Pictures of hackwork section!

Josh,
I have to pick up an Acme Billiard Supply 10' billiard table in the next few days. This may work, I will let you know what I see and see if we can make something happen. From what I have heard they are GC knockoffs.
 
Got another one yesterday...

The good thing is, the whole room is Ohio State themed, so we're going to two-tone the table and will get the chance to trim in the pockets two-toned as well. I'll get pictures of that for sure, since that had been mentioned in a previous thread. Return trip is scheduled right before SBE so I'll try to have pics up before we head that way.

As promised, I got some pictures of the two-toned pocket work. I actually like this look and will probably do this on all two-tone tables from now on. It really fit in the room.

So check it out:

OSUWall.jpg


OSURoom.jpg


Cuffson.jpg


Sidecuff2.jpg


Cornercuff2.jpg


Cornerdone1.jpg


SideDone2.jpg


So what do you guys think?
 
those colors are probably not the best for this question

black and orange would look better IMO but I'm sure it looks better in person
 
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those colors are probably not the best for this question

black and orange would look better IMO but I'm sure it looks better in person

We've done some black and orange. There are a few Bengals fans around here, and plenty of Harley fans. LOL
 
Here is some railwork that Oscar and I ran into the other day.
 

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Factory hack

Hey guys. Here's another one from the apparent hackwork capital of the Midwest. LOL I posted this one in the Before/After section in the Main Category...

Apparently, the guy that called me bought the table from a friend who was unhappy with it since day 1. He bought it new and had it set up by the store that sold it. He said the pockets were too tight and he couldn't even play on it, so he sold it to the guy who called me. According to him, the pockets from the factory were 3-3/4" in the corners and almost 6" in the sides! Anyway, my guy had it set up by a local hackjob who attempted to "fix" the table by replacing the rubber and correcting the bad factory cuts by trimming the rubber back shorter than the length of the rail! WOW

So that's where it was when we got there. Anyway, here's a link to the post in the Before/After thread. You guys will like this one.

American Heritage Factory Hack

Enjoy!
 
Manufacture Hack?

Here's one I see all the time. I don't know if it qualifies as a "hack" job because it was made this way to begin with. Manufacturer design flaws like this kill me though.

I'm sure I'm not the only one that sees tables like this while moving them for people that "bought" them on Craigslist for nothing, and now want to know how much it's worth. Do you guys point out all the design problems or just nod and tell them they got a great deal? LOL

Anyway, this is a Brunswick Madison we moved recently.

I'm sure you've all seen this style:

Legs.jpg



The legs attach to the corners with these brackets that just don't look like they belong...

LegAttachment.jpg


They have unbacked slate with no liner, yet leather web pockets, so they use a small piece of wood to screw or staple the pocket tabs to. As you can see in the pictures, they don't line up right, don't match the profile of the slate, and don't sit flush to the frame.

PocketsMount-Corner.jpg


PocketMount-Side.jpg


My biggest peave though is the cross members in the frame: Notice the gap.

Crossbracespacing.jpg


They are held together with STAPLES!!!!

Missingcrossbrace.jpg


CrossBeamMount.jpg


And they almost ALWAYS fall apart. A lot of cheaper Brunswick tables had legs built with this design where the stretchers are mounted with these staples. How cheap!!! And answer me this...How the F am I suppsed to trust a 1" stapled block to be a structural support when I'm wedging the slate?! Just wondering.

Oh yeah...and then there's the blocks that the slate screws into...

SlateHolealignment.jpg


Slatescrewblocks.jpg


So in my opinion, the manufacturer hacked this table before any installer even touched it!!!

I do have to love the hack moves like shimming the slate with playing cards and putting the slate backwards on the frame that is CLEARLY marked for the head and foot.

Note there's no AFTER picture in this thread. For the price they paid for the table, it wasn't worth investing in repairs or improvements to the original design. Hell, it apparently wasn't even worth replacing the cloth that had a 2' stain in the middle of it and had been used for the last 3 installations. I decided NOT to show off the AFTER. LOL
 
masison

Josh, I do agree about the build of the madison table. I see you had a 7 foot unframed slate witch called for those pocket attach blocks.. witch the 8'foot had framed slate and no attachment blocks, brunswick called that model of madison "CY"..
I like to call it the"see why" lol' I'm sure you can finish that "see why" sentence...I have no idea what Bwick was thinking on the build of cross and center sill attachments' what a joke...those state screw blocks are down rite "dumb" because the wood splits just as you can see on almost all of em or the wood strips out... The table owner is just lucky that a guy like your self set it up to get the table to play well enough that its not gonna be a total loss and a pile of junk...
Rep to U'
-
Rob.M
 
I don't understand the deal with Brunswick.

You can tell by their older tables that they took pride in the Brunswick name and the push for quality. Most of their newer tables I have encountered are standard imported garbage. We set up a Brookstone awhile back that was shaky as hell. 3/4 inch unbacked slate does not weigh enough unless you have a cabinet that is ultra heavy to help compensate. How did they keep a straight face when designing these things?

I dread any pile of Brunswick crap that comes through our store. At least they got off of the particle board rails w/ laminate.

Brunswick might as well sell at Sears with the other Sportcraft and Mizerak nonsense.
 
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