New shaft... Defective? Threads stripped out

This ring? I'm guessing it is colored epoxy?

Good catch Randy!
I had forgot about that. If I remember from when I had the cue built initially, I am fairly certain that I wanted the hit of phenlic collars, but they said the black phenolic they had on hand was "ugly" and they didnt want to make joint collars out of them. So they sleeved implex over the phenolic... or I could be completely off my rocker, and they are just implex because they didnt want to use phenolic at all.

This is a new shaft that did not go with the initial build, so even if it was sleeved implex over phenolic, I don't know that the new shaft would have been done the same way...

It may just be a difference in finish from a facing cut when matching new shaft to old butt (that falls into the realm of way over me knowledge base)
 
With any shaft, but especially with G10, spin the shaft on the pin counter clockwise until it clicks, then screw it together. G10 grabs more, so it is pretty easy to crossthread. I'm not saying that is what happened but it is a possiblity.
 
Looking at Randy's blown up pic, it looks like it's been re-plugged already.
Maple has a glue ring inside of the maple's border with the phenolic .
 
Looking at Randy's blown up pic, it looks like it's been re-plugged already.
Maple has a glue ring inside of the maple's border with the phenolic .

hmmmm... interesting. Maybe the had a tap tear up the threads on initial trial, and gave it a go again. Even if this was the case, I don't see why that would have made the likihood of a thread strip any more likely, as if they do the repair now, it should be as good as new...
at least thats what I thought
 
My guess is a perfect storm. It's a 3/8 g10, which is too thin for g10 and also abrasive, as already said. Next is something I have seen a lot of, which is a shaft cut from a board that was cut from the end of the log. The logs gets a liquid wax coating on the cut face to seal up the grain, and that wax permeates into the wood a bit, softening it considerably. It literally deteriorates the wood. I have inadvertently included these ends in shaft blanks before, where I normally cut them off, and only found them when I began turning. It's not a stretch to believe shafts like this make it out through suppliers and into the hands of cue makers. And to be fair, unless you are a logger/miller that knows what it is, you may never even notice it. The supplier nor the builder would likely recognize or acknowledge it.

Anyway, if that shaft was one of the wax shafts AND fitted to a g10 pin, it would deteriorate in a hurry. The g10 would eat it up pronto, and leave it hollowed out just like that. I'm not saying that's what happened because I wouldn't know without being able to touch the wood, but from your description of how it happened, it's a pretty fair bet. You also must consider the broad range of hardness from one shaft to another. If your shaft is on the softer side, has a wax end, and threaded onto g10, then it's almost certainly going to strip. The pin would rip & pull the threads out with very little effort, leaving you perplexed as to wtf just happened.
 
All better :D
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My guess is a perfect storm. It's a 3/8 g10, which is too thin for g10 and also abrasive, as already said. Next is something I have seen a lot of, which is a shaft cut from a board that was cut from the end of the log. The logs gets a liquid wax coating on the cut face to seal up the grain, and that wax permeates into the wood a bit, softening it considerably. It literally deteriorates the wood. I have inadvertently included these ends in shaft blanks before, where I normally cut them off, and only found them when I began turning. It's not a stretch to believe shafts like this make it out through suppliers and into the hands of cue makers. And to be fair, unless you are a logger/miller that knows what it is, you may never even notice it. The supplier nor the builder would likely recognize or acknowledge it.

Anyway, if that shaft was one of the wax shafts AND fitted to a g10 pin, it would deteriorate in a hurry. The g10 would eat it up pronto, and leave it hollowed out just like that. I'm not saying that's what happened because I wouldn't know without being able to touch the wood, but from your description of how it happened, it's a pretty fair bet. You also must consider the broad range of hardness from one shaft to another. If your shaft is on the softer side, has a wax end, and threaded onto g10, then it's almost certainly going to strip. The pin would rip & pull the threads out with very little effort, leaving you perplexed as to wtf just happened.

To add to the perfect storm and support of JoeyInCali first post, the initial hole could have been oversize. They probably had the right drill but if it wasn't chucked up correctly, lots of runout, or they re-sharpen their own tools and the point angle wasn't accurate you can get an oversize hole = reduced % of thread engagement.

That being said, its a pretty clean strip out. Nearly 100% gone.
 
First-off, those threads look like they were cut with a butter knife.
Secondly, someone could use a manicure.

KJ
 
If the original threads were done the same as these, that's why they stripped out the first time. I would recommend the cuemaker to replace their tap with a new one, as this looks like their current one is very dull. As Joey stated above, your going down the same road soon with those threads.
Dave
 
I just received my cue back from the maker after a refinish and had a new shaft made. I have had the cue back in my hands for literally 9 days.

Well went to play tonight and when I went to snug the shaft up... It went past snug... Not like i was cranking the crap out of it, just snugging it up.

Cue has g10 3/8 10 in it, and the threads just disintrigrated... What the hell happened?

Never had a shaft do this or even seen one do this. Been playing with 3/8 10 pins for over a decade!!!

Tried to call maker, but they are closed til tomorrow. My assumption is they will fix it, but I would like to know the possible causes
Just a bad shaft? Improper machining? I dont get it!!!

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I hear that's with those G 10 and still. And the flatbottom 3/8-10 don't leave a lot of threads to begin with. Looks like you have to have it drilled out and have a dowel put in then re tap and thread it
 
First-off, those threads look like they were cut with a butter knife.
Secondly, someone could use a manicure.

KJ

that is my man hand, I keep a glove on the other one to keep it softer for the ladies ;)

+1 rep for the first person to get the reference
 
Is the top thread of the G-10 pin chipped? It looks like it is chipped or missing a small piece.

Nope, I think it is just the picture, other than having some crud on it (which is now cleaned up and looking pretty) the pin is tip top shape.
 
Those threads on the plugged and fixed shaft already look a bit rough to me. Like someone already said, I think his tap is very dull and doing more tearing than cutting. I'd keep a close eye on it and maybe give the cuemaker a heads up to be on the safe side.
 
Those threads on the plugged and fixed shaft already look a bit rough to me. Like someone already said, I think his tap is very dull and doing more tearing than cutting. I'd keep a close eye on it and maybe give the cuemaker a heads up to be on the safe side.

thanks, I will give them the heads up
 
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