Porper Model B mods and accessories.

Tommy-D

World's best B player...
Silver Member
> Having permanently borrowed the newest copy of the Meuller catalog,I have taken a much closer view of a Model B lathe than I ever have previously. It has been mentioned here that the older ones are either built better or differently than newer models,and that modifications are necessary to make it as funtional as the older ones. Can those that commented earlier on that subject elaborate,with precisely what needs to be done to one to make it as good as it can be? Would this machine be a better purchase than a full sized 40" metal lathe,even with the tooling that Porper offers with it? Are the collets and other items that are offered as accessories necessary,or SHOULD I make these items for myself? Can standard 5/16 or 3/8 shank C2 carbide insert cutting tools be used with it,or is there some anomaly that requires buying theirs?(60 dollars EACH for the turning,facing and part-off tools,versus 60 bucks for a BOX of 12) It didn't appear so in the photos,does this machine have threading capability? Is the router they picture with it heavy enough,or should I visit the Porter-Cable plant an hour from me? I need all the input I can get here,I may have someone fronting me the cash to buy this machine or something similar soon. Thanks ahead of time,Tommy D.
 

Sheldon

dontneednostinkintitle
Silver Member
It will depend on you, and what you want out of it.
Porper lathes are no good for threading, I suppose it would be possible, but getting the proper speed/pitch would be nearly impossible.
If you are going to be seriously building cues, you will need several lathes. If you are just doing repairs, a porper lathe might be all you need, and fit the bill nicely.
 

Pancerny

Mike Pancerny
Silver Member
I would recommend that you immediately change to a quick change tool post...I just recently did that for mine and wish I'd done it 8 years ago!! That will also solve the tool dilema. The router is fine, you won't be doing heavy cuts and there is a specially designed holder for the lathe...you will like it...I bought a second one for my Clausing lathe and bought another trim router at Home Depot. The adjustable collets designed by Joe are great and you will definately want them, they make life easy. Not sure about the Mod necessary to make it as good as an older one, I think I have an older one...but mow you have my interest up why they would have changed it???
All in all it's a great machine with many good features but mainly for repair and to get you interested in building cues. As Sheldon mentioned, serious cuemakers will want several lathes, this one has a place in any cuemakers shop!
Mike
 

Tommy-D

World's best B player...
Silver Member
> From what I gathered in an earlier discussion about this machine,that was the general consensus was that is needed mods of SOME kind,perhaps they were referring to the tool post as well. One thing I didn't like about what I saw looking at the pics in the catalog was the lack of indicating marks on the hand dials,like you see on a regular machine lathe,which really arent THAT important to me,I read an indicator pretty well. Does the carriage have a leadscrew for the X travel,or is there some other mechanism that feeds it? How accurate is the chuck,and can it be upgraded? Tommy D.
 

Pancerny

Mike Pancerny
Silver Member
There is a screw for the cross feed but it is not powered. The lead screw allows for powered and manual feeds in both directions. My lathe came supplied with a Bison chick, if they still come with that there will be no need to upgrade. If you plan on using the lathe to do cue repair at tournaments, you will want to build some sort of enclosure to secure it at night when you close up shop. This will also help steady the machine and provide you with a spot for sandpaper trays and lights. It's also nice to have handles to carry the box a bit easier. If you do build a box, I would recommend spending the extra money for birch plywood to keep the weight down.

I put a photo of my Porper lathe with the box on my shop tour.
http://customcuemaker.com/shoptour.htm

Mike
 

macguy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Nice pictures. Where do you buy that cutter you are using for thread cutting? I use one I made but would like to just buy one. Thanks
 

Canadian cue

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Solid carbide tooling

macguy said:
Nice pictures. Where do you buy that cutter you are using for thread cutting? I use one I made but would like to just buy one. Thanks
Micro 100..........
 

Pancerny

Mike Pancerny
Silver Member
macguy said:
Nice pictures. Where do you buy that cutter you are using for thread cutting? I use one I made but would like to just buy one. Thanks

I purchased the tool from a guy in California.
It is solid carbide and cost me $100.00 but it's well worth it!!
Mike

Here's his info....
Ed Pimintel
MP Tool
7812 Clybourn Ave.
Sun Valley, Ca 91352
818-771-0466
 

Tommy-D

World's best B player...
Silver Member
Building a box for Porper lathe.

> Actually,as a repair rig I am planning on mounting it to a Snap-On 40" 14 drawer tool cart,and building a slide-on top to cover it. What kind of a router will I need to use these thread mills,and what can you tell me about the mods to the toolpost to accomodate it? Tommy D.
 

homer

Banned
Tommy-D said:
> From what I gathered in an earlier discussion about this machine,that was the general consensus was that is needed mods of SOME kind,perhaps they were referring to the tool post as well. One thing I didn't like about what I saw looking at the pics in the catalog was the lack of indicating marks on the hand dials,like you see on a regular machine lathe,which really arent THAT important to me,I read an indicator pretty well. Does the carriage have a leadscrew for the X travel,or is there some other mechanism that feeds it? How accurate is the chuck,and can it be upgraded? Tommy D.
I have now seen 3 out of four of these lathes( porper model b) , and they all, wiht the exception of one, have the runout problem with the chuck. The one was purchased when porper first starting making these. The other three were all afterwards.with 2 of them being brand new. i'm not sure when they supposedly change contractors, but a porper lathe in my estimation is a bad bet. Everyone i've talked too is bailing
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Here's a good suggestion. If you all can get Porper to give me one for free. I'll tell you all including Porper what's wrong and how to fix it.
I gave him one modification 7 years ago and saved him quite a bit of money. Think he would have learned from that.
 

Tommy-D

World's best B player...
Silver Member
Sounds bad.....

> Yeah,as a machinist student,I can see problems with .002-.003 TIR,that's about like the 40 yr old worn out South Bend lathes I use at school. The best machine we have as far as lathes was there when my instructor took the same course he now teaches back in 1985,and said it was worn out then. This might dissuade me from purchasing one,unless someone else has answers for this dilemma. Tommy D.
 

cuemaker03

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I purchased the tool from a guy in California.
It is solid carbide and cost me $100.00 but it's well worth it!!
Mike

Here's his info....
Ed Pimintel
MP Tool
7812 Clybourn Ave.
Sun Valley, Ca 91352
818-771-0466

Nothing beats threading.
 

BLACKHEARTCUES

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have 6 lathes. 3 of them are Porpers. I do about 1000 repairs a year & have made as many as 72 cues a year. I have no problem with these lathes...JER
 

Eric Wynne

Banned
I 've made some mods to mine , 5" bison 4 jaw chuck -w- indexable backplate , a prototype from Porper , quickchange toolpost , bought the rear chuck from Lee ... Made most of my own collets ... Works great ...:cool: DSC01678.jpg
 

josie

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have a Porper B and a Hightower Deluxe. I love the porper for the variable speed, taper for butts and shafts and pointwork. I upgraded to a porter cable mounted on 4" angle iron. I also upgraded to a phase II q/c toolpost series 100 I believe. I like the porper for turning shafts. I also use an epoxy finish that you need to turn really slow to let cure and the porper can do that. One main draw back is no steady rest. The dial for the cross slide is marked at .002" intervals.

The deluxe is great to have two headstocks close together for working on forearms and handles and the different steady rest options are great. I do not like turning shafts on the Hightower because it turns too fast in my opinion.

They both have advantages and think it is best to have more than one machine for different funtions.

I personally think the Porper is a great machine. I also like the Hightower and am glad I have them both.
 

ratcues

Theewen Custom Cues
Silver Member
I have now seen 3 out of four of these lathes( porper model b) , and they all, wiht the exception of one, have the runout problem with the chuck. The one was purchased when porper first starting making these. The other three were all afterwards.with 2 of them being brand new. i'm not sure when they supposedly change contractors, but a porper lathe in my estimation is a bad bet. Everyone i've talked too is bailing

You can indicate the chucks.

Since we sell the machines, I get calls all the time from customers with questions or problems. 9 out of 10 times the customer is just inexperienced with lathes and cue building.

I've also done a few mods to my machine but I only use it when I go to tournaments. I'll post some pics when I get a chance but I would be interested to see pics of everyone's mods.
 
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Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
The Porper is a very good machine, The little Bison chuck is also very good, The backing plate could have been designed better, It's at best a lazy mans adjust chuck, set up using set screws to offset, for most people who buy this machine, Not a good idea. Just my opinion.
 
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