Need help improving my cue maintenance / repair skill

nfuids

eh?
Silver Member
Hi everyone,

I bought a lathe (http://www.midamericapool.com/index_files/Page321.htm)like 2 years ago, but only did around 20 tips. I really bought that to clean my shaft and change my tips so I wouldn’t depend on a local shop. I like to experiment with different tips and play with a clean shaft..

Fast forward 2 years, I recently met a guy that was doing shaft maintenance at a tournament and he was kind enough to tell me a lot of new info! And it kinda gave me the energy to try to improve a bit.

I already have a great job, and I do not plan on doing tips/shaft/cue for a living, not even for play money, I simply wanna be good at maintaining my cues and do it for a few friends and teamate, but not much!

Anyways, I’ve got a few questions, information about all this is rare, most cue repair guy don’t share their secrets!

CLEANING SHAFT
- I normally clean with a product I bought at canadian tire in the car section, can’T recall the name. Works great to remove chalk
- Then I sand using 220, 400, 600, 800, 1200, 2000
- Then I use a lether to burnish wood or sort of
- Then I use cue silk, q-wax or similar product to finish off
- Then use sand paper 2000

I’m pretty sure this is too basic. I’d like to know what you guys do, in what order, why so I could improve my self.

This guy I met told me that he sometimes use steam to help clean and help fix dent in the wood.

Also, I don’t « seal ». I once had a product (can’T recall), but wasn’t seeing any improvement when using it before the cue slik or q-wax. What can you guys tell me about it?

Any website with lots of information about cue repair / maintenance? I haven't found a great source of information, ideally with videos.

I’m open to all recommendations, help, tips you can give me to help me improve :)
 

Kim Bye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I would say that you are ruining the shaft by using all that sandpaper, especially those below 800 grit.
 

tsp&b

Well-known member
Silver Member
For shaft cleaning there is seldom if ever any need to touch the shaft with any type of sand paper.

If you ask 10 cue repair people you will likely get 12 different answers. Here is one way to do it.
1. Clean the shaft with the cleaning product of your choice and wipe clean with a damp paper towel to remove any excess cleaner residue.
2. Repeat "1" if necessary.
3. If you wish, apply a light coat of sealer. (optional)
4. Lightly polish the shaft and ferrule with a dry paper towel.
5. If you wish, apply a light coat of cue wax.
6. Repeat "4"...

K.I.S.S.

I hope this helps.
Todd
 
Last edited:

Hits 'em Hard

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
For shaft cleaning there is seldom if ever any need to touch the shaft with any type of sand paper.

If you ask 10 cue repair people you will likely get 12 different answers. Here is one way to do it.
1. Clean the shaft with the cleaning product of your choice and wipe clean with a damp paper towel to remove any excess cleaner residue.
2. Repeat "1" if necessary.
3. If you wish, apply a light coat of sealer. (optional)
4. Lightly polish the shaft and ferrule with a dry paper towel.
5. If you wish, apply a light coat of cue wax.
6. Repeat "4"...

K.I.S.S.

I hope this helps.
Todd

A slight correction. Certain cleaners are quite effective at removing old sealers too. When using those cleaners you must always reseal. And after you put sealer on you must sand then. Once you then re-smooth out the sealer you always apply some sort of top seal coat, wax, cuesilk, shaft freeze. There's numerous final coat products. But don't repeat step 4 unless you've gone back and repeated step 3.

For the OP a wood sealant is going to protect the wood from changes in humidity not its ability to stay clean. Top sealants(wax) are used to prevent the accumulation of dirt(chalk/oils from your skin).
 

nfuids

eh?
Silver Member
A slight correction. Certain cleaners are quite effective at removing old sealers too. When using those cleaners you must always reseal. And after you put sealer on you must sand then. Once you then re-smooth out the sealer you always apply some sort of top seal coat, wax, cuesilk, shaft freeze. There's numerous final coat products. But don't repeat step 4 unless you've gone back and repeated step 3.

For the OP a wood sealant is going to protect the wood from changes in humidity not its ability to stay clean. Top sealants(wax) are used to prevent the accumulation of dirt(chalk/oils from your skin).

Interesting. I'm pretty sure my cleaning product remove everything, sealer included.

What do you use to clean?
And to seal?

Regards,
Mart
 

Kamikazecuetips

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
Mr. Clean Magic eraser and denatured alcohol work great at cleaning your shaft and removing chalk easily. After cleaning, you will need to lightly sand shaft to smooth out open wood. You can then seal wood and lightly sand again to smooth out wood sealer residue. (I like to seal & lightly sand wood at least 3 times). You can do a final finish with a 2000 grit and polish with wax if desired. (Some people don't like wax on their cues). This works for me...
 

Llewellyn Cues

Registered
well all that i can say is welcome to the club , i would say that most got their start the very same way tips for self and friends, then from here it is practice, practice, practice, yes it is much like playing pool ,
 

cuejo

Cue Repair tech
Silver Member
I have a few videos on you tube showing how I do things
Most of my process hasn't changed much 😬
 

greyghost

Coast to Coast
Silver Member
locktite 454 for the glue......

learn to use rpm to turn tips and not havve to sand

always make ferrule even with shaft, and tip with ferrule.....why you turn it not sand

even if a shafts crooked you can use multiple steady rests to get it straight to do the work right without crazy end wobble caused by wobble in th middle

and tat cleaner is probably like dab a doo or fast orange....if it is use something without the pumice....its just petroleum distillate and same as using say lighter fluid....

dont scuff tips so they look like buckwheats head, its not helping anything....and also one never sees pros screwing with tip picks and scuffing constantly like lesser mortals.

for youru own cues....clean hands, dry with paper towlel, buff shaft with that damp pt you just dried hands with....then use a fresh dry one and buff till "hot" 8 years shaft still perfecct after the seal, never a nothingbut that and my hands touches it.

was out of town and had to repiar ferrule, had trusted cuemaker do it for me....told him you touch the shaft you die.....and did PERFECT WORK.....reasons why i trusted him to do it anyways.....95% of guys i wouldn't if my life depended on it....not with my dam cues work to hard to build them....straight up.
 
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