OTLB vs AZB forum mechanics

Bigkahuna said:
Well, just reading this now even on my must be 100 years old what ever it is table 2" cushion nose to finished surface and then 1.25" to center of diamond. So this seems very consistent. Learn something new everyday!

So can anybody tell me why the center of the diamond is 3.25 inches from the nose of the cushion? I am not going to tell you...... well, because I have no idea.:speechless:
Because when diamonds were first added to the tops of the rails to give a player a reference point to aim at while banking balls, the tops of the flat part of the rails were 2 1/2" across, so keeping the diamond centered, that put the diamond at 1 1/4" from the edge of the cloth and the edge of the finished surface of the rail before it curved downward. Since then, on modern day tables, it's just commonly accepted that the sights are 1 1/4" from the edge of the cloth tucked in with the feather strip.

Glen
 
Since words are not enough, here is a perfect joint, no filler, no super glue, no scraping and this was on a table that was set up twice before. Once at a pro tournament and once by my son. I told him he should have got it this way when he did it the first time but he is still learning. Also a pic of the table. This is a preview of what will be on my website next week. These pockets are tight at just 3 inches.
 
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OTLB said:
Since words are not enough, here is a perfect joint, no filler, no super glue, no scraping and this was on a table that was set up twice before. Once at a pro tournament and once by my son. I told him he should have got it this way when he did it the first time but he is still learning. Also a pic of the table. This is a preview of what will be on my website next week. These pockets are tight at just 3 inches.

Does that table have snooker cushions on it?
 
yes it does, if you email pics of your frame inside and out I will tell you why it is an OB table thanks John
 
OTLB said:
yes it does, if you email pics of your frame inside and out I will tell you why it is an OB table thanks John

No need. i will tell you. Brunswick did not notch the cross members like yours. Also the outside of the cabinet with the filler strip also. Rails have square sights turned diagonnaly.... should i go on... Bigkhahuna, it really doesnt matter what mnfr made this. it affects value 0!!! Enjoy your table
it looks great!!
 
OTLB said:
Since words are not enough, here is a perfect joint, no filler, no super glue, no scraping and this was on a table that was set up twice before. Once at a pro tournament and once by my son. I told him he should have got it this way when he did it the first time but he is still learning. Also a pic of the table. This is a preview of what will be on my website next week. These pockets are tight at just 3 inches.


I might be missing something but i see filler in those seems! It may have been from the last setup, but i see a bunch of little chips that were
ABSOLUTELY gonna have to be filled if it wasnt done last time. No
way were those slates gonna have no filler!!!
 
Yup...pretty easy to level a table with no filler when it's already been filled. Although I would still recommend scraping off any excess. Especially if the previous installer used wax like this one obviously did. Unless you also levelled it using no shims, wedges or screws, the slates will have moved against each other to acheive a flush level playing surface. That usually causes some of the wax to leave a ridge in the seam.

On a table like that, the seams usually do match back up pretty well, and you probably could get away with not using anything to reseal them, but when installing Simonis on the table I would recommend re-waxing to remove any imperfections caused by the installation. Otherwise just seems like a shortcut to me.
 
Yes there was filler in some small chips but the seams are tight to .002 and even. Such a small void isn't discernable by the ball when cloth is on it. NO shortcut in making them nice and even. It will play fine and I am not worried about it. Snooker tables are done this way all the time.
 
OTLB said:
Yes there was filler in some small chips but the seams are tight to .002 and even. Such a small void isn't discernable by the ball when cloth is on it. NO shortcut in making them nice and even. It will play fine and I am not worried about it. Snooker tables are done this way all the time.

So, If the table had never been seemed before and it had those chips.

Would you have seemed it??? just curious. Thanks
 
there are a couple that are large enough that I would have yes. Something to think about, when you have nothing in the seam and say maybe down the road it changes to where its noticeable, you can fix it without taking everything apart. Since nothing is going to pop up out of the seam all you would have to do is tweak it.
 
true, it does make them super easy to fix if there is some movement at a later date but if you glue the joints they will never move. I have a customer who puts a ladder on his table twice a year so he can change out the storm windows in the skylights in his ceiling. I told him I would fix them for free if they showed any movement, no word from him in 2 yrs.
 
mechanic/player said:
true, it does make them super easy to fix if there is some movement at a later date but if you glue the joints they will never move. I have a customer who puts a ladder on his table twice a year so he can change out the storm windows in the skylights in his ceiling. I told him I would fix them for free if they showed any movement, no word from him in 2 yrs.

Or his dumba$$ fell off the ladder.

I really don't get the point in not filling the seams, its really not that big of a deal. Oooeee you didn't fill the seams, I don't see the need to take whatever extra time you are to make sure you do not have to seam the slate.

Do a table from pool tables direct and don't seam the slate.
 
LOL! This is how the conversation went

Him: Hi, you set up my table a few months ago and I couldnt be happier with it and it rolls truer than it ever has since I owned it.

Me: But?

Him: I need to put a ladder on the table so that I can reach the skykights to change the storm windows twice a yr and I really dont want to buy a longer ladder and I think I can reach them with the 14 ft ( yes a 14 ft ladder on the pool table and him on it lol) ladder I already have. Do you think it will be ok?

Me: No, I do not recomend doing that. You could fall,you could tip the table,you could damage the slate joints.

Him: Ok, but do you think it will hold me.

Me: yes

Him: ok, well I am going to do it anyway. I will have my wife hold the ladder and make sure the table doesnt tip over.

Me: Ok, be careful and call me is the joints shift and I will fix them for free for you. Good luck.

So yes he either broke his neck or the joints are holding up.
 
what kind of table does he have? The fact that the slates are even, tight and level enough that you don't need filler is the point. Floating off high and low points is really the short cut. There are other methods to lock slate together besides glue. If a customer was going to do that I would want to use glue also as an added measure of protection.
 
OTLB said:
what kind of table does he have? The fact that the slates are even, tight and level enough that you don't need filler is the point. Floating off high and low points is really the short cut. There are other methods to lock slate together besides glue. If a customer was going to do that I would want to use glue also as an added measure of protection.

I think the point is slates are not perfect. It is more common to find a not
so perfect set of slate then it is. Its great to find that perfect set, we all have. As far as using the glue, you should assume the worst. Guy may not
tell you he is going to stand on it or move it, but guess what. He is gonna do just that.
 
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