if i was playing a c yea, but only a c as the out isnt that hard with no balls tied up.
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(as long as your not laying on 4" pockets)draw the cue off the 1 giving yourself an angle on the 2.after this shot, draw the cue past the 5 to 1st diamond past side pocket then to the end rail. this will give you perfect on the 3. if you over stroke it hits the 6 as is comes of the end rail. if you under stroke it it hits the 5 and slides downtable. as long as you dont get dead straight on the 3 you should have a simple leave for the 4. after the 4, depending on how you hit the 2, your out from here should be pretty generic.RiverCity said:The reason is fisherman money in bars........... it can be good if you are willing to push. But no, I dont know Tim.
Chuck
playing the 2 with high inside is stupid. unless you get dead nuts perfect on the 2 to give yourself the exact right angle to keep from hitting the 9 you still have the chance of scratching in the side. before you start criticising their way of runnig a rack you might need to pull your head out of your own ars before you comment. and if i went one of the ways, i would go his not yours.cubc said:Bluesteel - I need the 5 out from you if you can run complicated racks like that on demand. edit: nevermind. You couldnt run a rack to save your life with the way you would 'attempt' to play the rest of your shape on the following cuetable pages you have listed. They're not even the right way to go about running a rack at all.
Personally I like holding the cueball on the 1 with inside english and following with top inside on the 2 and coming down for the 3 with a tough cut.
DrCue'sProtege said:did anyone noticed that you have the angle immediately to move out the 3-Ball from the rail, and make it more playable? and the 2-Ball is fairly close to the rail, for a possible rail first shot.
just thought i might point this out. not sure if its worthwhile to consider or not. hope SJM, Blackjack or Jude Rosenstock chime in here, always value their opinions.
DCP
Patrick Johnson said:Looks to me like this slow rolling shape on the 2 may work (depending on the exact layout of the CB, 1 and 4). If it did I might try this in order to get a predictable angle on the 2:
pj
chgo
this is a bad choice. you could very easily leave cue ball on the rail or even scratch off the 3. i have always thought never move balls if you dnt have to. this is a difficult out,yes. impossible,no. the only issue is getting on the 3. but you cant guarantee what kind of hit, if any that you get on the 3. what good does it do you when you hit the 3 full and it goes 2 rails out and sits between the cue and 2??? this situation, dont move the 3, play position for the 3. if you dont got it, play safe, but the out is there.DrCue'sProtege said:did anyone noticed that you have the angle immediately to move out the 3-Ball from the rail, and make it more playable? and the 2-Ball is fairly close to the rail, for a possible rail first shot.
just thought i might point this out. not sure if its worthwhile to consider or not. hope SJM, Blackjack or Jude Rosenstock chime in here, always value their opinions.
DCP
a big problem with this is if you dont hit the 4 full or if you end end jacked up over the four. again, dont move balls unless you have to. but the table does suck though.Jude Rosenstock said:I like this approach. Also, if you get that angle on the 2-ball, you should be able to draw straight back and bump that 4-ball again. This table still sucks though.
subdude1974 said:a big problem with this is if you dont hit the 4 full or if you end end jacked up over the four. again, dont move balls unless you have to. but the table does suck though.
Yep, it's a pick-your-poison kinda rack...Jude Rosenstock said:Well, given the situation here, I think bumping the 4-ball is a small risk. Besides, it's difficult to judge w/ a diagram but in real life, you may be able to control exactly how you bump the 4 so that you avoid the pitfalls you speak of. What really sucks is, even after you solve this little problem, you have more problems in store!