new shafts

marek

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hi there!
As some of you may know I have been always a fan of LD shafts and for last 12 years or so I played with them (314-1, 314-2, WX900). Well the life is a change, 10 days ago I received my new custom made shafts - one for pool, one for snooker. Specs are these:
1) pool shaft - 10.8mm, solid ash wood, very long taper, LePro tip (hard)
2) snooker shaft - 8.8mm, solid ash wood, conical taper, Talisman Hard Tip

After playing with both of the shafts for a week I can say that I am extremely happy with both shafts, the hit is very stiff and the transfer of energy to the cueball is off the chart as compared to LD shafts. Also because those shafts are so thin (lower end-mass) they are virtually LD without being bored so I dont have to adjust much, only draw shots are so much easier now that I overrun them quite often :D As for adjusting to thinner shaft regarding my aim I knew it wouldnt be a problem, I always loved aiming down the thinner shafts as I can see cueball better, I even tried to play pool with my snooker cue for a week as a test with great results before ordering those shafts. Also playing cueball off the rail is so much easier :) And the wood is just beautiful ;)
So overall I am one happy camper now :thumbup:
 

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Nice looking shafts :smile:

I would love to try an ash shaft some day on a pool cue :rolleyes:
 
Nice looking shafts :smile:

I would love to try an ash shaft some day on a pool cue :rolleyes:

Thx! :) And what is holding you back? Such shaft is not expensive at all. To be honest I ordered the shaft as an experiment, I just wanted to try these specs and if it didnt fit my needs well I would put it as my backup shaft. But my logic told me that I may get LD and great feedback in one package and I was right :grin:
 
I tried a Snooker shaft someone had just 2 days ago. WOW.. 8.8 there abouts. Very pin point and the little time I used it I was impressed.

8.8 was a bit to small but would certainly pick one up as they appear not to costly to throw in the rack.
 
Congrats!

The pictures look like the shafts are not sealed or burnished (smoothed for lack of a better description). I would like to see the ferrule end and the joint if you can share the picture. How do you find the ash compared to the Rock hard maple that most shafts are made of? Did you go with Ash because of the snooker play?
 
Congrats!

The pictures look like the shafts are not sealed or burnished (smoothed for lack of a better description). I would like to see the ferrule end and the joint if you can share the picture. How do you find the ash compared to the Rock hard maple that most shafts are made of? Did you go with Ash because of the snooker play?

Its just the picture is not sharp enough, shafts has been sealed by the cuemaker. I am posting the pics of ferrule (before retipping) and joint (both shafts have the same ferrule), I will post unscrewed shaft when I get home. As far as wood comparison goes - ash wood is much stiffer than maple wood so I guess maple is probably more suitable wood for LD shafts, on the other hand transfer of energy is phenomenal with ash wood, thats probably why snooker players prefer it. My choice of ash wood was based on couple of factors - I had a long discussion with the cuemaker about my needs as a player and he suggested that with such thin shafts ash wood would be more suitable for proper energy transfer, also he had some premade ash shafts ready so it took him only 10 days to finish them to my specs :smile: And I am mainly pool player, as far as snooker goes I am just "hobby player" being able to run 50+ run once in a while (142 being my high run from the line-up drill) ;)
 

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Can you explain what you mean by "the transfer of energy to the cueball is off the chart as compared to LD shafts"?
 
Can you explain what you mean by "the transfer of energy to the cueball is off the chart as compared to LD shafts"?

Sure. Simply put I am able to draw cueball the same distance as with LD shaft with so less effort or in other words I can put way more spin on cueball with my new shaft than with maple LD shaft with the same effort. Also power stun shots are WAY more easier with now. I am no expert on physics but i guess it is due to ash wood being way less flexible than maple wood AND the shaft not being bored so it doesnt lose the energy by flexing much during the contact with cueball. I can be wrong science-wise on this, there are surely guys here who could explain this much better, I just know that my new toy gives me possibilities to play shots I couldnt pull off with bored maple shaft :thumbup:
 
Who made them? That photo with your hand makes the shaft look soooo thin, looks like it'd be fun to shoot with!

Look at post #5,there is a link to the cuemakers website,he is from Czech Republic. And yes,the snooker shaft is really thin and i just love it!:thumbup:
 
Here is picture of the joint:
 

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Collar-less ?

IMO I feel all collarless shafts are fragile or a inherent weak spot and are known to crack.
You might be surprised the amount of cue makers and laminated LD shaft makers who don't warranty collarless shafts, least I was ...:(

The reason solid shafts get mot spin is because they have less deflection then a LD shaft.

I am glade you like your new shafts, but personally I would of put a collar on both of them.....
It still can be done........... don't put side ward pressure on the joint.........................

Not all collarless joints crack, but it is some what common IMO..
 
Congratulations, enjoy your new LD shafts, even if they do not have a hole drilled down the shaft from the tip-end.

Most of the players I know (league and bangers) would take a long time to adjust to the small tip sizes. The smaller the tip, the more deliberate the stroke needs to be. Most league players don't have the stroke for these.
 
Sure. Simply put I am able to draw cueball the same distance as with LD shaft with so less effort or in other words I can put way more spin on cueball with my new shaft than with maple LD shaft with the same effort. Also power stun shots are WAY more easier with now. I am no expert on physics but i guess it is due to ash wood being way less flexible than maple wood AND the shaft not being bored so it doesnt lose the energy by flexing much during the contact with cueball. I can be wrong science-wise on this, there are surely guys here who could explain this much better, I just know that my new toy gives me possibilities to play shots I couldnt pull off with bored maple shaft :thumbup:



At least the first two things you mention (more draw and more spin) could be explained by the smaller diameter -- you may be hitting lower or further off-centre than you expect. Did you ever try something like a Predator Z shaft? If so, were the results different?
 
IMO I feel all collarless shafts are fragile or a inherent weak spot and are known to crack.
You might be surprised the amount of cue makers and laminated LD shaft makers who don't warranty collarless shafts, least I was ...:(

The reason solid shafts get mot spin is because they have less deflection then a LD shaft.

I am glade you like your new shafts, but personally I would of put a collar on both of them.....
It still can be done........... don't put side ward pressure on the joint.........................

Not all collarless joints crack, but it is some what common IMO..

Well while I see the reason why the collar would protect the joint better I am not a player who abuses his equipment. Anyway just to be sure I will have a talk with the cuemaker if he thinks putting a collar on my shafts is or is not recommended. Thx for your input :wink:
 
Congratulations, enjoy your new LD shafts, even if they do not have a hole drilled down the shaft from the tip-end.

Most of the players I know (league and bangers) would take a long time to adjust to the small tip sizes. The smaller the tip, the more deliberate the stroke needs to be. Most league players don't have the stroke for these.

Like I said already I have no problem shooting pool with my snooker cue, I guess my stroke is good enough. :p
 
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