opinions on cue components when I get my custom made?

scottycoyote

scottycoyote

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
in the next year or so Im going to finally nail down a cue builder and get a cue made. Ive always like something more balabushka like, a fancy version of a sneaky pete. So far ive decided I want a full splice blank, and I want something longer than standard since im tall, probably 60 to 62 inch range.

Now, I love the look of an ivory joint, but this cue is all about playability. Im going to get this thing made to my liking and hopefully shoot with it forever. As far as playability and hit, is ivory as good as say a steel joint, or phenolic.....or should i go for wood on wood. Also what kind of pin? I prefer something piloted, but is that best.........what about g10? I was thinking ivory or ivorine ferrules, and a leather wrap. Some points of course with the full splice but not alot of fancy work.

Who would you get to build something like this? So many great cuemakers, and so many opinions. I want somebody who can put some magic into the hit. I was hoping to spend no more than say 700, $1000 at the very most and then id be looking for some fancy stuff on it too.
 
if you want to go for broke,,,,try getting your hands on a brunswick titleist butt first. every cue i've played with with that butt has played great!!!

the difference between a phenolic, SS, and ivory will be MAINLY in the feel(feedback).

the harder the material, the harder the hit(ss is the hardest of the three, ivory is the liveliest, imo). phenolic is the dullest hit but probably the one you've experienced the most.

a compromise of the full ivory flatface would be an ivory COLLAR. less hard than a full ivory + you get the feel of the wood to wood.

whatever pin you get, tell the cuemaker to give you a snug fit(if it's a 3/8 ten that you want). radial pin is already snug.

ivory, ivorine is a matter of taste and feel. i hate the ivorine, but ivory is harder and thus more deflection.

as for who to do it,,,,,,technology has created an equal playing field, but go with someone with years of experience and credibility. that way you won't get shortchanged on integrity of materials.

playability is also a matter of feel and taste. i prefer flatface for playability because there's better OVERALL strength IN THE MIDDLE(whereas the piloted is stronger AT THE PIN). if you want a hard hitting cue, make all it components hard(including a hard bumper). soften where you want it softer.

i have cues of various specs. my lighter cues(18oz) have a harder hit because their lack of weight requires hardness to drive the cb.
for me, heavy cue + hard hit is too much for me to handle. therefore my heavy cue has a phenolic flatface, soft ferrule, medium tip.

i just had mike webb redo(ferrule, tip, new joint material, re-wrap, refinish) on a valuable cue. not only did a great job, but did it in the amount of time promised.
 
scottycoyote said:
So many great cuemakers, and so many opinions. I want somebody who can put some magic into the hit. I was hoping to spend no more than say 700, $1000 at the very most and then id be looking for some fancy stuff on it too.
Click to expand...
I may be wrong, but your insistence on a full splice blank may cut down your choices, drastically. I believe there are only a handfull of cue makers using the full spice. Probably the best known, Joel Hercek, has a waiting list of many years. However, Mark Bear also offers a full splice and his waiting list may be a little shorter.
 
Since you are looking for a full splice cue and there aren't that many cue makers out there that build full splice cues. I suggest you locate a cue maker or parts maker and have them build you the full splice blank to your specifications, (ie. ebony, curly maple, birdseye maple, bacote, bubinga, cocabola, etc.) Then send that full splice to a cue maker of your choice to do the inlays, wrap, joint, butt cap, shaft, etc. You could even purchase 314 or Z shaft blanks by Predator and have them custom fit to your cue. It seems like you have time to get this cue completed, might as well take the time to get the exact parts you want this cue made of.

JMO,
Zim
 
thanks for the info and advice guys

i didnt realise the full splice would be an issue. Do you guys think the full splice is worth the trouble? it must not be too important if not many cuemakers dont do it anymore. I realise its all about what i want, but I just want to make sure i dont have something as a priority that doesnt really matter in the scheme of things.
 
scottycoyote said:
thanks for the info and advice guys

i didnt realise the full splice would be an issue. Do you guys think the full splice is worth the trouble? it must not be too important if not many cuemakers dont do it anymore. I realise its all about what i want, but I just want to make sure i dont have something as a priority that doesnt really matter in the scheme of things.
Click to expand...

From my understanding the full splice cues are more difficult and time consuming to produce and that's why a lot of makers have moved away from it. If you go to Joel Hercek's website (www.hercek.com) you will be able to read his and Burton Spain's opinions on the full splice and why it's better. That being said, in you're price range I would probably look at Andy Gilbert. He's on the lower end of your price range and builds a very nice half-spliced cue. On the upper range you could look at Skip Weston who does some of the best half-spliced points in the business.
 
If you really want a full splice cue, I agree with Bruin 70. Buy a one piece full splice Titlist (Willie Hoppe or whatever), that is not warped through the points, handle section to the center of the cue. Look for nicely colored veneers that are not separated. You should be able to pick up a useable one for $200 - $300.

This example is a little high because the decal is pretty good - you don't need a decal:

Titlist Auction

You should be able to get a cuemaker to make you a shaft, joint, etc. to your specs within budget. If you like crisp play and feel, and durability, buckhorn would be my first choice. I also like ivory, but it's not as strong.

I would forget the ivorine.

Chris
 
scottycoyote said:
thanks for the info and advice guys

i didnt realise the full splice would be an issue. Do you guys think the full splice is worth the trouble? it must not be too important if not many cuemakers dont do it anymore. I realise its all about what i want, but I just want to make sure i dont have something as a priority that doesnt really matter in the scheme of things.
Click to expand...

it's worth it if you can get a titleist butt
 
TATE said:
If you really want a full splice cue, I agree with Bruin 70. Buy a one piece full splice Titlist (Willie Hoppe or whatever), that is not warped through the points, handle section to the center of the cue. Look for nicely colored veneers that are not separated. You should be able to pick up a useable one for $200 - $300.

This example is a little high because the decal is pretty good - you don't need a decal:

Titlist Auction

You should be able to get a cuemaker to make you a shaft, joint, etc. to your specs within budget. If you like crisp play and feel, and durability, buckhorn would be my first choice. I also like ivory, but it's not as strong.

I would forget the ivorine.

Chris
Click to expand...


the nice thing about buckhorn is that it's not as susceptable to weather extremes(cold) like ivory. i THINK they use buckhorn quite a bit in billiard cues.
 
scottycoyote said:
in the next year or so Im going to finally nail down a cue builder and get a cue made. Ive always like something more balabushka like, a fancy version of a sneaky pete. So far ive decided I want a full splice blank, and I want something longer than standard since im tall, probably 60 to 62 inch range.

Now, I love the look of an ivory joint, but this cue is all about playability. Im going to get this thing made to my liking and hopefully shoot with it forever. As far as playability and hit, is ivory as good as say a steel joint, or phenolic.....or should i go for wood on wood. Also what kind of pin? I prefer something piloted, but is that best.........what about g10? I was thinking ivory or ivorine ferrules, and a leather wrap. Some points of course with the full splice but not alot of fancy work.

Who would you get to build something like this? So many great cuemakers, and so many opinions. I want somebody who can put some magic into the hit. I was hoping to spend no more than say 700, $1000 at the very most and then id be looking for some fancy stuff on it too.
Click to expand...

I build a good bit of full splice cues, but rarely do veneers unless I pick up an old Titlist or Spain type blanks. Below are a couple of cues that fall under your top price range. I don't feel like Ivory helps the hit and would go with Phenolic joint flat faced with 5/16 pin for a high action crisper hit.

http://www.hightowercues.com/index.php?page=cues4
Bottom of Page

http://www.hightowercues.com/index.php?page=cues5
Top of page.

We can build you an inlaid cue 60", full spiced for $800 to $1000. There are probably others on here that can beat that. I would also pick you out a piece of shaft wood with 20 or more growth lines per inch so it would not produce a whippy shaft being longer as it will be.

If you want veneers in a one piece butt, the old titlist style blanks are not all that nicely done veneers. The Spain blanks are great but if I built a cue using one of my Spain blanks it would be about $2000. I am just finishing one out of one of his older blanks and plan to price it for $2000 loaded with Ivory inlays, Ivory Joint and Ivory Butt plate engraved with:
Tribute to Burton Spain
2005 ICA Hall of Fame

I still have three more of his blanks and do not plan to build any cues less than $2000 with them.

Chris
www.hightowercues.com
 
scottycoyote said:
in the next year or so Im going to finally nail down a cue builder and get a cue made. Ive always like something more balabushka like, a fancy version of a sneaky pete. So far ive decided I want a full splice blank, and I want something longer than standard since im tall, probably 60 to 62 inch range.

Now, I love the look of an ivory joint, but this cue is all about playability. Im going to get this thing made to my liking and hopefully shoot with it forever. As far as playability and hit, is ivory as good as say a steel joint, or phenolic.....or should i go for wood on wood. Also what kind of pin? I prefer something piloted, but is that best.........what about g10? I was thinking ivory or ivorine ferrules, and a leather wrap. Some points of course with the full splice but not alot of fancy work.

Who would you get to build something like this? So many great cuemakers, and so many opinions. I want somebody who can put some magic into the hit. I was hoping to spend no more than say 700, $1000 at the very most and then id be looking for some fancy stuff on it too.
Click to expand...
keep researching and asking questions ..don't be afraid to spend more than anticipated as a custom cue will last a life time..there are alot of great cue builders out there..i would highly recommend Chris Hightower check out his site .......www.hightowercues.com .... he is from rural Georgia......signed a happy customer good luck
 
bruin70 said:
i just had mike webb redo(ferrule, tip, new joint material, re-wrap, refinish) on a valuable cue. not only did a great job, but did it in the amount of time promised.
Click to expand...


Doesn't he do great work!!!

His wraps are superb and everything is done on time... period.

"Quality is no accident"

Check out his website and talk to him. He will make a cue any way you want.

http://www.webbcues.com/index.html
 
scottycoyote said:
in the next year or so Im going to finally nail down a cue builder and get a cue made.
Click to expand...

Congratulations.

scottycoyote said:
Ive always like something more balabushka like, a fancy version of a sneaky pete. So far ive decided I want a full splice blank, and I want something longer than standard since im tall, probably 60 to 62 inch range.
Click to expand...

Sounds good so far.

scottycoyote said:
Now, I love the look of an ivory joint, but this cue is all about playability. Im going to get this thing made to my liking and hopefully shoot with it forever.As far as playability and hit, is ivory as good as say a steel joint, or phenolic
Click to expand...

I like ivory and stainless. The tip will change the hit more than the joint will so use what ever makes you happy.

scottycoyote said:
I prefer something piloted,
Click to expand...

Me too. I like 5/16-14 pins.

scottycoyote said:
I was thinking ivory or ivorine ferrules, and a leather wrap.
Click to expand...

Ivory without question. I hate dirty ferrules. Some say Ivor-x is good but I have not tried them. I also prefer a leather (lizard) wrap. Feels funny to shoot with anything else.

BTW it sounds like we have similar tastes in cues. Here are the ones I play with.

http://www.murraytucker.com/my_cues.htm

Good luck with your search.
 
murry i have to say ive never heard of you before, of course that doesnt mean much, but I love the look of your cues, youre right we do have similar tastes. ill be emailing you
 
Jensen cue makes the cue you want. Steel joint and ivory ferrule. Lot of pros use his cues. He likes to build plain basic good hitting cues along the Hoppe line. He will also make it to your length.
 
Sorry to jump in but since people keep mentioning Titlist and Hoppe cues, can someone recommend a way to figure out the value of a Hoppe cue? I know people seem to like them, but I don't really know much about them. I just got one as part of a billiard collection.

There's no sticker but the points look good. I'm looking for just a basic idea of the value (sorry, I don't have a photo)
 
Scottycoyote,

I'm from Baton Rouge so I'll second Mike Johnson at Jensen Custom Cues. :D
When I can afford an expensive cue and am playing at a level where I think I deserve one that's what I'll get.
Mikes website may also help you decide EXACTLY what you want in a cue (wood,inlay material,etc) even if you go with a different cuemaker...
http://www.jensencues.com
Prices start $500 with 25% down upfront.

Terry
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top