Yeah kicking under the one short rail is no good here. If the 1 is close to the middle of the table I might just try and spin it away with outside and try to lay on the 7.
One Pocket Players: Removing Balls From Jaws of Opponents Pocket
- Thread starter ktrepal85
- Start date
Yeah kicking under the one short rail is no good here. If the 1 is close to the middle of the table I might just try and spin it away with outside and try to lay on the 7.
So you're talking about top or bottom spin? Those are the kinds that affect CB sliding.
I don't understand this either. You seem to be saying that a faster stroke and a slower stroke can deliver the same force to the CB, but a slower stroke is less forceful by definition.
That's reasonable thinking, but unfortunately I'm pretty sure gripping the cue tighter actually does not add the mass of your arm to the force delivered to the CB. Even with a tight grip the soft flesh in your hand "decouples" the cue and your hand/arm during contact, so the force delivered to the CB depends pretty much solely on cue speed and cue mass.
Thanks for the compliment. If I'm "provoking" discussion about things I see being misunderstood and misstated here, then I'm succeeding.
I understand that having your statement questioned isn't the most fun. Sorry, but I'm more concerned about seeing quality info disseminated here.
pj
chgo
Last edited:
To point out the obvious, with the OB about centered on the pocket, the difference between the long rail and short rail kicks is the CB's angle into each rail. If the CB was near the opponent's pocket, then kicking off the short rail would be easier than the long rail.
What if the OB was centered on the pocket and you could put the CB in either place? Which would you prefer? Which offers the best strategic outcome?
pj
chgo
I prefer kicking off the long rail 'cause I feel I can control where the one goes better.
If the seven wasn't there, I could reverse the trap by going to the short rail and getting
the one near my hole while moving the fifteen ball.
Coming off the short rail, you have to aim wide and spin it for the thinner cut on the
kick-bank....this gets the carom on the fifteen.
This is what I was referring to
So is no one but me playing the four ball combo on the nine while kicking the one ball out?
If I was confident of hitting the 15 pretty square I'd shoot that regardless of the 7. But that's too big an if for me.
pj
chgo
For practical purposes there are four and only four things that determine everything about how the cue ball reacts (everything about the speed and spin). They are:
1. Where you hit the cue ball.
2. The speed you hit the cue ball.
3. The elevation of your cue.
4. The weight of your cue.
So when thinking about or describing a shot, those four things (well really only the first three since the weight of the persons stick can't be changed for a shot so usually no need to even mention it) are all you need to think about or describe when explaining to someone how to hit the cue ball on a particular shot (and number 3 is generally assumed to be "as level as possible" unless stated otherwise so you usually don't have to mention that one either, which leaves just the where and at what speed).
Anything to do with grip, wrist, poke or smooth stroke, or anything else like that have zero affect on the cue ball (unless they affect one of the above things like making you hit the cue ball in a different place than you intended or think did because of a certain grip that changed your impact point for example). So in describing your shot above, all you really need to tell us was where you hit the cue ball and at what speed. The rest of the stuff makes no difference. All the cue ball knows is where it was hit, how hard, at what angle, and with what weight of cue.
If a "punch" or certain length of back stroke or how tight your grip is or any of that is having any affect on how your cue balls reacts it is only because it is changing where you are hitting the cue ball or how hard you are hitting the cue ball.
Set the shot up and repeat it a bunch of times until you figure it out.
My success rate on a Gold Crown is pretty good....
...a bit scarier for me on the quicker railed Diamond.
But the shot is worth learning....like the break, it's tricky....but by repetition, you get to own it.