Pics of my new Brunswick Centennial table in Austin

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Damn!
You might have the best playing table in the world!
Congrats!
 
Wow, nice score. I don't know how this got by me, I must have been snoozing when it came up for sale. I did pick up an Anniversary with rosewood rails and the original red pockets from a retired dentist. He had the table for about 40 years. When I disassembled it, there was only evidence of two recovery jobs since WW2. Wiped it down with boiled linseed oil and it was like it just came off the showroom. Needless to say, it only took 2 hours to sell the thing. Congrats.
 
Quick question: re Lapping stone:

(btw..the clamps look perfect for wrestling that piece of rock)

Were you able to rent that, or have to purchase it?

Do/did you pull it or both push and pull?

Did the sand paper load up quickly?

Did you lightly spray a primer, then re-surface with the stone, removing high spots and identifying any low spots?

How's your back doing?:eek::eek:

I purchased the stone locally from Woodcraft in Austin, about $90. It's 12x18" and 3" thick. I think there are Woodcraft stores nationwide. Here's the one I bought: http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/153108/Granite-Surface-Plate-12-x-18-x-3-A-Grade.aspx.

I both pushed and pulled it, the short way across. At Mark Gregory's recommendation, I did the bulk of the work while slates were apart, then did some again on the seams areas once they were glued and bondo'd together.

The sand paper loaded up after about 15 back-and-forth passes (one "set" for me, after which I was winded and required a short break). I'd lift it up on its side and vacuum off the slate and the caked-up dust. Each piece of sandpaper lasted for maybe 6-8 sets, after which it wouldn't cut as fast. I glued them on with 3M adhesive spray (the less the better to ease removal).

I'm 6'3" so that made it possible to get the full width and go over the edges a bit from one side, pushing and pulling. It's definitely easier with two people, one on each side, especially if you're shorter. When the sandpaper is fresh, it's quite a bit of effort to move the stone. If you don't want to buy the 12" vice clamps for handles ($25 ea at Home Depot), you can use a ratchet strap around the stone, which can be grabbed by someone on either side.

I didn't need to spray anything on the slates to see low spots. As you work, the slate turns a lighter gray where the stone is hitting, and the low spots remain darker. You can also easily feel the progress with your fingers, as the sanded areas are smooth as silk while the low spots remain rough.

My back was a little sore for a day... felt like I'd rowed a boat for 20 miles or so. And a pair of shorts and tennis shoes were trashed from all the slate dust landing on them.
 
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Table

Awesome table!!! Great choice.
Looks you you had a good installer.

Very nice job on the rails mark.





Rob.M
 
Just beautiful.

I just setup an Anniversary DC this weekend after stripping, staining and refinishing all the wood and buffing all the metal. It was about 60 hours of work. The table is more solid than the Gold Crown 1 I removed and replaced with the Anniversary.

My slate had two 2 inch bands of darker slate and a third that was perhaps 5 inches wide. These all run lengthwise, like yours, through all 3 slates. A portion of the head rail slate is slightly raised in the 5 inch wide band,, over maybe half a foot midway down the 3rd slate.Its almost imperceptible. On the slowest rolled balls shot towards the head rail, it can move the ball off a minute amount, just in a tiny band, maybe a 3 inch wide area. . When the cloth slows a bit I doubt it will even show. I never heard the lapping stone idea. Might try it someday, if the rollout persists.

These tables are the best built design Brunswick ever made, both in playability and visual appeal. Enjoy it, she's a beauty.
 
That table is a treasure! They are still trying to make tables today that play that good. It's heavier than a Gold Crown or a Diamond with inch and quarter slate and very heavy wood construction (mahogany rails!). For me the Anniversary and the Centennial are still the gold standard of pool tables.
Real Kimg Cobra told me each of the 3 pieces of slate on my GC4 weighed 209 pounds. If the Anniversaries and Centennials both contain 1/2" more slate, I'll venture to say that along with being handsome and playing well, weathercasters should start advising those who own one to get under it during tornado warnings!
 
That is a really nice table! I'd much rather have a classic table like that redone to modern specs than a brand new table. Kind of like a Singer 911 or a restomod classic:)
 
A beautiful, beautiful, table, and the setting is stunning. I don't think I would let anyone play on it except maybe a lovely woman with ta-Ta's til' Tuesday, and legs down to here. :smile:
 
Really beautiful table!! That's a table you can be very proud of.
I just had Mark do a set of Anniversary rails for me. His craftsmanship is top notch! I still have quite a bit of finishing on mine, but am excited to get it done and playing.
 
Just beautiful.

I just setup an Anniversary DC this weekend after stripping, staining and refinishing all the wood and buffing all the metal. It was about 60 hours of work. The table is more solid than the Gold Crown 1 I removed and replaced with the Anniversary.

My slate had two 2 inch bands of darker slate and a third that was perhaps 5 inches wide. These all run lengthwise, like yours, through all 3 slates. A portion of the head rail slate is slightly raised in the 5 inch wide band,, over maybe half a foot midway down the 3rd slate.Its almost imperceptible. On the slowest rolled balls shot towards the head rail, it can move the ball off a minute amount, just in a tiny band, maybe a 3 inch wide area. . When the cloth slows a bit I doubt it will even show. I never heard the lapping stone idea. Might try it someday, if the rollout persists.

These tables are the best built design Brunswick ever made, both in playability and visual appeal. Enjoy it, she's a beauty.

The Centennial, Anniversary, GC1, 2 and 3 all share the same slate frame, so the strength of the tables are the same, one is not more solid than another.
 
Real Kimg Cobra told me each of the 3 pieces of slate on my GC4 weighed 209 pounds. If the Anniversaries and Centennials both contain 1/2" more slate, I'll venture to say that along with being handsome and playing well, weathercasters should start advising those who own one to get under it during tornado warnings!

The playing surface on all the tables I just listed are either 1" or 1 1/16th, and are most all made from brunstone and not real slate. Slate inch per inch weighs more than brunstone.
 
That table is a treasure! They are still trying to make tables today that play that good. It's heavier than a Gold Crown or a Diamond with inch and quarter slate and very heavy wood construction (mahogany rails!). For me the Anniversary and the Centennial are still the gold standard of pool tables.

The Diamond Professional with 30 mm slate has it beat by about 200lbs.
 
Yeah, I really liked my Diamond Pro blue label. Decided to sell it instead of risk moving it from CA to TX a few months ago.

I've always wanted a Centennial, and finally found one and the timing was right. Might have gone for another new Diamond, but now can only get them in black as far as I know.

They're both great tables, but the Cent just has more, well, character for lack of a better word, and I can see keeping it in the family forever and passing it on to my son someday.

The person who bought your Diamond was very happy with it, but man what a job that was, there was no parking near his house. I told you Mark would do a great job on the rails, he's the best in the business, no one can refinish rails like Mark can, as a matter of fact, he also has the ability to build them exact same rails brand new if anyone is interested, not rebuilt, but brand new. Those dark lines in the playing surface of the brunstone on your table are cause by spacer boards placed between the pieces to allow for drying after machining them flat, but the air don't get under the spacer boards so that area don't shrink up like the rest of the playing surface does, leaving a ridge behind when the pieces are ready to be used.
 
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