impossible to get, Six of the 9 foot tables were recovered in Predator cloth. The remaining 16 bar boxes were done with Andy. I don’t recall the specifics of each cloth, but I know the intent was to match the characteristics of the HR 860 as closely as possible.

After 12 months of very heavy commercial/league/tournament play, I would not have considered any of the cloth to be “worn out“. It was all simply replaced, because that‘s what they do in order to maintain their model of a high-end pool room. It’s important to note that these tables probably average 80 to 100 hours of play for a week. 4,000 - 5000 hours of hard commercial play between recovering.

From my personal perspective, after a year, neither the Predator nor the Andy matched the longevity of the Simonis, though the Predator was definitely better than the Andy, and was closer to the play of the HR 860 overall as well. But again, I wouldn’t have characterized any of them as having been anywhere near “worn out“.

I imagine that different people have different standards when it comes to their expectations for the cloth on their home tables, but I really doubt that any cloth could be “worn out“ after less than five months of play in a home environment.
Click to expand...
I play in a big, busy room. The ANDY988 they used lasted every bit as long as the 860 before it. Plus the 988 didn't slow down as much from the humidity. I can't tell 988 and 860HR apart from playing on it. Both are better than reg. 860 imo.
 
judochoke said:
Predator cloth
Click to expand...

Cloth looks to be in good shape, but you need to maybe check your cue to make sure the ferrule is flush with the tip. Even on badly hit shots you should not be ripping the cloth like that, unless you are really trying to put holes in the thing.
 
judochoke said:
I have a tendency to lose my draw stoke. When its gone, it gets ugly. I freak out, and shoot at ball after ball, mostly launching the ball off the table. And i just keep shooting and shooting. It’s gets very bad, until i rediscover my draw stoke and i calm down. so i have contributed somewhat to the wear and tear on the cloth, as I’m hitting so low on the cue ball.
Click to expand...

Like the famous phrase from "The Curious Case of Benjamin Button":: there comes a time where you have to let go.
 
maybe try learning to have a level stroke. then its hard to send the cue ball flying. oh and learn to hit the cue ball where you are aiming to hit it.

then maybe start to go down to a low hit.

plus more speed in your stroke is just as important as hitting low for draw.

before you can hit long draw shots you need to be able to hit the same length shot and stop the cue ball without hitting very low.
then you can slowly work your way down on the cueball. and get your draw a few inches at a time

it is useless to draw a ton if you dont know how far it is going to come back.
 
You should never have to apply any kind of cleaning agent to a pool table cloth if you keep it covered and vacuum on semi regular basis. Stay away from using Master, Kamui or any other really messy chalk. I started using Taom on my cloth and it has really reduced the chalk residue on the cloth and the balls.
 
rexus31 said:
Is this thread a joke?
Click to expand...

It may knot be, but this is is a good yarn if you want a thread joke:

Two strings walk into a bar, bartender says “Hey we don’t server your kind here, get out.” Outside one of the strings says “ I have an idea, here help me”. The string proceeds to tie himself up and then dishevels the threads at the top of his head and at his feet. The string then walks back into the bar and orders a drink, bartender looks and says “hey aren’t you that string I just threw out?” String says “ No , I am a frayed knot!”
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top