Oil Finish on Cues

abcdefg

abcdefg

Banned
Hi,

May I enquire from all the folks here about who makes a what oil you like as a finish on your cue butt and why??? Please include how the finish looks (shine, dull etc) and make the cue feel in your hands.

Pictures of the wood, oil and cue as well as hit/feel reviews are appreciated!!!

Thanks in advance!!!

Marvin
 
I used Tung oil on some of the guitars I made.

No pictures handy I'm afraid (I used film back then) but basically it is a low-gloss finish that shows off the wood grain to some extent. It soaks into the wood, and can failry easily be replaced by the owner when the need arises.

It tends to allow the wood to 'sing' better but does not provide the same protection as a hard finish. It tends to feel more like a new shaft (not quite slick yet) than a hard gloss finish which tends to be slightly 'sticky' in the hand.

I'm sure others will chime in too...
 
Oil finish

Try gunstock oil (Birchwood-Casey). Used it on guitars for years and used to
use it on cues. Problem: it takes a long time to build the finish to a high
sheen. However, it is hard and durable and easily repaired.



QUOTE=abcdefg;1870716]Hi,

May I enquire from all the folks here about who makes a what oil you like as a finish on your cue butt and why??? Please include how the finish looks (shine, dull etc) and make the cue feel in your hands.

Pictures of the wood, oil and cue as well as hit/feel reviews are appreciated!!!

Thanks in advance!!!

Marvin[/QUOTE]
 
Dmitry Komarov aka DBK makes danish oil on his cues. So is my cue. This is usual for russian pyramid cues too.
For pics look at my signature.
Feeling: great. First it has almost slided away out of my hand, but now its perfect.
 
i used a tung oil finish on my deano cues because i like the feel in my right hand,usually playing with wrapless or sneaky petes the hand gets clamy.the tung oil is much better for that reason alone,but the finish does not shine or look as good and thats what most people desire.my personal deano wrapless full splice did begin to look better and better with play,but again i used the finish for the fact that it did not get sticky in long sessions

dean
 
deanoc said:
i used a tung oil finish on my deano cues because i like the feel in my right hand,usually playing with wrapless or sneaky petes the hand gets clamy.the tung oil is much better for that reason alone,but the finish does not shine or look as good and thats what most people desire.my personal deano wrapless full splice did begin to look better and better with play,but again i used the finish for the fact that it did not get sticky in long sessions

dean
Click to expand...

thanks I'm sure it's a great layer but do u have any pics to help visualise?
 
QMAKER said:
Try gunstock oil (Birchwood-Casey). Used it on guitars for years and used to use it on cues. Problem: it takes a long time to build the finish to a high sheen.
However, it is hard and durable and easily repaired.
Click to expand...

Gunstock Oil, Tung Oil, takes time, care and patience, worth every coat
 
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I just picked up a can of tung oil the other day to experiment with on a sneaky conversion just to see what it looks/feels like. I know it's good on wood, but how does it do on things like phenolic joint collars and buttcaps?

Any suggestions as to how to apply? How many coats? Waiting time between coats? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
Oil finish

ragbug74 said:
I just picked up a can of tung oil the other day to experiment with on a sneaky conversion just to see what it looks/feels like. I know it's good on wood, but how does it do on things like phenolic joint collars and buttcaps?

Any suggestions as to how to apply? How many coats? Waiting time between coats? Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Click to expand...

My suggestion would be to go to a gun store and get a bottle of gunstock
sealer and undercoat (Birchwood-Casey). I prefer gunstock oil over straight tung oil and have experience with both. Wipe on thin coats with cheese cloth. You can apply about 3 coats per day in warm weather. Number of coats depends on finish desired, probably at least 12. Sand lightly with '000' steel wool after every three coats giving 4 or more days to harden between sandings. Works fine over phenolic, acrylics and other materials commonly found in cues. Wait at least 2 weeks before final sanding (up to 12000 grit-Micro) and then buff. If you hang your cue in a water tank closet (heat cures the finish) you can shorten the application and the cure time. You can also hang the cue in the sun to shorten times. Good luck. The finish is outstanding on high figured woods and the feel is something else.
 
richard's answer

Richard Black told me in 1994, wishing for oil finnish- use few drops New Motor oil and some baby powder,mix together then buff. shaft and wood. mark
 
Mohawk

Mohawk makes a product called rapid pad 50 works GREAT if you want an oil look...:thumbup:
 
Paul Rubino- billiards enyc

Contact Paul Rubino he will educate you on oil finishes. (George B.) mark
 
I like the oil finishes' feel. I had a Scruggs that was oil and it was the best feeling cue I had.

I now have Diveneys and while they shoot better for me, the back hand on the auto acrylic is not as nice as the Scruggs' oil.
 
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