Old Cue look

[Tommyd1]

I was looking at some old Gus Szamboti cues the other day and I noticed that the forearms had a beautiful honey look to them. I was told that this was from age.

Would it be possible to recreate that look on a newer cue on the forearm.

I have a Eddie Farris cue that I love, it's got the old school look and I think that honey look would look great on my cue.

I'll attach a picture of my forearm.

If any one of you guy's could accomplish this please let me know.

Thanks - Tommyd1

 

[ELBeau]

I'm sure that any number of the guys on here could knock that out for you.
There's some stain, a re-wrap, and a refinish involved, though.
Best of luck- be sure to share photos after.
~Beau

 

[cuesmith]

I was looking at some old Gus Szamboti cues the other day and I noticed that the forearms had a beautiful honey look to them. I was told that this was from age.

Would it be possible to recreate that look on a newer cue on the forearm.

I have a Eddie Farris cue that I love, it's got the old school look and I think that honey look would look great on my cue.

I'll attach a picture of my forearm.

If any one of you guy's could accomplish this please let me know.

Thanks - Tommyd1

I think a lot of the old Boti's were sprayed with lacquer rather than auto clear coat with UV protection. The Lacquer yellows with age.

 

[Tommyd1]

Cuesmith,

Yes, I was told about the lacquer finish and how it acquires that look through the aging process.

I was hoping that maybe some type of stain to the forearm could give it this look.

I realize it wouldn't be exact but somewhat close would probably look good.

I know there are people who can recreate antique furniture with great success, I'm hoping it can be done to a cue.

Thanks for your response.

Please, if anyone has more ideas please post.

 

[manwon]

I was looking at some old Gus Szamboti cues the other day and I noticed that the forearms had a beautiful honey look to them. I was told that this was from age.

Would it be possible to recreate that look on a newer cue on the forearm.

I have a Eddie Farris cue that I love, it's got the old school look and I think that honey look would look great on my cue.

I'll attach a picture of my forearm.

If any one of you guy's could accomplish this please let me know.

Thanks - Tommyd1

It is really pretty simple to duplicate that look, when I want to to give a cue that appearance I use a Danish Oil Golden Oak stain on the wood before sealing and finish application. It brings out the charactor or the wood and it gives the cue that ware Golden Glow your talking about.

Take Care

 

[rhncue]

Be forewarned that once a finish has been installed onto wood it doesn't just sit there but soaks in to a certain degree but at different depths throughout the wood. When the cue is being refinished the finish is sanded off but much that has soaked in cannot be removed. Now, when attempting to apply a stain, it will soak in at different rates and depths depending on what barrier is beneath so it often leaves a blotchy effect.

Dick

 

[ELBeau]

Be forewarned that once a finish has been installed onto wood it doesn't just sit there but soaks in to a certain degree but at different depths throughout the wood. When the cue is being refinished the finish is sanded off but much that has soaked in cannot be removed. Now, when attempting to apply a stain, it will soak in at different rates and depths depending on what barrier is beneath so it often leaves a blotchy effect.

Dick

Words from the wise.

 

[macguy]

I was looking at some old Gus Szamboti cues the other day and I noticed that the forearms had a beautiful honey look to them. I was told that this was from age.

Would it be possible to recreate that look on a newer cue on the forearm.

I have a Eddie Farris cue that I love, it's got the old school look and I think that honey look would look great on my cue.

I'll attach a picture of my forearm.

If any one of you guy's could accomplish this please let me know.

Thanks - Tommyd1

Using some shellac prier to finishing will give the wood and grain a nice look and bring out the character and highlights. Some of the new finishes are actually too clear. The wood looks lifeless so to speak. The grain and natural beauty of the wood needs to be brought out in my opinion.

 

[Tommyd1]

I like Manwons answer - but then Dick brings up a good point also thats a bit scary, I wouldn't want a blotchy look.

Please keep the replies coming, I'll be getting a tax refund soon and money burns a hole in my pocket-lol- I would love to enhance the looks of my beautiful Farris cue.

To me it's a Gus Szamboti and Balabushka all rolled into one

It was Sung Kangs personal player, he was kind enough to let me acquire it recently, he can attest to it's playing qualities.

I just love it

Tommyd1

Oh Yeah - PS: You guy's are great - I've leaned so much about cues from reading your comments over the years - I certainly appreciate all your knowledge and your sharing. A Big Thank You !!!

 

[pdcue]

I like Manwons answer - but then Dick brings up a good point also thats a bit scary, I wouldn't want a blotchy look.

Please keep the replies coming, I'll be getting a tax refund soon and money burns a hole in my pocket-lol- I would love to enhance the looks of my beautiful Farris cue.

To me it's a Gus Szamboti and Balabushka all rolled into one

It's Sung Kangs personal player, he was kind enough to let me acquire it recently, he can attest to it's playing qualities.

I just love it

Tommyd1

Oh Yeah - PS: You guy's are great - I've leaned so much about cues from reading you comments over the years - I certainly appreciate all your knowledge and your sharing. A Big Thank You !!!

I vote with Dick.

FWIW - Gus was notorious for refusing to stain maple.

One option would be to refinish it with lacquer - and wait a few years

Dale

 

[cueman]

One reason some older cues have the honey color is the way the wood was air dried for a time before going into a regular heat kiln. This produces honey colored maple even before the finish is applied. I have hot tried the following, but I can see no reason it will not work. Instead of taking the chance on a splotchy look from trying to stain the cue and finishing over it. Just partially sand the existing finish. Mix a small amount of Golden Oak alcohol based stain into your auto clear coat and shoot it over the existing finish. It will already have the honey color and will be less work than a normal refinish job.

 

[manwon]

I like Manwons answer - but then Dick brings up a good point also thats a bit scary, I wouldn't want a blotchy look.

Please keep the replies coming, I'll be getting a tax refund soon and money burns a hole in my pocket-lol- I would love to enhance the looks of my beautiful Farris cue.

To me it's a Gus Szamboti and Balabushka all rolled into one

It was Sung Kangs personal player, he was kind enough to let me acquire it recently, he can attest to it's playing qualities.

I just love it

Tommyd1

Oh Yeah - PS: You guy's are great - I've leaned so much about cues from reading your comments over the years - I certainly appreciate all your knowledge and your sharing. A Big Thank You !!!

I have never had that problem during a refinish, and I have refinished more than 100 cues, I suppose I am just lucky!!!:smile: But it could be that some have a different method of surface preparation, whatever, you decide to do good luck.

JIMO

 

[Paul Dayton]

I've been refinishing cues and furniture for 50+ years, 35 of them professionally, and probably you can get the look you want but I wouldn't attempt it.

The best and safest way to go about doing what you want would be to spray tinted clear coats until you have the color you want then overcoat it with a true clear. Dyeing and/or satining the wood is potentially irreversible and if you're wrong, you're wrong.

 

[Russell Cues]

Be forewarned that once a finish has been installed onto wood it doesn't just sit there but soaks in to a certain degree but at different depths throughout the wood. When the cue is being refinished the finish is sanded off but much that has soaked in cannot be removed. Now, when attempting to apply a stain, it will soak in at different rates and depths depending on what barrier is beneath so it often leaves a blotchy effect.

Dick

True, but you can use a wood conditioner and that will allow you to stain evenly on most any wood. I wanted to restain some pine railings at my home and pine is notorious for uneven staining but after useing a wood conditioner it stained perfect and now looks like mahagony !