Pin installation

deraltefritz

deraltefritz

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Dear cuemakers,


I would like to experiment with different combinations of length, diameter, taper and weight on the butt to figure out what type of cue suits me best. That would include exotic parameters, such as very thin 25mm end diameter and/or 40" long butts. Not really off the shelf type of cues that I could simply test drive in a shop.
(Please don't try to convince me that the standard range of cue parameters suffices. It might very well be so, but I just need to try for myself and get a feeling for these parameters, including the very odd combinations :o)

As having all these different combinations (I'm thinking about at least half a dozen different butts) made by a professional would cost quite a bit of money, I would like to figure out on my own what suits me best before going to a cuemaker for the final cue.


I have access to a big lathe at work and lots of round maple timber, so I can create different tapers, diameters, lengths etc. quite easily. I have Uni-Loc Radial pins in SS and aluminium, and of course a matching shaft.

What I do not have is a tap, and I would rather spend the money on more maple to experiment instead, so here's my question:
From an experimental point of view, is it absolutely necessary to use a tap to install a pin into the butt? Or would I get a reasonably tight and straight fit if I simply drilled a pilot hole with diameter somewhere in between the inner and outer diameter of the pin and then screwed the pin in with force? Like you do normal screws into wood...

Obviously not professional, and likely not long-lasting. I'm OK with that as it's just for experimentation.
It should however allow me to shoot a couple of hundred shots without breaking apart, and be reasonably straight after screwing on the shaft to provide good connection between butt and shaft.

Can anyone confirm that this could work out?

Thanks in advance!
 
Yes you can pressfit a pin, but it really makes no sense, the threads and locating barrel are there for a reason...
 
deraltefritz said:
Dear cuemakers,


I would like to experiment with different combinations of length, diameter, taper and weight on the butt to figure out what type of cue suits me best. That would include exotic parameters, such as very thin 25mm end diameter and/or 40" long butts. Not really off the shelf type of cues that I could simply test drive in a shop.
(Please don't try to convince me that the standard range of cue parameters suffices. It might very well be so, but I just need to try for myself and get a feeling for these parameters, including the very odd combinations :o)

As having all these different combinations (I'm thinking about at least half a dozen different butts) made by a professional would cost quite a bit of money, I would like to figure out on my own what suits me best before going to a cuemaker for the final cue.


I have access to a big lathe at work and lots of round maple timber, so I can create different tapers, diameters, lengths etc. quite easily. I have Uni-Loc Radial pins in SS and aluminium, and of course a matching shaft.

What I do not have is a tap, and I would rather spend the money on more maple to experiment instead, so here's my question:
From an experimental point of view, is it absolutely necessary to use a tap to install a pin into the butt? Or would I get a reasonably tight and straight fit if I simply drilled a pilot hole with diameter somewhere in between the inner and outer diameter of the pin and then screwed the pin in with force? Like you do normal screws into wood...

Obviously not professional, and likely not long-lasting. I'm OK with that as it's just for experimentation.
It should however allow me to shoot a couple of hundred shots without breaking apart, and be reasonably straight after screwing on the shaft to provide good connection between butt and shaft.

Can anyone confirm that this could work out?

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

You'd be much better off spending the time practicing and the money on lessons.
 
From an experimental point of view, is it absolutely necessary to use a tap to install a pin into the butt?
Click to expand...

Bore the hole approx. .002 smaller than the pin. apply the glue so it is only down inside the threads on the pin before installing. Too much glue...it'll explode when installing.
I would not recommend this style for any long term installation. It will undoubtedly loosen down the road from all the times you tighten the shaft down.
 
Machine down the last 3/4 inch of one of your aluminum pins at the bottom where it would normally screw into the butt permanently. Die the machined down end to a common thread size maybe 5/16 18 and buy a two dollar tap to tap the bottom of your hole in your test butts. Drill a larger hole for the pin and a small one at the bottom for the threads. It should screw in and hold good enough and back out of your testers when you're done and ready for the next one and still hold your shaft long enough for the analysis you want to do.

That's how I would solve this.

JC
 
deraltefritz said:
Dear cuemakers,


I would like to experiment with different combinations of length, diameter, taper and weight on the butt to figure out what type of cue suits me best. That would include exotic parameters, such as very thin 25mm end diameter and/or 40" long butts. Not really off the shelf type of cues that I could simply test drive in a shop.
(Please don't try to convince me that the standard range of cue parameters suffices. It might very well be so, but I just need to try for myself and get a feeling for these parameters, including the very odd combinations :o)

As having all these different combinations (I'm thinking about at least half a dozen different butts) made by a professional would cost quite a bit of money, I would like to figure out on my own what suits me best before going to a cuemaker for the final cue.


I have access to a big lathe at work and lots of round maple timber, so I can create different tapers, diameters, lengths etc. quite easily. I have Uni-Loc Radial pins in SS and aluminium, and of course a matching shaft.

What I do not have is a tap, and I would rather spend the money on more maple to experiment instead, so here's my question:
From an experimental point of view, is it absolutely necessary to use a tap to install a pin into the butt? Or would I get a reasonably tight and straight fit if I simply drilled a pilot hole with diameter somewhere in between the inner and outer diameter of the pin and then screwed the pin in with force? Like you do normal screws into wood...

Obviously not professional, and likely not long-lasting. I'm OK with that as it's just for experimentation.
It should however allow me to shoot a couple of hundred shots without breaking apart, and be reasonably straight after screwing on the shaft to provide good connection between butt and shaft.

Can anyone confirm that this could work out?

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

the pin would not be straight................

Kim
 
Depending on how good you are with tolerances you can press fit it straight. Could cut some wood relief channels to the pin. Might want to consider buying Chris Hightower's book on cuemaking. :)

Mario
 
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