Porper Model B HELP!!!

ratcues said:
Anything else?
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A better leadscrew arrangement.
Gibbs on the carriage. Some sort of steady rest.
Either more power or lower gearing or both for coring.
A better, non-binding, adjustable taper bar setup.
The real icing on the cake would be thread cutting capabilities.

Robin Snyder
 
Last edited:
carguy said:
A better leadscrew arrangement.
Gibbs on the carriage. Some sort of steady rest.
Either more power or lower gearing or both for coring.
A better, non-binding, adjustable taper bar setup.
The real icing on the cake would be thread cutting capabilities.

Robin Snyder
Click to expand...

Cutting threads would be my vote....
 
bob_bushka said:
I am sure Don with Creative Inventions could help me but Muellers fields all there calls now. My .headstock is within a half a thousands. When I chuck in a pointed dead center to my headstock and one in my tailstock they do not meet perfect. Any ideas on how to get these to line up so I can bore accurately. Hopefully some one has had a similar experience. I think I need to adjust somethimg in the tailstock but kind of lost.
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What is the serial number on the back of the lathe?
 
I've seen a couple of Porper setups mounted on a heavy steel plate to which all legs come to rest on the same plane keeping the bed tubes in alignment. This seems to keep the tail piece in line. I am not a cuemaker but do repairs. I mention this because the lathe owners told me that was the reason for the heavy base.

Big Al
 
silk purse from a sow's ear

I think you have to be realistic about the capabilities of these lathes. I helped rebuild one for a buddy. We replaced bearings and the complete carriage, I also built him a poor mans DRO and we installed a quick change Alloris style tool post. He also ordered the rear chuck and new spindle which we installed. My impressions of this lathe after becoming familiar with it was that the only advantage it had against a real metal cutting lathe was the fact that it was portable, but at the end of the day it is a aluminum lathe with round ways. You can only expect so much from this machine, to presume to do the same job as a real lathe is unrealistic and you would be chasing your tail in trying to modify it to the point that you could compare the two.
 
Tighten chuck

Check to see if your chuck is screwed all the way up against the headstock. It has some set screws that can be adjusted.
 
Thanks for all your input. I emailed Creative and Don was nice enough to give me a callback and give me a couple tips. I have yet to try it but I will after I finish a couple things I am doing right now. Don has always been more than helpful and he gave me his personal number. Thanks Don!
 
Food for thought, and bear in mind I do not own a porper so not familiar, but if the tailstock is always out, and absolutely not adjustable, then may be the solution is on the head stock end. Is there any adjustment there?
 
Renegade_56 said:
Food for thought, and bear in mind I do not own a porper so not familiar, but if the tailstock is always out, and absolutely not adjustable, then may be the solution is on the head stock end. Is there any adjustment there?
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Is anyone with a Porper Lathe looking at this possibility?
 
It is a good lathe to do wraps, tips, ferrules and butt cap repairs. If you are spinning a shaft or butt for sanding ect. the tailstock flaw is ok, but I would never want to taper anything or do billets on this lathe.
 
So, last night I tried the tailstock fix I suggested in Post 10.
It took 10 minutes or so.
Works fine.

I should have done this years ago.

Robin Snyder
 
JoeyInCali said:
If there is, people would just mess it up and blame the lathe.
An adjustable tailstock is good enough.
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True. If you get the spindle cocked wrong, you create a new set of problems.

I am trying to get an adjustable tailstock built but it will take time.
 
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