Old Jw Shaft Question

FAST_N_LOOSE

<--I collect kicks too!
Silver Member
Here's An Odd One.....

Have Any Of You Guys Run Into Old Jw Shafts Where The Top Of The Inserts Were Filled With Wax?

I'm Guessing The Wax Was Added To Make It Feel Like The Shafts Fit Snug/properly On The Butt Of The Cue.

Problem Is, If You Lathe Insert Has A Longer Pin Than The Cue Does, It Cracks The Shaft Because It Pushes The Wax Through The Wood.

Lets Just Say It's A Major Pain In The Ass.
 
FAST_N_LOOSE said:
Here's An Odd One.....

Have Any Of You Guys Run Into Old Jw Shafts Where The Top Of The Inserts Were Filled With Wax?

I'm Guessing The Wax Was Added To Make It Feel Like The Shafts Fit Snug/properly On The Butt Of The Cue.

Problem Is, If You Lathe Insert Has A Longer Pin Than The Cue Does, It Cracks The Shaft Because It Pushes The Wax Through The Wood.

Lets Just Say It's A Major Pain In The Ass.
Marcus, are you sure it is wax and not some type of glue or epoxy. I had a shaft that had epoxy on the other side of the insert and a little piece broke off and would rattle on every shot . I had to break it up into smaller pieces to get it out.
 
FAST_N_LOOSE said:
Here's An Odd One.....

Have Any Of You Guys Run Into Old Jw Shafts Where The Top Of The Inserts Were Filled With Wax?

I'm Guessing The Wax Was Added To Make It Feel Like The Shafts Fit Snug/properly On The Butt Of The Cue.

Problem Is, If You Lathe Insert Has A Longer Pin Than The Cue Does, It Cracks The Shaft Because It Pushes The Wax Through The Wood.

Lets Just Say It's A Major Pain In The Ass.

I'd say you need a new mandrell .298X14 sticking out 3/4" counter sink at .550 I.D. for .3/8" deep
This will allow you to work on everything that uses a 14 TPI shaft.
 
For simply driving the shaft for cleaning, I sometimes make spacers out of phenolic or delrin to go between the face of the drive pins and face of the shaft, so as to take up the space, or sometimes to accept a pilot, should the drive in question not accept one. Would be nicer to make some up like Mike mentioned though, that way there's never any issues to work around, but this gets me by ocasionally.

Couple of thoughts on the wax mentioned. It could be epoxy like Willie mentioned, but If indeed It is actually wax, Maybe It's possible It was put in there to keep epoxy from running into the insert when It was glued into the shaft. I've seen wax harden over time before, but the epoxy on the other side could also harden, making a cap of sorts.

I always try to pay attention to how deep the bore is in a insert or the threads of a shaft. Reason being, is even If the insert isn't capped off, the end of the bore in the maple could be shallow, and driving a longer pin up into that can cause the wood to split also.

I've even ran accross brass inserts that are capped in brass on the bottoms. I'm guessing that made it easier to slop epoxy in, to get good coverage, but there could be some other reason that's not related. Just a guess on My part.

Greg
 
Waldo's said:
Marcus, are you sure it is wax and not some type of glue or epoxy. I had a shaft that had epoxy on the other side of the insert and a little piece broke off and would rattle on every shot . I had to break it up into smaller pieces to get it out.

NO DOUBT IT'S WAX. I GOT MOST OF IT OUT NOW.
 
Michael Webb said:
I'd say you need a new mandrell .298X14 sticking out 3/4" counter sink at .550 I.D. for .3/8" deep
This will allow you to work on everything that uses a 14 TPI shaft.

I HAVE SOME HERE THAT WORK WITHOUT ISSUE. MY BIGGEST QUESTION WAS, IS THIS SOMETHING DONE ON JW SHAFTS ON A REGULAR BASIS TO MAKE THEM APPEAR TO BE SNUG? OR WAS THE WAX SOMETHING THAT WAS DONE BY A REPAIRMAN DOWN THE LINE SOMEWHERE?
 
Cue Crazy said:
For simply driving the shaft for cleaning, I sometimes make spacers out of phenolic or delrin to go between the face of the drive pins and face of the shaft, so as to take up the space, or sometimes to accept a pilot, should the drive in question not accept one. Would be nicer to make some up like Mike mentioned though, that way there's never any issues to work around, but this gets me by ocasionally.

Couple of thoughts on the wax mentioned. It could be epoxy like Willie mentioned, but If indeed It is actually wax, Maybe It's possible It was put in there to keep epoxy from running into the insert when It was glued into the shaft. I've seen wax harden over time before, but the epoxy on the other side could also harden, making a cap of sorts.

I always try to pay attention to how deep the bore is in a insert or the threads of a shaft. Reason being, is even If the insert isn't capped off, the end of the bore in the maple could be shallow, and driving a longer pin up into that can cause the wood to split also.

I've even ran accross brass inserts that are capped in brass on the bottoms. I'm guessing that made it easier to slop epoxy in, to get good coverage, but there could be some other reason that's not related. Just a guess on My part.

Greg

IT'S A LOT OF WAX. I USED A DRILL BIT AND TURNED IT BY HAND IN REVERSE TO PULL THE MATERIAL OUT, AND IN BOTH SHAFTS IT WAS A PINK COLORED SHAFT. I ALSO JUST CHECKED THE OTHER 2 JW SHAFTS I HAVE HERE, AND THEY HAVE THE SAME THING.....THAT DOESN'T HELP ME ANSWER MY QUESTION THOUGH, BECAUSE ALL THE SHAFTS WERE MADE FOR THE SAME CUE.
 
FAST_N_LOOSE said:
I HAVE SOME HERE THAT WORK WITHOUT ISSUE. MY BIGGEST QUESTION WAS, IS THIS SOMETHING DONE ON JW SHAFTS ON A REGULAR BASIS TO MAKE THEM APPEAR TO BE SNUG? OR WAS THE WAX SOMETHING THAT WAS DONE BY A REPAIRMAN DOWN THE LINE SOMEWHERE?

I don't know, I haven't seen like that yet
 
Michael Webb said:
I don't know, I haven't seen like that yet

THANKS FOR THE REPLY.....I'M SO BOTHERED BY THIS, I'M TEMPTED TO BUY THE OLD JW OFF EBAY TO CHECK THE SHAFTS, JUST TO EASE MY CURIOSITY
 
Hey Marcus,

Just a guess, but I think Bill may have used the wax so that the insert can be installed easier than without them. It maybe that his tap is very precise so sometime it's hard to install the insert. I always put wax on my pin and insert so they don't skeeq when I'm inserting them.

Regards,
Duc.
 
Cuemaster98 said:
Hey Marcus,

Just a guess, but I think Bill may have used the wax so that the insert can be installed easier than without them. It maybe that his tap is very precise so sometime it's hard to install the insert. I always put wax on my pin and insert so they don't skeeq when I'm inserting them.

Regards,
Duc.

I'D UNDERSTAND THAT.....BUT THERE IS ALOT OF WAX IN THERE. IT WAS USED TO MAKE IT FEEL SNUG. NOT THAT THE WAX IS GONE THE FIT ON THE SHAFTS IS HORRIBLY SLOPPY.
 
FAST_N_LOOSE said:
THANKS FOR THE REPLY.....I'M SO BOTHERED BY THIS, I'M TEMPTED TO BUY THE OLD JW OFF EBAY TO CHECK THE SHAFTS, JUST TO EASE MY CURIOSITY

Check with Jazz (HO) and Scott R. They both have JW's. Hope this helps.
 
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