Pool Cue Questions (Buying)

[buckshotshoey]

I agree with ridethewind. Joint types have no bearing on how a cue plays. They may "feel" different to an individual, but they all can pocket balls! LOL Many years ago, almost all cues were weighted in the rear of the cue. Now, a cuemaker can build the balance point anywhere into the cue, regardless of what type of joint they are installing. I have also owned dozens of cues, with every imaginable kind of joint and joint materials. I could play with any of them, at will.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

You both are prob right. It might not make a difference in playability. But it does feel better to me . Same as some would say a wood to wood joint is better. Its the feedback you get is what's important to some or not important to others. I like forward weight with open bridge. And spending 150 to 200 is not going to get you much technology (as in a cue maker being able to balance the cue wherever he wants). Like what was said earlier....its all about the feel.

 

[Scott Lee]

CaptainDidactic...Just fyi, most of the "feel" of a cue is in the tip. Even a cuemaker cannot look at it and tell if a LePro tip will mushroom or not. They have to be installed on a cue and played with. Some do and some don't. I've had a LePro on my G-Core shaft for a couple years now, and it hasn't mushroomed at all...even breaking with it. Nothing wrong with trying different tips, but as you said...LePros play quite well...and only cost a buck or two (less if you buy a box of 50). No need to spend $15-$50 for a tip...unless you want to.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

Tips are the same way. A good LePro tip plays quite well, but tends to mushroom and wear quickly. I'd spend the extra money on a little nicer cue and start with with a LePro tip and then upgrade to a different tip once you are used to the cue that you get.

 

[Scott Lee]

buckshotshoey...You're not being "attacked". You're right...it is all about how it feels...to YOU. All we're saying is that it's not accurate to 'recommend' something based on your feel, because it may well feel completely different to someone else. The part you said about different joints for different bridges is just inaccurate. Everyone has to develop their own sense of "feel". It helps to play with a lot of different cues. I guarantee you this too...a pro player can take a $20 house cue off the wall and win all the money in the room. It's about the stroke...not the cue or tip. :grin:

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

You both are prob right. It might not make a difference in playability. But it does feel better to me . Same as some would say a wood to wood joint is better. Its the feedback you get is what's important to some or not important to others. I like forward weight with open bridge. And spending 150 to 200 is not going to get you much technology (as in a cue maker being able to balance the cue wherever he wants). Like what was said earlier....its all about the feel.

 

[buckshotshoey]

buckshotshoey...You're not being "attacked". You're right...it is all about how it feels...to YOU. All we're saying is that it's not accurate to 'recommend' something based on your feel, because it may well feel completely different to someone else. The part you said about different joints for different bridges is just inaccurate. Everyone has to develop their own sense of "feel". It helps to play with a lot of different cues. I guarantee you this too...a pro player can take a $20 house cue off the wall and win all the money in the room. It's about the stroke...not the cue or tip. :grin:

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

All is good. I Don't feel attacked. Just trying to describe how it feels to me. There might be some who feel the same way. And a stainless joint does shift the balance point forward a little. But to get back to the op's question, I don't think anyone can say I'm wrong in recommending a Viking as a first cue. They make good stuff for a production cue!

 

[Prey]

To the OP. Pure X by players is a great choice for your price range.

 

[Bambu]

Hey guys -

Being that I'm a first time cue buyer, I'm not sure what to look for over the Internet to pick out a good cue from a great cue. So, a few questions:

-What do you look for in a good cue while searching online?
-How does tip hardness affect playability? What's the difference between a soft tip, medium tip, hard tip? I ask because when I buy a cue I want to upgrade it from the stock Le Pro Tip.
-What should I see online and see as red flags for a potentially bad cue?

Thanks everybody,

-Richard

P.S. Most of you probably know that I play with a 19 oz Dufferin house cue but in this upcoming session I'll be moving around more and will need my own personal cue.

P.P.S. I made this thread already today then changed it's name but it wasn't showing up with the name change which was too direct and misleading so I'm reposting this thread with a better title.

Cues to avoid are mostly found at sporting goods or department stores, like Models. They have beer logos, biker emblems, flames, skulls, etc. Sometimes they have a yellowish tint on the shaft, and a thick coat of clear on the shaft. Also avoid screw on tips.

If its a first cue, spend $50 on a McDermott Lucky cue on ebay or amazon. Either that, or the sneaky pete eliminator, around $60.

That cue should give you plenty of time to try out as many other cues as you can, until you find the one you like. Go with a medium tip, at least until you can get the feel of what hard and soft can do.

 

[Pushout]

If you are just learning to play you probably don't need to spend more than $100. By all means stay away from low deflection shafts until you have more experience. If possible, try before you buy. As already said, a used cue may be a good buy. Try to get someone to help you decide, in person, who has more experience.

 

[Zphix]

Hey guys -

Just thought I'd update you on what happened when I hit a few balls with some different:

I love the Kamui soft tips because they give me extra CB draw, and English =P

 

[Rain-Man]

As I told you in our PM's, the Pure X HXT shafts come with them on them, and are the best tips out there (and at least a $30 upgrade in tip)..

 

[BRussell]

By all means stay away from low deflection shafts until you have more experience.

I'm curious why you say that. I would think that getting one from the beginning would be a good idea.

 

[bdorman]

Hi Z,

The Player's HXT series are great. I've got the entire set-up below available for less than $200. I used the cues below for one year. Both cues are perfectly straight, lots of tip left. They both have small nicks in the butt sleeve. Also include joint protectors for the HXTE10, moosehead bridge and new Masters Blue Chalk.

If you're ever in the NW suburbs you can play-before-you-buy. Just shoot me a PM.

Here's what I've got for sale:

Player's HXTE10 $153 at Seybert's. I'd take $110 plus shipping http://www.seyberts.com/products/Pure_X_by_Players_HXTE10_Pool_Cue-102578-10161.html

Player's JB5 jump-break cue $89 at Seybert's plus $25 for the upgraded Samarsa tip (instead of standard phenolic). I'd take $75. http://www.seyberts.com/products/Players_S_PJB5_Pool_Cue-101118-332.html

Buy both and I'll throw in the 2x2 case. http://www.seyberts.com/products/Black_2x2_Lined_Hard_Pool_Cue_Case-103998-208.html[/QUOTE][/QUOTE]

Probably run about $200 for everything including shipping in CON US.

 

[ridewiththewind]

Hi Z,

The Player's HXT series are great. I've got the entire set-up below available for less than $200. I used the cues below for one year. Both cues are perfectly straight, lots of tip left. They both have small nicks in the butt sleeve. Also include joint protectors for the HXTE10, moosehead bridge and new Masters Blue Chalk.

If you're ever in the NW suburbs you can play-before-you-buy. Just shoot me a PM.

Here's what I've got for sale:

Player's HXTE10 $153 at Seybert's. I'd take $110 plus shipping http://www.seyberts.com/products/Pure_X_by_Players_HXTE10_Pool_Cue-102578-10161.html

Player's JB5 jump-break cue $89 at Seybert's plus $25 for the upgraded Samarsa tip (instead of standard phenolic). I'd take $75. http://www.seyberts.com/products/Players_S_PJB5_Pool_Cue-101118-332.html

Buy both and I'll throw in the 2x2 case. http://www.seyberts.com/products/Black_2x2_Lined_Hard_Pool_Cue_Case-103998-208.html

[/QUOTE]

Probably run about $200 for everything including shipping in CON US.[/QUOTE]

IMHO...those aren't 'small' nicks. Those are through the finish.

 

[Poolplaya9]

IMHO...those aren't 'small' nicks. Those are through the finish.

I consider them to be gouges as opposed to nicks, with some of them being pretty good gouges at that, but didn't say anything because I figured the pictures speak for themselves. You might be right in speaking up though as a newer player may not know what is considered to be minor or major, not sure.

 

[Scott Lee]

Two cues, with a case AND shipping...for $200? Seems like a pretty good deal to me...especially as starter setup for a new player. Who cares about cosmetics. They don't affect the play of the cues. As long as they're straight I don't see anything wrong with this deal. Kudos to bdorman for offering it to this kid...especially with a "play with it first" option!

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

I consider them to be gouges as opposed to nicks, with some of them being pretty good gouges at that, but didn't say anything because I figured the pictures speak for themselves. You might be right in speaking up though as a newer player may not know what is considered to be minor or major, not sure.

 

[slide13]

Those are some pretty good nicks, but props to the poster for clearly pointing all of them out, that is an honest post right there and for the full setup shipped, not a bad deal if you don't mind a little cosmetic wear. I like when a seller points out all the flaws like that as I feel like I'm not going to get surprised when a cue shows up in worse shape than advertised.

 

[ridewiththewind]

I consider them to be gouges as opposed to nicks, with some of them being pretty good gouges at that, but didn't say anything because I figured the pictures speak for themselves. You might be right in speaking up though as a newer player may not know what is considered to be minor or major, not sure.

That was my only intent...to educate. For a complete set-up, it is a very good deal.

 

[Poolplaya9]

As others have posted, damage like that does not affect how the cue plays (whether you can live with whatever cosmetic damage is like most everything else, all personal preference), and $200 shipped for the package is not out of the reasonable spectrum either.

 

[Amel_P]

I just recently bought a players hxte20 from one of the az members and am so happy with it. It really was very different feel at first to the house cue i was using the hit felt very different, i actually played worse the first day literally the next day i got used to it and i cannot explain how much the stuck has helped me with consistency, and being more consistent really are my practice way more meaningful when i can replicate new things it was huge. I honestly can say my game has gone up so much the last few weeks since i got the hxt, i used to pocket well before but the biggest difference now is my cue ball control is leagues ahead from even a month ago. I will credit this alot to the change in consistency with my cue and it's alot easier to practice cue control when you get the same result every time. Also I seem to miss those damn straight shots alot less often.