I've got a 10 by 16ft area. I would like to get an 8ft table. What do you all think?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Opinion please on space for a table
- Thread starter crazysnake
- Start date
Everything you need to know is on this page have fun
https://www.brunswickbilliards.com/room-size-requirements/
Shove it into a corner...you got one side and one end to practice on.
This sounds interesting. Do you have any experience with this configuration? I would imagine that this would keep me in stroke somewhat.
Yep, I know two cuemakers that have done it.....
...they get to test their product....and keep in stroke.
That's tight! The closest u want to go is 60" (cue length) from the interior dimensions. An 8' tbl is 44" x 88" (actual playing surface). So u need 164" or 13'-8" for the width min. (60+60+44)
..... Make the room bigger (what I did), get a 7' and still be cursing, or go with bumper pool!
That 10' dimension is a killer.
..... Make the room bigger (what I did), get a 7' and still be cursing, or go with bumper pool!
That 10' dimension is a killer.
Great idea! Better than no table for sure!
Space for a table...
Without question, you will find those dimensions on Brunswick Billiards web-site, as well as most others, to be somewhat less than ideal.
Here's a strong suggestion for you. Find the dimensions for the playing surface. For a 4X8 table, the playing surface is 46" X 92". This is determined by measuring point of cushion to point of cushion...NOT the rail.
To determine your minimum room width (no obstructions nor need for shorter cue), take the 46" width and add 4" for each long rail/cushion. That totals
54". Now, assume the standard cue length to be 58". If the cue ball is frozen to the rail and you need to shoot directly across the table, you'll need ALL of the width above for proper cueing. Add another 58" for the "other side" of the table, and total the width, as follows: 54"+58"+58" = 170".
Converting that to feet, you'd need a minimum room width of 14' 2"...!!!
Now, use the same logic for the length of the table and you've determined your actual, minimum room dimensions for "unobstructed play"...!!!
YES...you can obviously get away with something less...but, on those rare occasions with the cue ball frozen to the cushion and your object ball directly across the table, those aforementioned dimensions are required...otherwise, you'll have to have a shorter cue for such circumstances...it's totally up to you how you want to approach the space with ALL of this in mind.
I hope this helps you...I can tell you that the table manufacturers all consistently offer suggestions with less than ideal space, but when questioned, they acknowledge that their information is NOT ideal for ALL situations...!!!
Without question, you will find those dimensions on Brunswick Billiards web-site, as well as most others, to be somewhat less than ideal.
Here's a strong suggestion for you. Find the dimensions for the playing surface. For a 4X8 table, the playing surface is 46" X 92". This is determined by measuring point of cushion to point of cushion...NOT the rail.
To determine your minimum room width (no obstructions nor need for shorter cue), take the 46" width and add 4" for each long rail/cushion. That totals
54". Now, assume the standard cue length to be 58". If the cue ball is frozen to the rail and you need to shoot directly across the table, you'll need ALL of the width above for proper cueing. Add another 58" for the "other side" of the table, and total the width, as follows: 54"+58"+58" = 170".
Converting that to feet, you'd need a minimum room width of 14' 2"...!!!
Now, use the same logic for the length of the table and you've determined your actual, minimum room dimensions for "unobstructed play"...!!!
YES...you can obviously get away with something less...but, on those rare occasions with the cue ball frozen to the cushion and your object ball directly across the table, those aforementioned dimensions are required...otherwise, you'll have to have a shorter cue for such circumstances...it's totally up to you how you want to approach the space with ALL of this in mind.
I hope this helps you...I can tell you that the table manufacturers all consistently offer suggestions with less than ideal space, but when questioned, they acknowledge that their information is NOT ideal for ALL situations...!!!
Think that may dimensions for an oversized 8'. Standard 8' is 44" x 88" (inside cushion to cushion)
But still no good for this situation.
LMFAO!!!If you place the table in a corner make sure it has a ball return.
If you place the table in a corner make sure it has a ball return.
Excellent point, sir.....or have a big wing span.
"Real 4 x 8s are 46 x 92... 44 x 88 is the dreaded "home" table. Adequate for
laundry storage perhaps, but not pool.
Dale
Not exactly.
Pool table dimensions are according to a secret formula. I will now reveal that formula. The smaller dimension (such as 4.5 feet) is defined as "the green part the short way". That means the playing surface plus two inches on each side for the green part of the rail. For a 4.5-foot table, that's 54 inches total (4*12+12/2) and when you subtract four inches for the cushions you get 50 inches nose-to-nose the short way. The long way is twice the short way, nose-to-nose, on all tables but snooker tables.
I'll leave it to the clever student to figure out how large a "4x8" table should be, nose-to-nose. A 5x10 foot table is 60-4 inches the short way and 112 inches the long way.
As for the OP, the table-in-the-corner trick works for some people but I'd hate it. I have better uses for a room that large.
As for the on-line guidelines from manufacturers about needed room, just remember that those guides are tools to sell the largest possible table to recreational players and are not designed to make serious players happy with their situation. But most serious players already know how much room they're comfortable with, even if they don't know the exact number of feet.
Have you Google this subject? There are countless hits that will give you the answer.
True, but see my post just above. Many people will not be happy if they follow some of the on-line answers.
Simple answer: if you don't have much furniture around the table, add five feet on each side of the green. A 4.5x9 has 4.5 feet of green plus ten feet gives a minimum of 14.5 feet the short way and 18'8" the long way.
So, I can fit a nine footer up into the corner of my room. I will have about about 4 to 5 feet on the two remaining playable sides of the table. This is my least costly alternative that will enable me to practice on a regular basis and stay in stroke. I believe that a great deal can be achieved with this set up. Don't you think?
