Pat Fleming invented a tubular weight that slipped onto the shaft to keep the front of the cue down on shots like that and elevated shots. It may still be available. It's been discussed here with pictures recently.
physical consequences of cue balance point location
- Thread starter evergruven
- Start date
One key tip for taking rail shots is to apply FIRM downward pressure with your bridge hand on the rail. Remember, it's important to use your hand, not your arm or shoulder, to prevent strain or injury. Additionally, aim to maintain the same stance and overall feel as you would for a regular shot from the table bed. Give it a try!
I was not talking about the bridge being solid.....Personally.....I like to think of keeping the bridge "solid" which naturally will guide you torward keeping a slightly firm pressure without any un-neccessary over use of the muscles....
What I was referring to was open bridge shooting off the rail...to only the top of the CB....downward bridge hand pressure is not going to keep the tip on the CB.
Yes...I know about shortening the bridge length and overall stroke when shooting off the rail for more accuracy to center CB strike......
I was really just referring to how a butt heavy cue and/or light shaft having a feel of deflecting up off a CB when hitting top......vs.....a heavier shaft or more forward weighted cue seems to not have that and feels like it drives through the CB a bit better....(at least to me)
Perhaps there is a Dr. Dave experiment in there somewhere to measure tip deflection amout and effect from off the rail shots between the two cue types.... and a measured definition of when a cue is considered rear weighted vs forward weighted as right now I think that definition is very subjective to the holder of the cue.
Balance does play a role (I think) in how light vs heavy a cue feels in hand.
I am sure I can't be the only one that has whot with two cues and felt like one was lighter than the other only to find out when measured it was actually heavier....(who knows perhaps I am)
Very interesting question, and I'm curious if there's anyone who can describe a good experience.
From my personal experience I want to add that it is relevant to consider also abolute weights, not only balance points. From my personl point of view / my personal senses, cues feel very different while stroking, and having two cues with same entire balance point does nothing mean about playability or performance of a cue. Diving deeply into this topic one quickly understands that weights and balance points for all three "units" - shaft, butt, entire cue - have to be considered and analysed if you want to find out good answers to the original question.
But still if you have 2 different cues that have exactly same "unit"-weights and -balance points, even if cues are exactly same in these 3 main "units", they will probably feel different with different performance. If you include also the taper + diameters of the shaft and butt aditionally, the chance is much higher that you will endup in cues that might behave very similar.
But let's have a look at one of the common cases: Changing the weight of a butt by adding or changing weight bolts, and nothing more: All cues that I owed so far had their unique setting that meet my personal expectations at a relative maximum, which means that I can feel comfortable in principle with each cue by find the rigth weight setting of the butt. But this only affects the feeling - if I feel good while stroking, or if there's anything is not feeling the right way. Over all years of playing different cues and shafts, I feel mostly comfortable if the cue is not too heavy. Having a cue below 20 oz and the right weight setting allows me to use my wrist in a way that I feel very well. As heavier a cue was in the past, as less comfortable I felt regarding the wrist action, and I never had a cue over 20 oz where I felt good, but there were much much more cues below 20 oz, within a total rang of 18-20 oz that were OK to me. My actual 2 playing cues (2 butts and 2 shafts for each) feel in all 4 variations perfect to me, and the entire weight is between 551 and 557 gr. (which is only a difference of 0,2 oz), all 4 variations have the same entire balance point, but if you compare the shafts' and butt's weights and balance points the differences are bigger. Some of the shafts have added weight at the joint-area of the shaft which also strongly affects the balance point of the shaft.
The final pure feeling that expresses in "hit" and sound" of the cue while stroking and also the overall performance of a cue is also strongly depending on contruction and material details. Which means finally to me, that if balance points and weights are the same, it is not sure that you will like all there cues although they show same specs for weights and balance points. Coming back to my introduction sentence, I'm very curious if anyone can share specific information and experience and how deep this information will be.
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It's just equipment...
I play with a relatively light cue (16.91). The balance point on my cue is always 18.5". My goal is to not change many things regarding my equipment setup (which is hard to do when bombarded with people wanting to sell you new stuff). I believe this results in more confidence in my stroke and ultimately better results.
I play with a relatively light cue (16.91). The balance point on my cue is always 18.5". My goal is to not change many things regarding my equipment setup (which is hard to do when bombarded with people wanting to sell you new stuff). I believe this results in more confidence in my stroke and ultimately better results.
Zerksies
Well-known member
Where people hold the cue is based off the balance point. If the balance point is a bit forward or backwards then needed it effects possibly the bridge length. Too long or short of a bridge effects your timing, Possibly shaft dip causing a miss hit on the ball resulting in a missed shot. But alot of this can just be poor fundimentials
I’ve never known or cared where my cue’s balance point is. If I try another cue, its balance point is irrelevant too. I don’t notice or care.
pj
chgo
pj
chgo
Thank you.
Applying downward bridge hand pressure and maintaining a similar stance in rail play as in regular play will enhance your delivery (which will help keep the tip on the cue ball better). I encourage you to try it.
this is why I like a forward-balanced cue, as well as a heavier shaft than is typical
in general, but especially in your scenario, the cue stays down in my bridge better
I've said this before, but it's not just where the bp is- it's where the cue weight lives
off the rail, the heavier shaft comes into play more cos I might choke up on the cue
The Counter-Weight
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I haven't used pat's counter-weight, but I've improvised the idea, and it works for what we're discussing
adding temporary weight to different cue parts is also a great way to learn what cue dimensions one likes
Speaking of shooting off the rail, I wonder if it can produce "invisible multiple hits" like Dr. Dave demonstrates when shooting over a ball:
I suppose it depends on the cue elevation...?
pj
chgo
I suppose it depends on the cue elevation...?
pj
chgo
I have a strong preference for forward-balanced cues. Rear-balanced cues feel very unnatural to me.
I feel kinda lucky that I don’t know what you’re talking about. One less thing to throw me off.
Hope I’m not missing something important.
pj
chgo
Back weighted cues seem to be a preference of rotation players. They seem to help keep the cue steady in making the big shots. I felt the difference when I first started playing with one. I eventually found my ideal balance point slightly behind the average balance point, with a little more back weight but not excessive.