Need adapter to put rear chuck on my jet lathe

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JC

Coos Cues
Who can I get to build this for me? Our local machine shops are nill and I don't have the skill. Too bad, so sad.

Thanks,

JC
 
Who can I get to build this for me? Our local machine shops are nill and I don't have the skill. Too bad, so sad.



Thanks,



JC



What model jet do you have?


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3512766d5ff254aa0f2aabc881af12bd.jpg


Very simple and accurate.


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What model jet do you have?


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It's an old 1236PY made in Tiawan. It has external threads on the output and I want to put one of Hightowers large bore chucks on it. The inner bore is too rough to make accurate inside collets. The threads look like 45mm 1.5 on it. I want the chuck to run outside the cover because I don't want to run it with the gears exposed.

JC
 
It's an old 1236PY made in Tiawan. It has external threads on the output and I want to put one of Hightowers large bore chucks on it. The inner bore is too rough to make accurate inside collets. The threads look like 45mm 1.5 on it. I want the chuck to run outside the cover because I don't want to run it with the gears exposed.

JC
http://blog.sterlingmachinery.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/A1820.jpg
Is that it?
Looks like a narrow head stock .

I made sure I could chuck up 25" on mine. Makes life easier when chucking shafts and butts .

4-jaw ( not the 3-jaw ) Taig chuck and a sleeve that goes over the back spindle.
8-indexed set screws . No threads to the spindle . If it's threaded, you cannot zero it easily.
With a slightly oversized sleeve, you can chuck on 25"-30" test bar and set those set screws till the bar indicates to your satisfaction.

You need to draw the sleeve that goes over the rear spindle .
Then go from there.
No drawing, the machine shop can't do it .
You can send them the Taig chuck so they can machine the 32TPI threads to hold it. I know of a machine shop . They made two for me. One for a Clausing and one for an Eisen. But, I drew the part.
 
Who can I get to build this for me? Our local machine shops are nill and I don't have the skill. Too bad, so sad.

Thanks,

JC

If you're set on an out-board rear chuck, I'm not going to try and talk you out of it.
It's your money and you're welcome to spend it any way you like.
A rear chuck is an option but not the only one. I have 7 lathes and not one rear chuck.
A rear chuck set-up will cost you $200/250 to get you started.
I accomplish the same end result for about 25 cents. Think rubber 'O'-ring.
It centers the non-chucked end of the cue from INSIDE the spindle.
No set-screws, no chance of marks, no heavy add-ons. Again, it's your money.

I'm anticipating a response in the form of the question: "That's fine for handles and
related joint work but what about when doing jnt-work on shafts? How do you center/support
the tip end at the rear of the spindle? They don't make 'O'rings that big."
True (possibly), but they do make rubber bottle-stoppers that big.
Drill a hole in the center of it and you're good to go. That one may cost you $1.
Keep it simple.

KJ
 
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Thanks for the input so far guys. I have made a number of support collets that fit inside the bore for holding various sized pieces. The inner bore is pretty rough and I'm nervous sliding any finished part into it without a protective outer centering sleeve of some kind. I really need to hone it out some but don't have the proper hone on hand.

I am thinking of a rear chuck to build delrin supports that will both slide into the bore and anchor firmly at the rear for accurately supporting the rear of shorter pieces that I'm either coring, boring or threading. Like the ones Barringer shows in his coring video.

On a happier note, I just love my Kress router I bought from Jeff Forney. The setup for the big score.

Here are photos of this lathe

P1090895 [800x600].JPG
P1090894 [800x600].JPG
P1090896 [800x600].JPG
P1090897 [800x600].JPG

JC
 
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JC,

Any chance that the jaws on your chuck are reversible? If so, I'd suggest that you do it.
Less chance of busting your knuckles when working close to the chuck.
That and you'll be grabbing a larger portion of your work/collet.

If they are not reversible, put your money on a 6-jaw adjustable.
That would be money well spent.

KJ
 
JC,

Any chance that the jaws on your chuck are reversible? If so, I'd suggest that you do it.
Less chance of busting your knuckles when working close to the chuck.
That and you'll be grabbing a larger portion of your work/collet.

If they are not reversible, put your money on a 6-jaw adjustable.
That would be money well spent.

KJ

Thanks KJ for all the advice. Actually I put those jaws in that chuck yesterday to see if they would run truer than the wider ones that stick out farther which have .008 runout. I Had rotated them around to different slots and still had the runout so I stuck those in there just to see what they did. I think a new front chuck is really what I need as you said. The lathe came with a 4 jaw chuck that's pretty precise but for cue building who needs the setup headache?

There are so many to choose from, do you have any recommendations for a balance between quality and price on a six jaw?

I had to smile when you mentioned the O-ring. My dad was a very early internet blogger and this came to my sick mind, don't ask me why. He wrote these words of wisdom 20 years ago. Dad was a visionary, he even got Trump in there!

Willy Chaplin - Bruce Madison

No. 49 - No. 170

The poor man's viagra.

June 11, 1998

The poor man's viagra.

Any man who has not been living in a cave has heard of the new "wonder" drug called viagra. Billed as a cure for impotence...the inability to get or sustain an erection...this substance has been selling like hot cakes ever since it was first announced. This is true despite the facts that:
The drug company manufacturing it has been careful to point out that it is NOT an aphrodisiac...that is, it will not produce sexual desire if none exists.
The afflicted male must take the drug one and a half to two hours before attempting intercourse (or whatever)...somewhat a damper on spontaneity, I would say.
It costs ten dollars a dose...or more.
At least six men have died from side effects of the drug.
Bob Dole was one of the test subjects.
Jay Leno makes jokes about it almost every night.
Like most men, I noticed when I was in my forties that although my sexual desire had not ebbed in the slightest since my youth, my ability to perform was significantly reduced. If anything, age and experience had INCREASED my desire to engage in sexual activity. This despite the myth...and I truly believe it is a myth...that men reach their sexual "peak" at twenty and women at forty. It seems to me that I had just BEGUN to understand how to make love with a woman by the latter age. No longer cursed with the impetuosity of youth and blessed with a compatible mate, I was willing and able to take the time and effort necessary to insure that we both had wonderful experiences...nearly every time.
These truths, more than anything else, kept the fires burning hotly to the present day. As it became more difficult for me to maintain a hard-on for extended periods of time, I relied more on foreplay and non-penetration activity to get us both to the point where orgasmic coupling...more or less in unison...was possible without my dick getting soft halfway home. I don't mean to imply that I did this all myself. This was by no means true. It required a great deal of cooperation...engendered by open and frank discussions of what was going on physically with our bodies...to come to this mutually satisfying state of affairs. Perhaps having matured a bit beyond the swagger and bluster of testosterone induced youthful madness helped me to get over the embarrassment of admitting that I didn't always know what the **** I was doing. Still, without the active assistance of my beloved wife, I probably would still be pretending that I was the hottest lover on the block (rather than BEING the hottest!).

As time went on, however, age overcame desire and it became increasingly difficult for me to get it up and keep it up, even during carefully timed and extended intervals of love making. As this got progressively worse, I began to get frustrated. My hands and mouth and brain still worked fine, by my dick simply wouldn't cooperate!

Then I discovered...the RUBBER BAND! Having heard of...but never seen...a device known as a cock-ring, I assumed (correctly) that it was little more than a fitted elastic band which, when placed around the base of the penis, helps keep the blood which maintains an erection from leaking out too fast. After all, there is a sphincter muscle in the penis which is supposed to do the same thing. Unfortunately, this muscle gets a little worn out and defective with age. This is the proximate cause of impotence and...guess what?...a rubber band, wrapped twice around the base of my cock, gave just enough assistance so that I could maintain an erection as long as I needed to.

Now, like viagra, this device is NOT an aphrodisiac, but consider:

The rubber band can be put on JUST when you want and need it. No hour and a half waiting period, no worry about a drug "wearing off" before you get a chance to use it.
It costs less than a nickel and can be used repeatedly. In fact, since newspapers are delivered these days with a small rubber band around them, if you are a newspaper reader you can get all you need for free!
No man has EVER died from a rubber band wrapped around his dick!
Bob Dole wouldn't put a rubber band around his penis if his life depended upon it!
There are some noticeable side effects. When being removed (I always remove it shortly after orgasm), you are likely to catch a couple of hairs...ouch! If you are very careful (I am not), this won't happen. But, hey, they grow back!
Also, as I have grown older (I am 62 at present), I find that I need two, or even occasionally three, rubber bands to do the trick. So, maybe a dime's worth (but, I AM a newspaper reader!).

Also, Jay Leno might make jokes about YOU if he finds out you use a rubber band instead of viagra!

But, here's a dirty secret. As I presume many men have discovered about viagra (or any other drug or device that enhances sexual performance), the very thought of using the sexual aid...once it has worked for you a few times...helps to get one aroused. It becomes a de facto aphrodisiacs by conditioned response. Heck, when I see a newspaper wrapped with rubber band these days, I get a secret flash of desire.

So men, cast off your dependence on dangerous and costly drugs. Let Donald Trump and Bob Dole eat those little pills. Nobody need know but you and your partner. If she (or he) laughs at you the first few times...it does look a little funny at first...they'll get over it when you perform like you used to or, even better, like you never were able to before. Then, they too will get that little thrill from the rubber-banded newspaper.

Talk to you later...




Have a great day!

JC
 
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I would extend the rear then have a sleeve/chuck.

And if you really want to smoothen inside the spindle, bore it.
 
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Thanks for the input so far guys. I have made a number of support collets that fit inside the bore for holding various sized pieces. The inner bore is pretty rough and I'm nervous sliding any finished part into it without a protective outer centering sleeve of some kind. I really need to hone it out some but don't have the proper hone on hand.

I am thinking of a rear chuck to build delrin supports that will both slide into the bore and anchor firmly at the rear for accurately supporting the rear of shorter pieces that I'm either coring, boring or threading. Like the ones Barringer shows in his coring video.

On a happier note, I just love my Kress router I bought from Jeff Forney. The setup for the big score.

Here are photos of this lathe




JC

FWIW - I have exactly the same lathe - no dust control tho - and have used delerin
"collets" inside the bore for many years. My bore is smooth as the proverbial baby's
bottom. Lucky me.

Support for short pieces:

Similar to the wood ring in your pic of the shaft only anchored to the OD of the spindle
as Joey suggested. Rig a pointed center on a rod long enough to be advanced into the bore
far enough to engage the short workpiece.

Satisfaction guaranteed or double your money back.

Dale
 
Thanks KJ for all the advice.

I had to smile when you mentioned the O-ring. My dad was a very early internet blogger and this came to my sick mind, don't ask me why. He wrote these words of wisdom 20 years ago. Dad was a visionary, he even got Trump in there.

Have a great day!

JC

Damn Dude,

You had to align me with the rubber-band story? No soup for you. Lol

PS - A carefully crafted Delrin sleeve inside the spindle bore can be made to support/center
a forearm that's being prepped for an 'A'-jnt. Think tapered or stepped ID.

KJ
 
Damn Dude,

You had to align me with the rubber-band story? No soup for you. Lol

PS - A carefully crafted Delrin sleeve inside the spindle bore can be made to support/center
a forearm that's being prepped for an 'A'-jnt. Think tapered or stepped ID.

KJ
Assuming this import lathe has a smooth and true spindle bore.
 
These plus a 6 jaw chuck and four jaw rear chuck, and inside tapered collets..takes care of most of it. :)

Mario
 

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Well this is what I came up with. Some thick walled shelby pipe, faced off the ends and threaded it to 45x1.5mm inside. Luckily the id of the pipe was 44mm so didn't even have to bore it. Bored the other end for light interferance and pressed the steady rest shaft into it I got from Chris along with the chuck. Adjusted run out by pressing the chuck in as needed. It actually went in pretty straight from the get go as I had a shoulder inside at the end of the bore. Got it down to about .002 and called it good. 24 inches there about from chuck to chuck. Easy to take on and off.

Total cost about $200 including the tap I bought on E bay to do it with. If anyone needs a 45x1.5 tap used only once let me know.

Thanks for all the ideas, it inspired me to do it myself.

P1090906 [800x600].JPG

P1090905 [800x600].JPG

JC
 
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