Olhausen Champion Tables...

These were my thoughts as well.

I guess the biggest thing is that a brand new Gold Crown is about $2K more than a new Grand Champion.

Of course, if It's that much better, than it's worth it. I was just wondering if I'm going to notice $2K worth of difference between the two tables???

Should I save some money, and possibly wish I had gotten a Gold Crown, or should I just get the best and be happy???



you coud save the money and get the olhousan but you might regret it next year. Youll almost never regret getting a gold crown.
 
OK guys, we just closed on a house that has a great basement so I am FINALLY able to get a pool table for home.

I'm leaning between the Brunswick Gold Crown V and the Olhousen Grand Champion. I know a fair amount about the Crown's, as I've played on them.

I know NOTHING about the Champion series, other than they seem to be put together pretty well and sell a lot of these tables.

My question is this: Anybody have any experience with these tables that can make a recommendation one way or the other???

Thanks!

I will be brief since I am at work and need to um ahhh WORK! ;)

But look at my signature; I own a Olhasuen. But I do not recommend an Olhausen for a serious player. I assume you are because you are here...on a Billiards forum.:wink:

So! Diamond & Brunswick top the list for players tables. The rest I have no opinion or experience to give one. But the Olhausen makes a great "Rec Room" table but they have unforgiving pockets the slate is made with holes in the center. The plus side to Olhausen is you will never need to replace the cushion rubber and they are great banking/kicking tables. But If I could do it over again I would have searched for a good used Brunswick GC.


So on top of the way the pockets already play I decided to extend my subrails a 1/4" on each end to close my pockets a total of 1/2". To do this I had to replace the rubber that we now know never wears out...after only one year of use too! :banghead:

So go Brunswick! IMO

Hope this helps!
 
If you are going with that line of thinking, just go out and buy the absolute cheapest table that you can find.

Doesn't really make much sense when you think about it does it??

Russ if you're ever thinking of parting with that beauty of a table you have I will travel...:thumbup:

TRADE FOR AN OLHAUSEN?! :shrug:
 
i thought they all did? no?

Not that I am aware of. The picture I threw together is what one of the end (3 piece) slates looks like on a Olhausen. I am not sure if any othe tables are like this. As a matter of fact the local Kasson deal here in WI uses it as his sales tactic....he has to use something cause he's not much of a sales guy...more of a butcher if you ask me. I talk from experience. The to main tables sold here in South eastern WI are Kasson and Olhausen.
slate-1.jpg
 
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not that i am aware of. The picture i threw together is what one of the end (3 piece) slates looks like on a olhausen. I am not sure if any othe tables are like this. As a matter of fact the local kasson deal here in wi uses it as his sales tactic....he has to use something cause he's not much of a sales guy...more of a butcher if you ask me. I talk from experience. The to main tables sold here in south eastern wi are kasson and olhausen.

my gc's have end holes as well....... They are needed for the head and foot rails to bolt down and be solid

P.S. DAKOTA, BUY THE GC.
 
my gc's have end holes as well....... They are needed for the head and foot rails to bolt down and be solid

P.S. DAKOTA, BUY THE GC.
i thought that was the case. not an issue if filled correctly. the first guy that set my table up used plaster of paris which wasnt great. the next guy to do it used wax. bee's wax i believe. its been flat and smooth for 2 years and counting.
 
my gc's have end holes as well....... They are needed for the head and foot rails to bolt down and be solid

P.S. DAKOTA, BUY THE GC.

I edited picture. I realized I forgot the holes on the outer ends of the slate. Those holes are the ones to hold the rails. The one pointed out in the picture is in the center of the slate and is only on the Olhausen's as far as I know.
 
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I edited picture. I realized I forgot the holes on the outer ends of the slate. Those holes are the ones to hold the rails. The one pointed out in the picture is in the center of the slate and is only on the Olhausen's as far as I know.
yes, you are right, i just googled a bunch of pictures. i thought most tables had the center holes.:grin-square:
 
Russ if you're ever thinking of parting with that beauty of a table you have I will travel...:thumbup:

TRADE FOR AN OLHAUSEN?! :shrug:

Ummmmmmmmmmmm.............. Thanks, but no thanks!!!!

I love my table. If you're ever out to L.A. be sure to look me up and we can play a little 9 ball~!!

My GCI has holes on the perimeter of the slates only and 3 brass sleeved pins between the slates. My old GCIII was the same.

Best,

Russ..
 
Ummmmmmmmmmmm.............. Thanks, but no thanks!!!!

I love my table. If you're ever out to L.A. be sure to look me up and we can play a little 9 ball~!!

My GCI has holes on the perimeter of the slates only and 3 brass sleeved pins between the slates. My old GCIII was the same.

Best,

Russ..

Oh I will fo-sho look you up if ever in L.A. I already have another friend there with connections so it is always good to know people wherever you go.

You'll have to give me the 8...I mean the 7 and the break...yeah that's it..the 7 and the break and we'll play for a 150 a rack...that's right a $1.50 a rack! :grin-square:
 
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Not the same thing...

If you are going with that line of thinking, just go out and buy the absolute cheapest table that you can find.

Doesn't really make much sense when you think about it does it??

I don't think you actually read my remark, so let me go over this again with a better analogy.

Let's say I'm looking for a fast sports car. I can buy, say, a corvette, or I can buy a Ferrari. If my only need is speed, is there going to be enough difference in speed to justify the price difference? See what I mean?

I'm not comparing the Gold Crown to a bar table. I'm comparing a Gold Crown to what I thought was the top of the line model from a competitor and asking if there is a huge difference in the way they play, or if it is a slight difference. If there is only a slight difference, that might make the Champion a better value.

It seems like the opinions I'm getting is that there is a HUGE difference between the two tables, and even a couple of grand difference is not enough of an incentive to get the Champion.

I'm going to do some research to see if getting a Diamond table is even an option here in Bismarck ND. If not...

I'm going with the Gold Crown!
 
Let's say I'm looking for a fast sports car. I can buy, say, a corvette, or I can buy a Ferrari. If my only need is speed, is there going to be enough difference in speed to justify the price difference? See what I mean?

Take those cars to the road race track, and you will find that the Corvette will require a transmission cooler, differential cooler, brake ducts, maybe a bigger engine radiator that are built into the Ferrari. {If you want to get serious with the Vette, you will require a set of Brembo, Willwood, or StopTech brake calipers and rotors to match} At the tracks, the Z06s run for 10-15 minutes and come in to cool off (Texas summer heat). I have run my (completely factory stock) Ferrari on the track for 72 minutes, consuming a whole tank of gas.

I own both. The Vette is a much better road car, faster in a drag race, the Ferrari is a much better track car (excepting for maintanence expenses), and much easier to drive with significant slip angles on the tires. So it depends on how much speed you want, what angles you want to express that speed at, and how long you want to be able to maintain that speed.
 
Olhausen Champion vs Diamond Pro Am

Hey Dakota I get what your saying. I feel it is worth the money difference. As I said before I have played on the Olhausen before but I bought a Diamond Pro Am. I have been inside and out of a lot of different tables and the guys at Diamond have it right. Man there just bullet proof. I am talking about the constrution - one piece slate- the leveling system-ball return supper quiet-the solid rail construction-leather pocket liners no metal castings around the pockets to contend with and the table comes in one piece very stable." You can also break it down if you had a tight spot to go through" The best deal is to buy one at an event like the US Open. They call it tournament used but they are new. For example at the Supper Billiards Expo the 9' went for four thousand that was in march. Brian Miller from Diamond can help you with any questions you may have 812-288-7665. Well I hope I didnt agravate you much! Good luck with what ever you get and have fun. "C.D."
 
But look at my signature; I own a Olhasuen. But I do not recommend an Olhausen for a serious player. I assume you are because you are here...on a Billiards forum.:wink:

. But the Olhausen makes a great "Rec Room" table
:banghead:

So go Brunswick! IMO

Im glad someone else said it. I was gonna say that olhasuens are just 1 step above a "furniture" table. I just didnt wanna get into a flame war with people who own one. Theyre not bad tables but nowhere near the level of the GC.

u got it straight from an olhausen owner. what else do you need?
 
Dakota, My hall has O's and I much prefer Gold Crowns. Perhaps the biggest difference in how they play is in the corner pockets. The facings on the O's are angled out much more than the GC or Diamond, and more than they should be IMO. This results in the infamous Olhausen rattler on shots hit near the rail with any speed. RKC said it is a combination of the cut of the facing and the accufast cushion. A ball hit down the rail, because of the facing angle, wants to ricochet into the opposite facing rather than toward the pocket. This will happen on even well struck shots that hit the facing deep in the jaws.

On a GC or Diamond shots hit along the rail with speed also have to be accurately struck to go in but on an Olhausen it is almost impossible and that is just not right. If you're shooting at the 8 ball near the long rail at one end and the 9 ball is at the other end of the table on the short rail, it is virtually impossible to hit the shot at the speed required to get shape. Almost better off playing safe on the 8. Sorry, but that is not how the game should be played. Numerous times when facing this shot playing with another regular we will say to each other "Should you hit the shot you're supposed to hit and know it won't go in or not?"

My hall has 'em so that is what I play on, but I'm thinking of getting a table myself and because I'm very familiar with how they play I would not even consider getting an Olhausen.

YMMV, this is just my experience. But the Olhausen "rattler" is pretty well known. I even heard it mentioned by a commentator once after it happened to a player on a TV match.

As PJ said earlier, the rails are definitely lower. You can definitely get to more of the cue ball with the tip of your cue when the CB is on the rail. That's kind of nice though it puts you at a disadvantage when you play on any other table.
 
Yeah, if Olhausen wants to start catering to the "non-amateur" more then a piece of furniture crowd they should revise the facing/angles of the pockets.

Here is a video of a guy that has the same issue I do. It isn't just hitting the rail first and rattling. I have this guys issue to. I dread stroke shots because of this. As a matter of fact when practicing (very rare these days) I will consider these rattles IN.
 
Yeah, if Olhausen wants to start catering to the "non-amateur" more then a piece of furniture crowd they should revise the facing/angles of the pockets.

Here is a video of a guy that has the same issue I do. It isn't just hitting the rail first and rattling. I have this guys issue to. I dread stroke shots because of this. As a matter of fact when practicing (very rare these days) I will consider these rattles IN.

Glad to see that it's a common problem with Olhausen and not just my table. My table rattles balls out all the time and it's very frustrating. It makes it impossible to play 14.1. Nothing is more aggrivating than rattling a ball after a few racks.
 
Brian Miller from Diamond can help you with any questions you may have 812-288-7665. Well I hope I didnt agravate you much! Good luck with what ever you get and have fun. "C.D."

Nope, no aggravation here. I left a message for Brian, so hopefully he'll get back to me tomorrow.

If not... The Gold Crown WINS!!!
 
Nope, no aggravation here. I left a message for Brian, so hopefully he'll get back to me tomorrow.

If not... The Gold Crown WINS!!!

I have to agree with everyone else here. I love Diamonds and would purchase a Diamond if I was in the market for a new pool table; however, between a Gold Crown and an Olhausen, I would go for the Gold Crown. The extra dollars would be worth it and I would be happy to pay even more for a Diamond.

I have an Olhausen and had the same problem as described by other posters with the corner pockets. However, I had RKC work on my pockets and they play much, much better now than they did before. I had them tightened to 4.5" and they play much easier (truer is probably a better word) than they did when they were wider.

I am very happy with my table now; however, they have had the RKC treatment, which makes it play much better than before. Having said that, I would still go for a Diamond if I were buying a new table based on playing on Diamonds in the past.
 
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