Pantograph Help

BigDon

DESi Customs
Silver Member
Hey guys, I am looking at building a pano. I have not really used one much, so any help would be great. I had read something about having to increase the stylus size by the amount of the reduction from your cutting bit or something like that? I was also curious as to about how long of arms you would need to do long forearm inlays? Not cutting V points but more like pattern type points or split points with design inlay. Maybe a 1:1 copier would be better of a pattern for the points? I am still interested in a panto for smaller inlay if anyone can help.


Thanks a bunch!!!
 

pdcue

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hey guys, I am looking at building a pano. I have not really used one much, so any help would be great. I had read something about having to increase the stylus size by the amount of the reduction from your cutting bit or something like that? I was also curious as to about how long of arms you would need to do long forearm inlays? Not cutting V points but more like pattern type points or split points with design inlay. Maybe a 1:1 copier would be better of a pattern for the points? I am still interested in a panto for smaller inlay if anyone can help.


Thanks a bunch!!!

The wonders of Google - "DIY pantograph" - 48,700 in14 serconds.

"DIY Router Pantograph" 136,000 hits - priceless.

Should give everything you need and more.

Dale
 

BigDon

DESi Customs
Silver Member
Well Thanks Dale, I guess we don't need a forum anymore since we can Google everything!!! I think I did say that I had done some reading but I still had questions. Not sure why people feel the need to come on here with stupid answers to peoples questions. I was asking cue specific questions, just not about a pantograph in general. If your not here to contribute then why are you here?
 

RBC

Deceased
Bigdon

I've used a couple of pantograph's, but it's been years.

If my memory serves me correctly, you reduce the stylus size by 4 times the cutter size if you're on a 2-1 panto.

Keep in mind that the radius in your patterns must match the size of the larger stylus.

I've never made one, so can't help you there.

I have made several CNC machines for tapering and for inlays, and I would be doing you wrong if I didn't tell you that you'd be better off building a CNC machine.

The panto may be cheaper to build, but is much less versatile and will cost much more very quickly. Just the cost of patterns will put you way past the cost of a CNC machine pretty fast. And the CNC can taper butts and shafts, make inlay pockets and parts, cut slots for rings, but the parts to fit the slots, and on and on.

If the panto is the way you want to go, I understand.

Good luck and good cue building.

Royce
 

BigDon

DESi Customs
Silver Member
Hey Royce, thanks for the response. I have always wanted a cnc and could swing the money over a short time but my hold back has always been the code and software. I have taught myself to build computers, websites, cue repair and about anything else I have put my mind to. Maybe this will be the next challenge ;-) Your right, I should prob get with the times instead of backing up.
 

macguy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hey Royce, thanks for the response. I have always wanted a cnc and could swing the money over a short time but my hold back has always been the code and software. I have taught myself to build computers, websites, cue repair and about anything else I have put my mind to. Maybe this will be the next challenge ;-) Your right, I should prob get with the times instead of backing up.
You don't really need to build one they are around. I have an old Gorton P-12
I picked up for $500.00 This machine before CNC came around. It cost new $18,000. Also, if I wanted it can be converted to CNC I can for around $2000. My point is, they are laying around collecting dust in the back of sign shops and trophy and engraving places. If you are lucky to find one it will cost you very little.
Here is a picture off the net what my machine looks like.
http://i42.tinypic.com/2cctg2b.jpg
 
Last edited:

pdcue

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Well Thanks Dale, I guess we don't need a forum anymore since we can Google everything!!! I think I did say that I had done some reading but I still had questions. Not sure why people feel the need to come on here with stupid answers to peoples questions. I was asking cue specific questions, just not about a pantograph in general. If your not here to contribute then why are you here?

FWIW I am not here to help the hopeless.

If you lack the ambition to learn enough to ask specific questions, you are a waste of bandwidth.

Dale
 
Last edited:

jschelin99

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I applaud your interest to make a pantograph, and I completely understand what it's like not having the money to buy a ready-built machine. But, I just think you'll run into so many problems building a machine from scratch that it might end up being a waste of time and precious money. Obviously, you must have significant mechanical skills if you're even thinking about doing this, so I'm not questioning your ability. If you decide to go forward with it, I wish you the best of luck.

On the other hand, I would highly recommend saving the money to purchase a ready-built CNC mill. If you're able to build computers and program websites, you'd easily figure out CNC milling.
 

venison-slayer

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
pantograph

Hey BigDon if jeff can program one, it should be a breeze for you.

(just kidding jeff you are very good at it)
 

jschelin99

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
No offense taken, Brent. It truly highlights my position. If I can do it, ANYONE can do it!
 

Cue Crazy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Coming from someone that has made his own working pantograph, I can tell ya that you can still end up with quite a bit of money tied Up in It, not to mention the time to get It working correctly.

If You feel the need to go that route first instead of jumping straight into cnc, then maybe a 1 to 1 machine would be a better choice. More intricate designs would be much harder on a 1 to 1 ratio, but you could do simple inlays, and The reason I say that is that If you make It using machine slides, then You could retrofit It later with ball screws and steppers to upgrade It to cnc in the future.

With My machine I have found that with each pattern I make, It can require the use of different size styluses, and endmills in some cases. I try to keep a log of that stuff for each pattern. Much of It has to do with sharpness, roundness or sizing of the inlays, but I have made several different size styluses for different patterns. It is often a struggle to get a good working pattern, so you want to log that stuff down in a journal or something.

With that said I would much rather be using a cnc for inlays, and If you have the funds to jump right in, then I believe the effort would be better served rather then dealing with a manual machine.
 

BigDon

DESi Customs
Silver Member
Hey Brent, Jeff and Greg! Thanks, I actually did not know it but I found out that I know someone that has a 4x8 cnc at his house. He uses it for plywood and plastic but he said he could help me out with running one and the code. I appreciate your guys time to answer. I think with what you guys have been saying, I will just scrap the panto project and look at the cnc machine.

Thanks again!
 

rhncue

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hey Royce, thanks for the response. I have always wanted a cnc and could swing the money over a short time but my hold back has always been the code and software. I have taught myself to build computers, websites, cue repair and about anything else I have put my mind to. Maybe this will be the next challenge ;-) Your right, I should prob get with the times instead of backing up.

Why worry about codes? Over the years Cad/Cam programs have developed to where you just have to hit "go" and in a matter of seconds the code is programmed and ready to use. Pantomills are cheap going in but become so costly afterwards.

Dick
 

BigDon

DESi Customs
Silver Member
Thanks Dick, any programs you suggest looking at? The CNC part of cue building can be a bit confusing or maybe I have read so much I am confusing myself :confused:
 

jschelin99

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I use BobCAD, but I'm sure there are many more CAD/CAM programs that will get the job done. CAD/CAM is the only way to go. You draw your design, hit a button, and the computer creates the code. Load the code in your CNC controlling software, and go. Yeah, there's a ton more to it than that, but those are the basics. You'll be cutting inlays and pockets in no time. I'm no expert, but I'd be happy to give a fellow cue maker some help.
 

Naked Cues

Wood Hoarder
Silver Member
BigDon,

If you ever get it up and running, let me know...I'd love to engrave some JP's with my logo. I'm located south of Louisburg...pretty much Zebulon.

Thanks,
Jason.
 

cuejo

Cue Repair tech
Silver Member
I have the unique inlay machine.
It's basically a 2:1 panto.
Works great, easy to use and inlays are tight
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1349144291.129897.jpg
 

BigDon

DESi Customs
Silver Member
Jason, I will let you know. You know how it goes, time to work on it now and then it gets set back for a while.

Darcy, I must say....those look good!
 

cuejo

Cue Repair tech
Silver Member
Jason, I will let you know. You know how it goes, time to work on it now and then it gets set back for a while.

Darcy, I must say....those look good!

Thanks Don,
I'm happy with how they turned out.
 
Top