OTLB vs AZB forum mechanics
- Thread starter Bigkahuna
- Start date
OTLB
Banned
Now I have answered another question, everybody keeps asking me questions. PM ing me and so on. Tell you what, you guys go back and answer the questions I asked in my previous posts and I will post the link on Youtube for you. I know you want to see it. Very interesting how they put cloth on also, no visible staples in the pockets and no glue. So no more phone calls, emails, pm ing and so on asking me how to do things.
Look forward to your answers.......
Look forward to your answers.......
9ft slate is 57 x 107 if it's the normal oversized slate.scottp said:
Years ago there use to be a tape that you could use to tape across the seams of the slates instead of using a filler. I tried it out, but didn't care for itOTLB said:
Glen
When asking questions of mechanic's, the questions should be at least as intelligent as the answers, don't you think? For example: How do you put a square peg in a round hole? Answer: Use a bigger hammer! Somehow I just don't see the relevance of that kind of line of questioning pertaining to this line of work in a usable mannerOTLB said:
Questions about the how to's and their answers should go hand in hand as a form of knowledge building that can be understood as a way of increasing one's abilities to do their job with at least a little better understanding as to what a person's doing, as to further improve their skills as a mechanic. Glen
Because you side-stepped answering my question, you also missed the importance of it's answer. Most don't know the answer, or the importance of it, as the answer has a lot to do with the design of the table, as well as the determination of the playing surface. Which means I can't ask you the part 2 of the question, if you can't answer part 1.OTLB said:
But, one thing is for sure, I'll answer the question if you don't know the answer, so that then everyone will know and learn from it.
Slatehumper, you're invited to answer as well
Glen
realkingcobra said:Because you side-stepped answering my question, you also missed the importance of it's answer. Most don't know the answer, or the importance of it, as the answer has a lot to do with the design of the table, as well as the determination of the playing surface. Which means I can't ask you the part 2 of the question, if you can't answer part 1.
But, one thing is for sure, I'll answer the question if you don't know the answer, so that then everyone will know and learn from it.
Slatehumper, you're invited to answer as well
Glen
I know the answer :grin:
answer
Well i admit it. I do not know the answer. I would guess it would be the playin surface.But that is what i like about Glen. There is no bullshit. When he says something, he means it. And 99% of the time we learn from it. That is what this forum is suppose to be about. Not some childish play school questions. OTLB, if you do not like being bothered with PM's and questions. Than prove what you say, or stop posting. SIMPLE AS THAT.
Ron
Well i admit it. I do not know the answer. I would guess it would be the playin surface.But that is what i like about Glen. There is no bullshit. When he says something, he means it. And 99% of the time we learn from it. That is what this forum is suppose to be about. Not some childish play school questions. OTLB, if you do not like being bothered with PM's and questions. Than prove what you say, or stop posting. SIMPLE AS THAT.
Ron
I don't know it for a fact, but I would have to guess that the measurement came from the OUTSIDE dimensions of the tables.
The only problem with that theory is that it doesn't leave the same difference on the sides as it does on the ends. (9ft length = 108"-100" playing surface = 8"; 4.5ft width = 54"-50" playing surface = 4").
I'm ready to be educated.
The only problem with that theory is that it doesn't leave the same difference on the sides as it does on the ends. (9ft length = 108"-100" playing surface = 8"; 4.5ft width = 54"-50" playing surface = 4").
I'm ready to be educated.
Shortly....just waiting on OTLB's answerClub Billiards said:
It has something to do with the mathematical design of all pool tables, doesn't matter if they're pool, billiards, or snooker. Glen
PS. And important enough that ALL mechanic's should know the answer to this question, and will soon!
What is the constant?
All 9 foot tables regardless of rail width slate size etc. have two constants one is the playing surface at 50x100 and the other is the diamonds. Measure the length of the table from the diamonds. You should come up with pretty close to 108 inches or 9 ft. On mine I had to measure diamonds from outside to outside. Now on the width measure from cushion edge on the far side to the outside of the diamond you should come up with 54 inches or 4.5 ft.
So, if this is how to measure a table I am not sure why the width would not be 58 to include both diamonds? Perhaps, it is something to do with half as wide as long? Include 8" for both diamonds on the length and half that or 4" for the width?????
This is a great question RKC I would really like to know....
All 9 foot tables regardless of rail width slate size etc. have two constants one is the playing surface at 50x100 and the other is the diamonds. Measure the length of the table from the diamonds. You should come up with pretty close to 108 inches or 9 ft. On mine I had to measure diamonds from outside to outside. Now on the width measure from cushion edge on the far side to the outside of the diamond you should come up with 54 inches or 4.5 ft.
So, if this is how to measure a table I am not sure why the width would not be 58 to include both diamonds? Perhaps, it is something to do with half as wide as long? Include 8" for both diamonds on the length and half that or 4" for the width?????
This is a great question RKC I would really like to know....
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Waiting on OTLB, if he don't answer by the end of today, about 5pm Indiana time, then I'll answer the question for everyoneBigkahuna said:
Glen
realkingcobra said:Waiting on OTLB, if he don't answer by the end of today, about 5pm Indiana time, then I'll answer the question for everyone
Glen
Glen,
Today I am reminded by what a great contributor you have been to this forum. I have been chasing my level and straight edge around my table all morning. I think I am just going to print off your instructions pull out all the shims and start all over again. I just am having a hard time with making an adjustment in one place and having that effect another and then get that right and then effecting another then go back and that has changed get that right then another change somwhere else now I go back and what was perfect is way off. OK you are probably laughing but every time I have done this it has taken forever. I guess I just have to sit down and go through the info you have put up. GRRRR! Just frustrated I am close to done and want to play pool. By the way it seems one of my slates is just a tad sway back which does not show real well with the 4 foot level but does when I use the machinist straight edge which is in fact shorter by quite a bit.
Answer to the question.
All pool tables are measured from feather strip to feather strip to determine it's size. Take a 9ft CG ft for example, from feather strip to feather strip, and I'm talking about at the finished surface side of the feather strip, measure it from side to side and you'll find it's 4 1/2 feet across. Now take that 54" and subtract the width of the cushions which are 2" each side, that leaves 50", there's the width of the playing surface. Now, double that width being 54" x 2= 108" but keep in mind when you're doubling it, you're also doubling the cushions, which means you're counting 4 cushions on the end rails, so you have to take the 108" and first subtract the 2 ghost rails being 4" wide, which leaves 104", then subtract the cushions at both ends of the table which are both 2" wide, now you end up with 100" for the playing surface end to end.
So, all tables are measured in size to include all the area of cloth, including the cushions, minus the ghost cushions, subtract the width of the cushions, equals the playing surface.
What this measurement does, is determines where the feather strip dado is going to be.
Example: Brunswick Super Speed cushions are 1 3/16" across from the nose to the sub-rail, plus 5/16" width of dado. 2" minus 1 3/16" cushion leaves 13/16", minus 5/16" width of dado = 1/2" inch of sub-rail wood needed between the cushion and inside edge of the feather strip dado in order to maintain a 2" cushion which will net a playing surface of 50"x100"
If replacing the Brunswick cushions with K55 cushions, the K55 cushions are 1 1/4" nose to back, which means they're 1/16" wider than the cushions being replaced, so that means the cushion surface will then be 2 1/6" across, shrinking the playing surface 1/16" x 2= 1/8" inch, playing surface will then be 49 7/8" x 99 7/8" no longer twice as long as it is wide. In order to maintain the twice as long as it is wide measurement, you would have to add a 1/16" inch thick spacer to the bevel surface on both end rails in order to build them out 1/16" more which would shrink the playing surface end to end by another 1/8" of an inch making the length of the table now 99 3/4" because 49 7/8" x 2 = 99 3/4"
If using K66 cushions, they're 1 1/8" nose to back, so the playing surface grows by 1/16" x 2 = 50 1/8" x 100 1/8" again out of proportion, so you'd have to remove 1/16" of an inch of wood from both end sub-rails in order to increase the playing length of the table to 100 1/4"
One other thing you might not of thought of is the placement of the diamonds. That placement is determined by the edge of the feather strip dado, being exactly 2" from the playing surface and proportionate as well. The center of the diamond should be 1 1/4" from the edge of the dado.
Now, to sum it all up, a 4' x 8' table is 48" wide minus 4" of cushion width x 96" minus 4" of ghost cushions, minus 4" of cushion width, netting 44" x 88" playing surface
Glen
PS. You'd be surprised today at how many table manufactures don't pay attention to the proportions of the rails on the tables they build!
All pool tables are measured from feather strip to feather strip to determine it's size. Take a 9ft CG ft for example, from feather strip to feather strip, and I'm talking about at the finished surface side of the feather strip, measure it from side to side and you'll find it's 4 1/2 feet across. Now take that 54" and subtract the width of the cushions which are 2" each side, that leaves 50", there's the width of the playing surface. Now, double that width being 54" x 2= 108" but keep in mind when you're doubling it, you're also doubling the cushions, which means you're counting 4 cushions on the end rails, so you have to take the 108" and first subtract the 2 ghost rails being 4" wide, which leaves 104", then subtract the cushions at both ends of the table which are both 2" wide, now you end up with 100" for the playing surface end to end.
So, all tables are measured in size to include all the area of cloth, including the cushions, minus the ghost cushions, subtract the width of the cushions, equals the playing surface.
What this measurement does, is determines where the feather strip dado is going to be.
Example: Brunswick Super Speed cushions are 1 3/16" across from the nose to the sub-rail, plus 5/16" width of dado. 2" minus 1 3/16" cushion leaves 13/16", minus 5/16" width of dado = 1/2" inch of sub-rail wood needed between the cushion and inside edge of the feather strip dado in order to maintain a 2" cushion which will net a playing surface of 50"x100"
If replacing the Brunswick cushions with K55 cushions, the K55 cushions are 1 1/4" nose to back, which means they're 1/16" wider than the cushions being replaced, so that means the cushion surface will then be 2 1/6" across, shrinking the playing surface 1/16" x 2= 1/8" inch, playing surface will then be 49 7/8" x 99 7/8" no longer twice as long as it is wide. In order to maintain the twice as long as it is wide measurement, you would have to add a 1/16" inch thick spacer to the bevel surface on both end rails in order to build them out 1/16" more which would shrink the playing surface end to end by another 1/8" of an inch making the length of the table now 99 3/4" because 49 7/8" x 2 = 99 3/4"
If using K66 cushions, they're 1 1/8" nose to back, so the playing surface grows by 1/16" x 2 = 50 1/8" x 100 1/8" again out of proportion, so you'd have to remove 1/16" of an inch of wood from both end sub-rails in order to increase the playing length of the table to 100 1/4"
One other thing you might not of thought of is the placement of the diamonds. That placement is determined by the edge of the feather strip dado, being exactly 2" from the playing surface and proportionate as well. The center of the diamond should be 1 1/4" from the edge of the dado.
Now, to sum it all up, a 4' x 8' table is 48" wide minus 4" of cushion width x 96" minus 4" of ghost cushions, minus 4" of cushion width, netting 44" x 88" playing surface
Glen
PS. You'd be surprised today at how many table manufactures don't pay attention to the proportions of the rails on the tables they build!
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Well, just reading this now even on my must be 100 years old what ever it is table 2" cushion nose to finished surface and then 1.25" to center of diamond. So this seems very consistent. Learn something new everyday!
So can anybody tell me why the center of the diamond is 3.25 inches from the nose of the cushion? I am not going to tell you...... well, because I have no idea.:speechless:
So can anybody tell me why the center of the diamond is 3.25 inches from the nose of the cushion? I am not going to tell you...... well, because I have no idea.:speechless: