My review of Diamond Clear

Hello David,

I may have a solution to your problem; how to preserve your paint and keep from opening the lid,
exposing your paint to oxygen.
This system requires two vessels/containers, one larger than the other.
The smaller container holds your paint and sits below the larger container.
The larger container sits above the smaller and contains your Inert Shielding Gas (ISG).
There is a tap at the bottom edge of the samll can to draw your paint from.
This can is air-tight except for a hose that runs to the large can (above).
As you draw paint, it creates a vacuum in the can that draws ISG from the tank above.
The tank above is larger to ensure that the paint never sees oxygen until it's on the cue.
The large can is vented to avoid vacuum. It will draw air but that's OK.
The air never reaches the paint because you have the ISG barrier.
OK, you've used all your paint and the small can is empty other than it's full of ISG.
Now figure a way to fill the small can THRU the valve that you draw from.
As the can fills with new paint it is pushing the ISG back up into the larger can.
It in turn is pushing the oxygen it's collected back out the vent.

There are a lot of ways to tweak this system to fit your needs.
You can mount a level/sight glass to the side of the 'paint' can to see how much you have left.
If the vent is properly sized in the ISG can, you may never lose any.
The ISG will always be on the bottom of the ISG can and the oxygen will always be on top
until it's pushed back out the vent when you fill the paint can.
Of course, all hardware and components must be compatible with the ISG and your paint.
If you want me to think on this further, just give me a shout.

HTHs, KJ
 
KJ Cues said:
Hello David,

I may have a solution to your problem; how to preserve your paint and keep from opening the lid,
exposing your paint to oxygen.
This system requires two vessels/containers, one larger than the other.
The smaller container holds your paint and sits below the larger container.
The larger container sits above the smaller and contains your Inert Shielding Gas (ISG).
There is a tap at the bottom edge of the samll can to draw your paint from.
This can is air-tight except for a hose that runs to the large can (above).
As you draw paint, it creates a vacuum in the can that draws ISG from the tank above.
The tank above is larger to ensure that the paint never sees oxygen until it's on the cue.
The large can is vented to avoid vacuum. It will draw air but that's OK.
The air never reaches the paint because you have the ISG barrier.
OK, you've used all your paint and the small can is empty other than it's full of ISG.
Now figure a way to fill the small can THRU the valve that you draw from.
As the can fills with new paint it is pushing the ISG back up into the larger can.
It in turn is pushing the oxygen it's collected back out the vent.

There are a lot of ways to tweak this system to fit your needs.
You can mount a level/sight glass to the side of the 'paint' can to see how much you have left.
If the vent is properly sized in the ISG can, you may never lose any.
The ISG will always be on the bottom of the ISG can and the oxygen will always be on top
until it's pushed back out the vent when you fill the paint can.
Of course, all hardware and components must be compatible with the ISG and your paint.
If you want me to think on this further, just give me a shout.

HTHs, KJ
Click to expand...

Good idea KJ

It sounds more complicated than it is.

You could even gravity feed the material back into the small can with enough elevation. I don't think it would take very much either.


Royce
 
Thank You Dale,
Your post is evidence that I should have chosen my words more carefully.
Let's substitute the word 'air' for 'oxygen'.
The moisture you speak of is in the air in the form of humidity.
If the air is barred, the suspended moisture is barred.
Better?

While I'm here I have a question or two for Dave.
In your initial post you state:

"It does take awhile to cure, as it is a 1 part clear coat and uses moisture to cure it."

"If sprayed, it will release the isocyanates".

I'm open to correction and I don't work with your chosen clear but I do know a little about auto-clear.
Until I'm shown differently, there are no isocyanates in your brush-on clear-coat so no,
ISO wouldn't be released when spraying as opposed to brush-on. There's none there.
Isocyanate is a bi-product of auto-clear that does not exist until the two components are combined.
A reaction is initiated and one of the resulting gases is isocyanate.
ISO would be present whether it were brushed on or sprayed.
Since your Diamond Clear is a 1-part paint, where does the ISO come from?
 
Last edited:
KJ Cues said:
Thank You Dale,
Your post is evidence that I should have chosen my words more carefully.
Let's substitute the word 'air' for 'oxygen'.
The moisture you speak of is in the air in the form of humidity.
If the air is barred, the suspended moisture is barred.
Better?

While I'm here I have a question or two for Dave.
In your initial post you state:

"It does take awhile to cure, as it is a 1 part clear coat and uses moisture to cure it."

"If sprayed, it will release the isocyanates".

I'm open to correction and I don't work with your chosen clear but I do know a little about auto-clear.
Until I'm shown differently, there are no isocyanates in your brush-on clear-coat so no,
ISO wouldn't be released when spraying as opposed to brush-on. There's none there.
Isocyanate is a bi-product of auto-clear that does not exist until the two components are combined.
A reaction is initiated and one of the resulting gases is isocyanate.
ISO would be present whether it were brushed on or sprayed.
Since your Diamond Clear is a 1-part paint, where does the ISO come from?
Click to expand...

You are exactly correct...

Merely pointing out that 30% humidity would have the same effect whether in
air/Argon/Neon/ or Krypton.

Dale
 
KJ Cues said:
?

While I'm here I have a question or two for Dave.
In your initial post you state:

"It does take awhile to cure, as it is a 1 part clear coat and uses moisture to cure it."

"If sprayed, it will release the isocyanates".

I'm open to correction and I don't work with your chosen clear but I do know a little about auto-clear.
Until I'm shown differently, there are no isocyanates in your brush-on clear-coat so no,
ISO wouldn't be released when spraying as opposed to brush-on. There's none there.
Isocyanate is a bi-product of auto-clear that does not exist until the two components are combined.
A reaction is initiated and one of the resulting gases is isocyanate.
ISO would be present whether it were brushed on or sprayed.
Since your Diamond Clear is a 1-part paint, where does the ISO come from?
Click to expand...

KJ, that is a very interesting concept for dispensing it. Will that stop the humidity from activating it? I don't really know anything about inert gases and such. As far as your question, It lists it on the can under the warnings that it contains petroleum distillates and isocyantes. I have to believe them ... :grin:
Dave
 
Yeah, I agree, if it says that the product contains Isocyanates then you have to believe them.
That's not something they'd joke about. It suggests to me that they are pre-catallizing the paint
prior to closing the lid at the factory. As soon as it saw air-baring humidity, it would start to flash.

I did try to down-load the MDS sheet but it wasn't happening so I have no idea of it's contents.
4 days seems like a long time for it to cure though. It may be a 'not so hot' mix.
I think also that these 'barrier' gases are worth looking into.
If they're not letting any air in, I don't see humidity getting in either.

My 'off the top of my head' system is pretty simple actually, nothing elaborate or costly,
though it could be made to be.
In my example you have say, a qt can holding the paint and maybe a gal. can above it holding the gas.
That gives you a 400% safety factor and I don't see any air getting by it.
Again, the gases are worth a look for this application.

KJ
 
Your review after a year

Dave I am planning on placing an order for the DiamondFinish clear coat. Is it still the finish that you thought it was or have you moved on to something else? Also you talked about a sealer you were using from Home Depot. Would you care to divulge a name? I am in the middle of my first refinish. Its to late for that. But, I will have my first cue that I am starting on.

Thanks, Jim
 
James Sarenich said:
Dave I am planning on placing an order for the DiamondFinish clear coat. Is it still the finish that you thought it was or have you moved on to something else? Also you talked about a sealer you were using from Home Depot. Would you care to divulge a name? I am in the middle of my first refinish. Its to late for that. But, I will have my first cue that I am starting on.

Thanks, Jim
Click to expand...

Jim, I am still using it right now but I am looking for an alternative finish. The only issue is that once it's opened, it starts to cure. I break it down into 4 oz jars right away and it seems ok, but once I open the jar and start using it, I only get about 2-2.5 ozs out before the rest gets sludgy and hardens. I don't do a lot of cues, so a few weeks go by between uses and then I have to throw it away. I have tried Bloxygen, but it didn't work. So basically I'm paying for a quart, but only able to use a pint.
As far as the sealer, I had a gallon of waterbased wood floor sealer that HD sells, kinda generic. I also use either system 3 or Max1618 epoxy for the sealer, depends on my mood.
Dave
 
Thanks Dave, you did a really helpful review of this product. I see you are looking at building a u v booth. Good luck! hopefully you will write up a good review of this experience for the rest of us to learn.

Thanks again, Jim
 
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