Looking for ideas for alternante flooring. With two rottwiellers carpet gets dirty too quick. Wood & tile ive gotta assume are hard on the back after long sessions. So what else is there?
Need ideas for flooring under the table table. Other than carpet/wood/tile
- Thread starter TXsouthpaw
- Start date
We used a rubber floor for my wifes workout room. Its great for walking on. I believe it was 1/2-3/4" thick and came in different colors. I could hardly cut it. You can't rip it. Its almost indestructable. I have seen the same material on some shipping palets.
I second the comment...
Rubber flooring is definitely a viable option. They make some nice ones now and have various color options.
http://www.rubberflooringinc.com/interlocking-tile/1-monster-rubber-tile.html
http://www.rubbercal.com/Eco_Sport_1_Inch.html
I do not know about cork...not sure it would wear well for your application.
Rubber flooring is definitely a viable option. They make some nice ones now and have various color options.
http://www.rubberflooringinc.com/interlocking-tile/1-monster-rubber-tile.html
http://www.rubbercal.com/Eco_Sport_1_Inch.html
I do not know about cork...not sure it would wear well for your application.
The best thing would be an LVT product. I run a Carpet One Store and there are several products that I would recommend such as Konecto,Montego. The new line of products run around $2.99 sq.ft and the installation process is lock and fold so they are easy to install yourself and not have to pay anyone. If you have any questions give me a shout and I will point you in the right direction.
Hope This Helps!
Shane Wade
706-499-0112
Hope This Helps!
Shane Wade
706-499-0112
I have ECO 3/4 inch rubber flooring over concrete. It is great. I had the installers cut around the table legs and then had Diamond come out and raise my table 3/4 inches so that the table would still be the right height. However, it is, I think, expensive. I paid $5,000 for a 16' by 20' room. For me it was worth it. Good luck.
Yep, that is pretty steep. $15.62 per square foot. Sounds like a great idea/product though.
I have my table on top of a floating bamboo floor as I'm a big fan of wood floors. The floating floor has a springiness to it that is very comfortable for playing; I've played 8 hours straight with no issues.
Brian in VA
Brian in VA
Thanks for the ideas guys. Ive thought of rubber before but cork and bamboo are new too me. Id like rubber as long as it looks good and doesnt end up looking like a gym. Definetly gonna look into all 3 though. Thanks.
Jack and Jills
Title;
I think was the name of Weenie Beenies room with Devalle, but what caught my eye was his flooring, he had a fibrous, fiberglass, tile flooring blue/white mix, almost looked like carpet, would keep the balls from rolling all over. Was indestructible and being fiberglass would clean up nicely with a steam cleaner. Very creative flooring, now to find something like this, would not have a clue, but it was very unique and quieted the room like carpet, and did Not wear out.
Title;
I think was the name of Weenie Beenies room with Devalle, but what caught my eye was his flooring, he had a fibrous, fiberglass, tile flooring blue/white mix, almost looked like carpet, would keep the balls from rolling all over. Was indestructible and being fiberglass would clean up nicely with a steam cleaner. Very creative flooring, now to find something like this, would not have a clue, but it was very unique and quieted the room like carpet, and did Not wear out.
Hey I've got a flooring related problem also:
I put carpet and padding in my basement, and now I cannot get my basement bar box to roll right. I get it levelled and the next day it has 'sunk' or something into the carpet and the roll is off again. It isn't particularly deep carpet or padding, but the table is relatively light so I'm not sure of the best way to fix this.
Is there something I can put under the feet besides a sheet of plywood (which looks ghetto as hell) or bricks? Any ideas? It's driving me nuts.
I put carpet and padding in my basement, and now I cannot get my basement bar box to roll right. I get it levelled and the next day it has 'sunk' or something into the carpet and the roll is off again. It isn't particularly deep carpet or padding, but the table is relatively light so I'm not sure of the best way to fix this.
Is there something I can put under the feet besides a sheet of plywood (which looks ghetto as hell) or bricks? Any ideas? It's driving me nuts.
Hey I've got a flooring related problem also:
I put carpet and padding in my basement, and now I cannot get my basement bar box to roll right. I get it levelled and the next day it has 'sunk' or something into the carpet and the roll is off again. It isn't particularly deep carpet or padding, but the table is relatively light so I'm not sure of the best way to fix this.
Is there something I can put under the feet besides a sheet of plywood (which looks ghetto as hell) or bricks? Any ideas? It's driving me nuts.
Brunswick made pads for the feet of the Goldcrowns, chrome with a surface to not allow slippage between the metal feet and the pads, they were obviously round, but underneath these metal pads were metal dowel shaped feet welded to the bottom of this plate, that would push thru the carpet/padding to the floor below, I think there were four dowels, the snake will be here soon to confirm.
I put a very thin carpet that comes in 18" x 18" squares and is barely adhered to the floor with a light double stick tape. The table (GC5) settled some the first six months but since then it has been solid as a rock. I bought about 30% more squares than I needed because each square can be individually replaced. Spills, wear patterns, table marks can easily be repaired by replacing the individual and independent squares. Just pull it up and put a fresh one down. Someone may have already referred to this product but it has worked good for me and helps to quiet the room as well. Enjoy the space. Play great!
Pergo?
Laminate flooring seems to meet the originally set criteria of easy to clean and easy on the back. I don't image it is not going to make for a quieter room though.
It wears well and is usually a DIY install with a pad under it that provides some cushion. With either this or carpet, I would put the table frame & slate in place and let it set for a week or so before leveling.
Laminate flooring seems to meet the originally set criteria of easy to clean and easy on the back. I don't image it is not going to make for a quieter room though.
It wears well and is usually a DIY install with a pad under it that provides some cushion. With either this or carpet, I would put the table frame & slate in place and let it set for a week or so before leveling.
I'm researching this now myself.
For an indoor space (like a concrete basement floor) use dri-lok boards (2 foot square tongue in groove random orientation chip board with a rubber backer with little nubs on it) with 3/4 red oak over it. Wood floors are great to walk on, far less fatiguing than concrete and look a whole lot better and add value to the property. Tile is nearly as hard as the concrete so you are only changing the look. The thin laminate floors are great for photographs, but they squeak and look cheap pretty quickly. I equate them to decal cues- looks great but has no substance. I do realize these products (vinyl backed are decent) have gotten better recently, but I won't use them. Many people are fine with them
The dri-lok keeps moisture out of the room, but still breathes. Raises the floor temperature a few degrees (tile face vs. concrete surface) but with the air space, actually provides a bit of insulation for the room too.
Was considering the dri-lok with paint on it as a shop floor, but I may go with PVC roll instead. You may want to look at that as well. (PVC tiles have been covered above already and a nice option as well)
Remember: the more resilient (comfortable) the flooring, the more likely the table will settle on it. Best advice no matter what is to set up the frame and slate, but don't wax the seams and cover it right away. Place the rails on and other weight items if you like and finish it a few weeks later. That should give the material time to compress under the weight of the table, but you could also plane a 2X2 piece of oak to replace the dri-lok tiles where the table will sit, so the flooring is 'solid' where the weight is being carried. Then there is no waiting for the table to settle.:thumbup:
All-out (if you have the ceiling height) is to go with PT 2X4 sleepers laying flat 16 on center with rigid foam insulation and vapor barrier with 3/4 tongue-in-groove ply sub floor and then the 3/4 red oak. That's pretty much the ultimate in comfort and solidity in all regards, but you need a high ceiling to use that. You loose about three inches all together with this solution.
You can use other hardwood for flooring; however red oak is cheap and holds up to dropped pool balls well. Pine, Maple and cherry will dent more easily. South American Cherry is also a good choice but much more expensive than red oak. White oak is, well, whiter but also a bit more expensive. I prefer it actually but most older New England homes are red oak, not white.
A few runners make the room less reverberant and can be removed for cleaning easily.
For an indoor space (like a concrete basement floor) use dri-lok boards (2 foot square tongue in groove random orientation chip board with a rubber backer with little nubs on it) with 3/4 red oak over it. Wood floors are great to walk on, far less fatiguing than concrete and look a whole lot better and add value to the property. Tile is nearly as hard as the concrete so you are only changing the look. The thin laminate floors are great for photographs, but they squeak and look cheap pretty quickly. I equate them to decal cues- looks great but has no substance. I do realize these products (vinyl backed are decent) have gotten better recently, but I won't use them. Many people are fine with them
The dri-lok keeps moisture out of the room, but still breathes. Raises the floor temperature a few degrees (tile face vs. concrete surface) but with the air space, actually provides a bit of insulation for the room too.
Was considering the dri-lok with paint on it as a shop floor, but I may go with PVC roll instead. You may want to look at that as well. (PVC tiles have been covered above already and a nice option as well)
Remember: the more resilient (comfortable) the flooring, the more likely the table will settle on it. Best advice no matter what is to set up the frame and slate, but don't wax the seams and cover it right away. Place the rails on and other weight items if you like and finish it a few weeks later. That should give the material time to compress under the weight of the table, but you could also plane a 2X2 piece of oak to replace the dri-lok tiles where the table will sit, so the flooring is 'solid' where the weight is being carried. Then there is no waiting for the table to settle.:thumbup:
All-out (if you have the ceiling height) is to go with PT 2X4 sleepers laying flat 16 on center with rigid foam insulation and vapor barrier with 3/4 tongue-in-groove ply sub floor and then the 3/4 red oak. That's pretty much the ultimate in comfort and solidity in all regards, but you need a high ceiling to use that. You loose about three inches all together with this solution.
You can use other hardwood for flooring; however red oak is cheap and holds up to dropped pool balls well. Pine, Maple and cherry will dent more easily. South American Cherry is also a good choice but much more expensive than red oak. White oak is, well, whiter but also a bit more expensive. I prefer it actually but most older New England homes are red oak, not white.
A few runners make the room less reverberant and can be removed for cleaning easily.