New tip

JoeyA

Efren's Mini-Tourn BACKER
Silver Member
Since this is a "new" tip I thought the most people should profit from knowing about it.

I've been using the new "CLEAR" Kamui tip for quite a few months now. It has been in the beta stage for quite some time.

For those of you who have practiced or competed against me, you've seen the tip.

It has a small clear bonded laminate already attached to the tip to prevent the glue from seeping into the leather and accidentally causing "hard spots".

It will catch your opponent's eyes right away. It never fails that when I am playing someone who doesn't know about the CLEAR Kamui tip, they exclaim that my tip is getting ready to fall off or some other thing like, "HEY, let me see your tip!" It's always kind of funny as I pretend to not want them to look at my tip.

Anyway, I have just about worn completely through this tip. It has performed exceptionally well. I have NO complaints about performance. For what it's worth it is a "Kamui Black Soft CLEAR".

That should be the official name. I don't think there are any other idiosyncracies that I know of between the CLEAR and the regular tips without the bonded CLEAR on it.

You should be hearing more about it and they should be available at the SBE.

I have to think that these tips will be great for any shafts but especially OB Cues, Ivory ferrules and any other "specialty" ferrules, where you need a little protection.

Trust me, you'll like them.

JoeyA
 
Joey, I play with the Kamui black soft tips and really like them. I've got some wear left in mine but started a thread today in preparation for the time soon when I'll need new ones. Thanks for the update. SteveD in Ohio
 
Joey. My friend has the clear 1 about a year now. I played with it and I do like it a lot. Can't wait to get 1:D
 
So this is like a tip pad but attached to the tip itself? Or something else?

A layer of plastic where the tip gets glued?

Aside from that, it's all the same tip? I love my Kamui Soft, although after a few months of use it feels pretty hard, may need to try a Super Soft next.
 
Me too, my local pool hall put on a Kaumi black soft and it is very nice.

Im happy so tough for me to change.

Ken
 
Joey, can you please post a picture of this clear tip?

I couldn't take a better picture, sorry.

picture.php
 
Looks like an acrylic tip pad .
But is actually polycarbonate as far as I can tell.
 
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Here's another picture of the new CLEAR Kamui tip. You can't see the clear area very well as it is kind of hard to capture that on camera but you sure can see it with the eyes. On a blue felt table cloth you can see the blue shining right through the tip. Lol

NO, JoeyA is not sponsored by Kamui. :D

picture.php


If you want one, go to SBE. They will have them there.
 
Probably a good idea. I won't attempt to Rank Kamui's efforts just for something to do. Most repair men will prep any tip with Thin Cyno before install. Most soft or pig skin leather will wick up at least one layer on the bottom of the tip. So it does look like a little dark tip pad anyway.

I can see the point of not creating hard spots on the tip but like I mentioned, the tips will usually wick up the thickness of one layer so I don't really know if the tip will wick up glue any further upward than that. But honestly, I have had 2 tips wick up Loc Tite Gel even after 2 applications of thin Cyno. I guess anything can happen.

Have to remember that the tip pad is probably attached with glue anyway
and that the bottom of the tip will absorb a certain amount of glue.

So, is it really taking away the possibility of a hard spot or just another gimmick. More smoke and mirrors?

I can put a tip pad on any tip. I generally use OBs carbon fiber or fiber pads from Atlas if necessary on a break shaft or asked by the owner to do so.

If I do use one, I will prep the tip as I normally do, glue the pad to the ferrule, cut the pad even with the ferrule and glue the tip to the pad.

I don't see where it would be making any ground breaking advancements that are not accomplished by using a pad.
Kamui wouldn't be the first to do this anyway. The old French Tip company, can't remember the name just becauce I want to now, and Black King Tips, which are relatively new to the market place are doing this now. Black kings pads are leather.

I think maybe King stopped doing this with the cheaper tips and think its available on the more expensive line.
If a person wanted a leather tip pad, I would first install a cheaper California 5 layer tip (one dollar a piece), cut 4 layers off the tip and install the tip of choice onto the leather pad. Same difference.
 
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Since this is a "new" tip I thought the most people should profit from knowing about it.

I've been using the new "CLEAR" Kamui tip for quite a few months now. It has been in the beta stage for quite some time.

For those of you who have practiced or competed against me, you've seen the tip.

It has a small clear bonded laminate already attached to the tip to prevent the glue from seeping into the leather and accidentally causing "hard spots".

It will catch your opponent's eyes right away. It never fails that when I am playing someone who doesn't know about the CLEAR Kamui tip, they exclaim that my tip is getting ready to fall off or some other thing like, "HEY, let me see your tip!" It's always kind of funny as I pretend to not want them to look at my tip.

Anyway, I have just about worn completely through this tip. It has performed exceptionally well. I have NO complaints about performance. For what it's worth it is a "Kamui Black Soft CLEAR".

That should be the official name. I don't think there are any other idiosyncracies that I know of between the CLEAR and the regular tips without the bonded CLEAR on it.

You should be hearing more about it and they should be available at the SBE.

I have to think that these tips will be great for any shafts but especially OB Cues, Ivory ferrules and any other "specialty" ferrules, where you need a little protection.

Trust me, you'll like them.

JoeyA

Hey JoeyA,
Thanks for the Tip! About the tip.......
Many Regards,
Lock N Load.
 
So what is the point with the tip?
Besides it being clear and some new sparkle... What ever.
Does it perform like the black tips to the tans?
Is the new tip made to eliminate all the glazing issues with the black tips?
If not then why?
 
So what is the point with the tip?
Besides it being clear and some new sparkle... What ever.
Does it perform like the black tips to the tans?
Is the new tip made to eliminate all the glazing issues with the black tips?
If not then why?

Cue repair people OFTEN, unbeknownst to the players, accidentally get a spot of glue on the side of the tip and this creates a hard spot on a particular area of the tip giving a different hit on that spot than the rest of the area of the tip. This clear area allows the repair guy a little "grace" to avoid this problem.

There may be other benefits, like protecting the ferrule a bit more but I don't know of any others.

It certainly catches the eyes of your opponent, although when shooting I have never seen the clear area. Maybe I am just used to it or the angle at which I am shooting I just never see the clear area. It gives your opponent something to think about other than running out the set when he comes to the table. Lol
 
Cue repair people OFTEN, unbeknownst to the players, accidentally get a spot of glue on the side of the tip and this creates a hard spot on a particular area

Very seldom will happen and if it does, it wouldn't be enuff to soak in that far and would get wiped quickly before it does anyway.
Any glue on the side of a tip will get cut out as the tip is trimmed.
One uses 14 mm tip for a 13mm shaft and down ward so you are cutting at least 1 mm from the side of a tip at the very least and more for a smaller diameter shaft.

Anyone that can feel the difference in hit because of a glue spot has much more of a sensitive feel for the hit than 99% of any player so I think that part may be just in a persons head and nothing else. I tell you what, you won't feel it.

So, in a nut shell, not an issue at all.

I hold a tip between my thumb and index finger. I apply the thin Cyno. I spread it over the tip with a toothpick and let it absorb for a few seconds. Any remaining glue gets dabbed up with the edge of a paper towel. I then give it a blast with the air hose and let it further dry for a few minutes.

I have been known to get glue on my fingers but seldom a tip. After I have trimmed a tip down to the proper diameter, I have never seen a shiny glue spot. Know why, because they aren't there.

And to further this, layered tips are made using glue. I would believe that any hard spot created by glue is already in the tip itself when it was made. It isn't added later. Just a thought.

My conclusion is, another Kamui gimmick. Just some more smoke and mirrors to make one think that they are purchasing a superior product for more money than necessary. More new tips have hit the market place in the last while. Kamui has to give the illusion that they are keeping up with new innovations and keeping abreast of the tip market. Nothing more, nothing less.
 
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I don't get it?:confused: Why would I buy this tip over the "black"? I have a great installer,so what is the benefit for me?

It seems to be something to just release. Is this the like a pad?
 
If you'd like to get a good pic of the tip, go to YouTube and view: how to install kamui clear. I couldn't copy the link to make it easy.
 
KamuiTips.com will usually drop in to give an explanation on tips or chalk.

What I am interested in is an explanation of why they added a piece of plastic, acrylic or some other material developed by NASA Engineers specifically for Kamui and exclusive to only them.

Is it to enhance the playability of the tip itself.

It was suggested in another thread that it might be to keep the tip from wicking up glue when installed.

If this is the case, pretty much every repairman will prep a tip in such a way as to not allow this to happen. Now, in prepping a tip, most will use a application of thin Cyno to the bottom of a tip. By doing this, the tip will wick up enuff glue to cover approx the bottom layer of a layered tip.

Having approx one and the bottom layer obviously harder than the rest of the tip. Will this affect the hit of the tip enuff to alter the hit that the player is sensitive to and feel.

Man, I have been doing this to mine and my customers tips as long as I have been installing and I can't tell the difference in hit and none of my customers have complained. What they will complain about is having a tip pop off during a league game tho.

By adding a piece of plastic to the bottom of the tip. Is this essentially the
same as having the bottom layer of the tip harder than the rest of the tip as a result from prepping the install.

Its a piece of plastic that will sit on top of a hard material known as a ferrule.

Ferrules come in different hardness from soft to extremely hard. Titan to any of the Ivorines. If I like a soft hit and use a soft ferrule material and a soft tip, thats the last thing that I want is a piece of unknown hardness material in between my ferrule and tip.

Some like myself like medium hard ferrule with either a soft or medium tip, depending on the tip itself to achieve the hit that I like.

So, it would be nice to hear a reason for the pad. Then we will know.

One of the guys is experimenting with 3/4" discs cut from a CD disc.
He is testing the cd pads with the same shaft with and without the pads using the same tip.

I think he may weigh in with the results after he is done testing.

I will be looking forward to buying one tip with the pad to see what the material is made of.

I haven't any idea of what the price of the new tips will be.

But, unless the pad gives you a serious edge over ordinary tips, I would let your installer worry about prepping your tip so it will stay put.

As a side note. Mike Lambros gave Tom Hay the ultimate compliment. He told Tom that he will be using the Ultra Skin tips on all of his cues. A lot of people are starting to feel the same way.
Is some other tip manufacturer starting to feel the heat perhaps?
 
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I'm still trying to get past the fact that you wore a tip out in "months". You must scuff as opposed to "pick" compacted chalk off your tip often.

Just trying to apply some critical thinking here. Two thoughts come to mind relative to installation of a tip. If the person putting the tip on the cue is careless enough to get the glue on the side of the tip, what would make you think that having the pad will keep them from doing it anyway? The second is relative to layered tips. Has anyone ever done the research to find out home much wicking takes place when the layers are glued together by the manufacturer? What happens as you scuff and wear down a layered tip and get to a glue layer? Do you scuff through it to get to the next layer of leather without any glue showing through? I would think that at the glue and each layer, there would be signs showing the glue that has wicked into the leather layer, and that would seem to make the same hard spot you were referring to. I understand and agree that it could make a hard spot if it wicks into the tip from the side.
 
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