need advice, and possibly some quotes

Beware_of_Dawg

Beware_of_Dawg

..................
Silver Member
First post in this forum.

So I bought a pool table, it's in my garage in pieces right now. After reading this forum all day Ive found alot of usefull information and almost became delusional enough to think that I might be able to put this thing together myself to save much needed cash. But, Im thinking better of it.

So I have a couple questions, I know absolutely nothing about rails. While I have the table in pieces I think this is the best time to replace the rails. What kind of rails should I be looking into?

After all Ive read it seems I should be looking into simonis 860 felt. (I primarily play 9-10 ball.) sound about right?

I want the table to play pretty tight, what size pockets should I be looking at?

I live in Tampa, FL. Money is very tight as I just bought a house to go around this table, lol. Do any of you live in Florida or will any of you be coming down to Florida any time soon? If so...

I'd like a quote on what it would cost me to have someone set up & level my table, install new cloth & rails and shim the pockets. The table is a furniture style table with drop pockets. 3 piece slate. 1 inch thick. playing surface rail to rail is 110 x 55 inches. (9 footer).

any advice on how to get the work done right at the best possible price & quotes on what it will or should cost me (PM me please) are appreciated.

Thanks
~D4\/\/G~
 
You can't just shim the pockets, well if your going to do it right where the table plays good anyway. You have to extend the subrails and manufacture wood pieces to fit just right, then extend the new cushions from the original length as well. As far as new cushions, you do have choices and price range but you don't want cheapies. Championship cushions would most likely do you just fine for a home table. Yes simonis 860 is your best bet. To do everything your asking you could easily spend up to $1000 with materials and a good mechanic.
 
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Beware_of_Dawg said:
First post in this forum.

So I bought a pool table, it's in my garage in pieces right now. After reading this forum all day Ive found alot of usefull information and almost became delusional enough to think that I might be able to put this thing together myself to save much needed cash. But, Im thinking better of it.

So I have a couple questions, I know absolutely nothing about rails. While I have the table in pieces I think this is the best time to replace the rails. What kind of rails should I be looking into?

After all Ive read it seems I should be looking into simonis 860 felt. (I primarily play 9-10 ball.) sound about right?

I want the table to play pretty tight, what size pockets should I be looking at?

I live in Tampa, FL. Money is very tight as I just bought a house to go around this table, lol. Do any of you live in Florida or will any of you be coming down to Florida any time soon? If so...

I'd like a quote on what it would cost me to have someone set up & level my table, install new cloth & rails and shim the pockets. The table is a furniture style table with drop pockets. 3 piece slate. 1 inch thick. playing surface rail to rail is 110 x 55 inches. (9 footer).

any advice on how to get the work done right at the best possible price & quotes on what it will or should cost me (PM me please) are appreciated.

Thanks
~D4\/\/G~
Click to expand...


I think your measurement is a bit off.
A 10 table has a playing area between the rails of 56 X 112 - a 9' table is 50 x 100
Measurements are taken cushion nose to cushion nose.

As for replacing the cushions - why - unless they have no action, are hard or you want to tighten the pockets.
Suggest you save this part until the frame and slate are setup then you can dry fit the rails, check ball rebound
and measure the existing pockets. They may already be tight. The rails are last to go on anyway and can be
worked as needed.

860 or 860HR is a good choice for most games.

As for a mechanic you might PM JohnnyT - apparently whoever did his table did a good job and I'm pretty
sure he's in the Tampa area.

On a side note - don't know why you guys post threads like this in the main forum where all you pretty much
get is opinions and guesses.
I read that thread and had to laugh at whoever suggested K66 was a good "choice".
Cushions should be replaced with the profile (K66, K55, etc) meant for that particular table.
If in doubt one of us here will tell you what to measure in order to determine the correct cushion profile.
 
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Dartman said:
I think your measurement is a bit off.
A 10 table has a playing area between the rails of 56 X 112 - a 9' table is 50 x 100
Measurements are taken cushion nose to cushion nose.

As for replacing the cushions - why - unless they have no action, are hard or you want to tighten the pockets.
Click to expand...

re; measurements

I did not personally measure the table before breakdown. The gentlemen I bought the table from was adament the his measurments were exactly that. I pressed him hard about it, I said "inside bumper to inside bumper?" which is what he claimed in his ad. He said, absolutely. In looking at the table even broken down, I have no reason to doubt him. It's a pretty big table. I even said to him, that there was no such table measurement, that a 9 footer was 100 X50. He said his measuring tape didn't lie and even seemed a little lost. But fell back on "I dunno man, I measured the table playing area from inside bumper to inside bumper" "those were the measurements, I wrote them down". He said the sales guy at the place he bought it said it was almost a snooker table. Dunno, I happy with a reg 9 footer. If it's a little bigger, Im cool with that too.

re; rails

They are hard, rubber seems to have dried out perhaps due to limited use. My research indicated the these table (leasure bay OEM: american hertitage) were excellent tables except for the fact that they came from the factory with a sub par accesory package. (ie; lower quality rail rubber & low quality felt.) I plan to address those 2 short comings.

re; could cost me $1000 or more

Yes, Im sure it could. However, I don't have 1000. So I come here to my trusted and very well educated pool contacts and ask where I can cut corners and how I can get the work done for the best possible deal. Times are tough, economy is a train wreck, work is slow. I'm not shy about hard work and would assist if I could be a resource for the person doing it. I would assume that whoever does the work, needs the work too. Can't be a booming business setting up tables in this weak economy. If I can save a few bucks on felt by getting it from someone here... damn straight, Im all over it. If I can save on rails by getting it from someone here, great. I don't really have luxury income to just blindly make a call to a table mecanic and say set it up, money is no object.

Thanks for anymore help you guys can offer.

Dave
 
The reality is that you'll be $300+ in parts (10' 860 cloth, decent cushions) at discount
before factoring in labor charges (figure $400 on the low side).
 
I would suggest that you forget the smaller pockets, if you want them done right that does not appear to be in your budget. Don't do a hack on them just to try it, you will regret it.
 
Set the table up yourself level it RKC has a great post on that. That will save you some labor. You should also have no problem installing the bed cloth yourself. If you are worried about the rubber send the rails to RKC or have them done locally new rubber and felt. Bolt those suckers on and your playing. Or you could have someone just install the rubber and you can install the rail felt. Easier than it looks. There is also a good thread on recovering rails.
 
ruggz said:
Set the table up yourself level it RKC has a great post on that. That will save you some labor. You should also have no problem installing the bed cloth yourself. If you are worried about the rubber send the rails to RKC or have them done locally new rubber and felt. Bolt those suckers on and your playing. Or you could have someone just install the rubber and you can install the rail felt. Easier than it looks. There is also a good thread on recovering rails.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice, Im starting to lean that way. If I screw it up, I guess I could circle back and have a pro re-do it. Im not uncapable... it just looked a little overwhelming because of the great digital levels that RKC and the other accomplished mechanics have. I have levels just not something calibrated so exact.

May have to ditch the smaller pockets too.

figure my budget is roughly 400. May strech to 500, and for what I want done it doesnt look like thats possible.
 
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Beware_of_Dawg said:
Thanks for the advice, Im starting to lean that way. If I screw it up, I guess I could circle back and have a pro re-do it. Im not uncapable... it just looked a little overwhelming because of the great digital levels that RKC and the other accomplished mechanics have. I have levels just not something calibrated so exact.

May have to ditch the smaller pockets too.

figure my budget is roughly 400. May strech to 500, and for what I want done it doesnt look like thats possible.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't get too wrapped up in levels or leveling. If you're somewhat handy and willing to have a go at it there's
no reason you can't get acceptable results doing the work yourself. There's plenty of info on the forum to help.

Post the slate measurements so the actual table size can be nailed down.
 
Don't know how far you are from Atlanta, but Mark Gregory can take care of all your needs.

YOu know, it might be worth it to save up some $ and get the table done up right. Once it is done, it will be good for years.
 
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