Needed or not?

If you have a Uniloc quick release, you'd damn sure better use joint protectors. Other "normal" pins, I don't think they're that important.
the specs for the cue say 5/16 x 18 quick release. Mentions nothing about unilock. To me the joint looks no different than the joint on my circa 2000 model huebler. Don’t even know why Viking calls it quick release? You simply screw or unscrew the butt and shaft to assemble or disassemble. The model is viking B2001 natural stain with standard v-pro shaft and Lepro medium tip. Thank you
 
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For 12 - 30 bucks they protect against dirt and grit getting in the shaft collar and protect against something like dropping the butt and bending the pin.

If the shaft is woode threads that dirt can wear them down making it lose. I have an OB with loose threads because the guy i got it off of didnt take care of it.

I have seen pins bent by dropping and it means a new cue. Usually on a entry level cue. To me, 12$-30 is worth the protection.

I have cues that I bought almost 50 years ago and they are still in perfect condition without ever having them.
 
I have cues that I bought almost 50 years ago and they are still in perfect condition without ever having them.
And I have never been in a really bad car accident. I still wear my seatbelt.

For as cheap as a set are, why risk it ? I am not advocating expensive sets. I bought one of those once and won't do it again. Those are not really for protection because you would be pissed if you ding them. I prefer function or looks. But the cheap sets are worth it in my opinion for that extra security.
 
does my cue(2022 Viking B2001 with standard v-pro shaft )use a Unilock quick release pin? The specifications for the cue say it has a 5/16 x 18 quick release joint but mentions nothing about uniloc. I’m a bit confused as I’m trying to clear this up. Thank you for sharing your expertise
 
does my cue(2022 Viking B2001 with standard v-pro shaft )use a Unilock quick release pin? The specifications for the cue say it has a 5/16 x 18 quick release joint but mentions nothing about uniloc. I’m a bit confused as I’m trying to clear this up. Thank you for sharing your expertise
Viking's is a proprietary pin. I wasn't aware of any special concerns regarding any kind of pin UniLoc or otherwise. Caps are just another layer of security.
 
Not saying the Viking QR pin is not solid. I heard the uniloc pins were trash though. Just glad my cue doesn’t have one. Thanks
 
Not saying the Viking QR pin is not solid. I heard the uniloc pins were trash though. Just glad my cue doesn’t have one. Thanks
I have a uniloc insert that's come loose and inspection shows there is simply no "grabbage" machined in. Production error probably and too expensive to redo. Ahmma just epoxy it back in. Actually it's on the middle segment of a break/jump so I might use it without the insert for just jumping.
 
I have JP’s for cues just to look good.


As for actual use I’ll break down the cost of my cue, case and JP use.

My cue is a 8pt Black Boar pretty fancy, idk current value. But it’s well over $10,000. My case is a $50 scorpion case that was a gift to me. And the JP’s come with the cue.

Sometimes I’ll put a JP on a shaft to mark that shaft as the one with the tip I like or am using. The other JP is in the pouch. On the butt that JP is a 50/50 chance it’s on the cue or somewhere else.

I’ve never used a JP for it’s intended purpose.

That’s my JP story

Fatboy

I only carry a tip-tapper and some 2000 sand paper that never gets used more than once every few months. And J&J powder. I travel light
 
I know my cue is el cheapo to you guys at 220. It came with a nice Viking 1x2 hard case which works perfectly. I was wondering if any of you guys use joint protectors because videos pop up on my YouTube algorithm one in a while. I didn’t even have a case for my old huebler. Just hauled it in the back seat of my car and never had any joint issues. Anyways, I’ve already purchased the cue, Kamui
glove and the last4ever nickel tool so I’m around 265 into this so far. I really like cue and would like it to perform its best for a long time. Opinions on joint protectors please?
don't need them if you have a good case. if using a soft case then maybe iguess.
 
Not saying the Viking QR pin is not solid. I heard the uniloc pins were trash though. Just glad my cue doesn’t have one. Thanks
No sir. Uniloc's are first class pins. Don't believe anything you read or HEAR (and half of what you see). Seriously Uniloc's are an upgrade on some cues. Also $220 is not el cheapo ......less expensive but not cheap. Viking has it's own quick release type pin. Take of the cue and it’ll last a long time.
 
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Viking's is a proprietary pin. I wasn't aware of any special concerns regarding any kind of pin UniLoc or otherwise. Caps are just another layer of security.
I just had to return a Revo uniloc after two months of use because it locked up on me. Two oxen couldn't have pulled that sumbitch apart. Thank the lord I bought it from Ozone Billiards, and they immediately shipped me out a new cue.

I've been told multiple times that the UniLoc QR's are notorious for this even if you get just a tiny amount of dust in the joint.

This was my first UniLoc purchase...and it'll be my last. My Cuetec Cynergy takes me like a whole 5 seconds more to assemble :)
 
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No sir. Uniloc's are first class pins. Don't believe anything you read or HEAR (and half of what you see). Seriously Uniloc's are an upgrade on some cues. Also $220 is not el cheapo ......less expensive but not cheap. Viking has it's own quick release type pin. Take of the cue and it’ll last a long time.

Tell that to my (super babied) 2-month old Revo that locked up so tight there was no way in hell to get it apart,. Had to send it back. It evidently happens so much that Predator has a "canned reply" document to tell you how to try to get it apart. I couldn't.
 
I don’t use JPs, and frankly don’t see a need for them. The process of prepping and maintaining is already long enough, why add extra time without any return on the investment?


I use em because they offer protection.

Cheaper then repair.
 
I like em and usually wiil use them when I leave the house, but I prefer to use a soft case and my pins are glass.
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Tell that to my (super babied) 2-month old Revo that locked up so tight there was no way in hell to get it apart,. Had to send it back. It evidently happens so much that Predator has a "canned reply" document to tell you how to try to get it apart. I couldn't.
Sorry to hear this.
 
I just had to return a Revo uniloc after two months of use because it locked up on me. Two oxen couldn't have pulled that sumbitch apart. Thank the lord I bought it from Ozone Billiards, and they immediately shipped me out a new cue.

I've been told multiple times that the UniLoc QR's are notorious for this even if you get just a tiny amount of dust in the joint.

This was my first UniLoc purchase...and it'll be my last. My Cuetec Cynergy takes me like a whole 5 seconds more to assemble :)
I can see maybe the radial pin but the qr barely has enough thread to get stuck. Weird. Regardless, it's only collarless joints like on sneakies that you need to torque the shaft in. With steel and implex, I turn until it stops - finger tight plus insurance, and don't bother with further tightening.
 
There used to be many threads about the unlock pin seizing.

I wondered if that issue was no longer and if so, was it resolved due to makers acts?

I'd need to consult with Mr. Webb but believe popular thought was dirty unlock pins caused them to seize...a consequence of use that is out of makers' control.

That's why I was wondering why we never heard of the q/r pin seizing anynore.
 
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