I use standard self-adhesive sanding discs. I purchase them from McMaster-Carr. I've tried everything from 40-120 grit. I tend to prefer 80 grit. 120 is too fine, and tends to clog with contact cement. 80 will as well, but you need to be careful. You could go with 60 grit, but it leaves a very coarse finish.
As always Jack, beautiful work.
Yes... Makita 10" sliding compound miter saw. You need a good, sharp 80 tooth blade and I also spray the blade before each cut with dry lube spray. Go slow and say a little prayer and you'll be fine!
Fantastic work, looks great!!!
so I might just end up with 1/4 and get as close to the 141 without getting too thin.
I've used 3/8" facings. Sometimes, it's difficult to source 3/8" thick 50A durometer neoprene. I usually try to find it on Amazon. You will need a 2" wide by 3' strip, for one table. 60A durometer will work, but it will slightly deaden the pocket. However, it's not extreme, and you may not even notice.I've made the decision to sand the facings to a little better angle once I get them. It would be pretty silly to not try to help the issue since I have a table saw and can make a proper jig. No use having to recover the cushions multiple times. I'll have to get the calibration plate and sandpaper discs.
This little bugger is slightly over 145 degrees at the moment. I'm going to try to get as close to 141 as I can. I read 143 is the point where kick out starts getting bad, so I'll shoot to get under that. I'm trying to decide on thickness.
1/4 should get me close but not fully to 141 if I can trust my trig. 3/8 would get me there, but I'm wondering, how dead will that make the pockets? I've never really messed with shimmed tables and such so I don't have any frame of reference. Luckily the pockets have a generous mouth, at 5 1/8, so even if I go up to 3/8, I'm looking at 4 5/8". I'm kind of scared to make them that tight
Thanks again for all the advice, you guys are awesome!
Ah that makes sense, the facing would be at an angle so slightly tighter. I imagine I'll post some "pre op" pictures to see if the setup looks ok. It's gonna be awhile before I do the actual job, still trying to gather supplies and get everything in order. Thanks for the info on the facing material.
Usually, we use a standard contact cement. Barge cement, 3M-10, Parabond, RKC250, Weldwood.. Any will do. However, if you will be sanding the facing thinner than maybe 1/8", you may want to opt for cyanoacrylate (super glue), as a safety measure. This is not the preferred method, as it makes future replacement of the facings more difficult. Also, the CA will harden the joint. When you sand the facing too thin, the heat will weaken the contact cement, and cause the bond to fail. Just take your time, and you should be fine.
You have a couple of options...An update and important question:
The angles, without facings are inconsistent. Some nitwit must have had the chop saw set incorrectly.
End rail number 1: Right end (holding wood towards me, rubber away)is 142.3 degrees, left is is 145.4.
End rail 2: Right end is 142.4, left is 145.4.
So around 3 degrees difference between sides on a single end rail, both rails. I'm going to go out on a limb and assume the whole table is like this, all right sides are probably 142, all left 145. So what's the solution? I want them consistent, should I take them all to the same angle (145ish) before attempting to put facings?
I'm assuming starting with 3 degrees difference will effect play. I could adjust consistency and make the angle right with the facing, but then the thickness varies on each facing. I want the table to play as good as I can get it without doing subrail extensions or new cushions. If it's better to just make the difference with the facing, I can probably deal with the inconsistent rebound if the angles are the same. It's not great but it has to be better than it is now with wildly different angles lol.
I already knew it but I'm getting a new respect for table mechanics. I can handle the situation but would definitely appreciate any advice.
I believe so. Just understand that the thickness of each facing will be tapered, and will vary from pocket to pocket. I wouldn't sand it any thinner than 1/8", at the thinnest point.
Thanks! I'll go this route. In an ideal world the facings would be the same thickness, but this table isn't ideal lol. I have some 3/8" facings, I'll see what I can do, being careful to get the finished angle the same. I was honestly floored when I saw a 3 degree difference between the cuts. This is the anniversary model, the rest of the table looks and performs great, I guess it's just another strike against furniture tables. I know I'd never let a table leave my factory with such cuts, it's even the anniversary model, which makes it even stranger at the lack of pride in the finished product. It makes a lot more sense why this table plays so weird at the pockets.
Thanks! I'll go this route. In an ideal world the facings would be the same thickness, but this table isn't ideal lol. I have some 3/8" facings, I'll see what I can do, being careful to get the finished angle the same. I was honestly floored when I saw a 3 degree difference between the cuts. This is the anniversary model, the rest of the table looks and performs great, I guess it's just another strike against furniture tables. I know I'd never let a table leave my factory with such cuts, it's even the anniversary model, which makes it even stranger at the lack of pride in the finished product. It makes a lot more sense why this table plays so weird at the pockets.
Will do! I had to take a break from the action to work on the honey dew list, new storm door is not installed. I'll try to take some pics and keep everybody updated.
I'm the one who posted the 3/16" facing change in the first place, YES it'll fix 90% of the ball rattle!!!!
3/8" + 3/8" facings equal 3/4" plus the angle width of another 50% = 3/8" total pocket closure is 1 1/8" from original opening, so 5 1/8" pockets turn out to be 4" minus the original 1/8" facings, totaling 1/8" + 1/8" + angle width of 50%=1/8" total opening change is 3/8" added back to the 4" for an overall pocket opening of 4 3/8"!!
