Powerfeed Help - Carriage Binding
- Thread starter Dirtbmw20
- Start date
could also be dirty track ,??
That is probably it..........Also....... is the rack gear a constant distance from the dove tail? If not it could cause binding.
Kim
Thanks to EVERYONE who replied, suggested, recommended, sent me PM's, etc....
I made ALOT of changes/adjustments yesterday messing with the power feed, but it does seem I had the pinion gear too far in and was hitting the back wall of the lathe (as Todd pointed out from my pics). After making all the adjustments, it doesn't bind anymore and rides down the bed pretty smooth. Smooth enough that during the testing I didn't hook up the support bracket and it still traveled smooth with no glitches. I WON'T be using it with no support bracket, I only did that for testing yesterday. I just wanted to point out that moving the pinion back made THAT much of a difference.
Please don't flame me, I already feel stoooopid enough for not catching or seeing that, even after posting the pics myself I didn't see it. I just wanted to thank EVERYONE that helped and replied and especially Todd for putting up with my dumb ass and stupid questions that have obvious answers.
Have no worries, the stupid questions will continue, adding taper bars are next and my final step to completion. I'm sure something as simple as a taper bar will stump and confuse me,lol. :smile:
I made ALOT of changes/adjustments yesterday messing with the power feed, but it does seem I had the pinion gear too far in and was hitting the back wall of the lathe (as Todd pointed out from my pics). After making all the adjustments, it doesn't bind anymore and rides down the bed pretty smooth. Smooth enough that during the testing I didn't hook up the support bracket and it still traveled smooth with no glitches. I WON'T be using it with no support bracket, I only did that for testing yesterday. I just wanted to point out that moving the pinion back made THAT much of a difference.
Please don't flame me, I already feel stoooopid enough for not catching or seeing that, even after posting the pics myself I didn't see it. I just wanted to thank EVERYONE that helped and replied and especially Todd for putting up with my dumb ass and stupid questions that have obvious answers. Have no worries, the stupid questions will continue, adding taper bars are next and my final step to completion. I'm sure something as simple as a taper bar will stump and confuse me,lol. :smile:
look into the waylube Lee,,,,it makes a lot of difference.
Nice to know you got it figured out.
Nice to know you got it figured out.
Don't feel too bad. It's all a learning experience.
Sometimes it seems that most of what I learned, I learned by F***ing Up.
The upside is that the lesson is hard to forget.
.
Thanks to EVERYONE who replied, suggested, recommended, sent me PM's, etc....
I made ALOT of changes/adjustments yesterday messing with the power feed, but it does seem I had the pinion gear too far in and was hitting the back wall of the lathe (as Todd pointed out from my pics). After making all the adjustments, it doesn't bind anymore and rides down the bed pretty smooth. Smooth enough that during the testing I didn't hook up the support bracket and it still traveled smooth with no glitches. I WON'T be using it with no support bracket, I only did that for testing yesterday. I just wanted to point out that moving the pinion back made THAT much of a difference.
Have no worries, the stupid questions will continue, adding taper bars are next and my final step to completion. I'm sure something as simple as a taper bar will stump and confuse me,lol. :smile:
If anyone flames you for not knowing how to fix a problem then I would love to hear from them how they never need help and woke up one day and just knew how to make cues. lol glad you fixed it. This is exactly what this forum is for.
To the OP, please don't follow this guy. He is obviously stuck in a particular learning stage and will not be able to move forward. I am sure that the carriage is loose as hell.
The Taig based lathe will build a guy cue, don't get me wrong. It was not made to move back and forth on the bed for hours at a time. If you are serious about cue making this will just be a stepping stone and not the main work horse of your shop. Please don't end up with those thousands of other guys.
And for the record, I have used one of these lathes. I have one sitting in the corner of my shop. It was a great stepping stone.
Glad you solved your issue. Don't stop there. There is a great big world out there.
P.S. make sure you have plenty of pinion gears on hand. You don't want to stop working because it is broken.
Jim.
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I can't see you getting flamed for this. I would love to see more info like this on the forum. How to's, I screwed this up's, If this happens do this's. All would be great threads to read. Keep up the good fight, and I wish you a happy whatever doesn't offend you.
To the OP, please don't follow this guy. He is obviously stuck in a particular learning stage and will not be able to move forward.
My carriage moves back and forth on my dovetail lathe bed for hours at a time with great results..................... I am not making crankshafts I am making pool cues and it is not necessary to have a big metal lathe. If that is what you want to work with .... that's ok with me.......... but keep your derrogatory remarks to your self.
Just because people don't do it like you doesn't mean it is not right................. are you just a basher or a helper????
Kim
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What's the power feed for ?
It's not stepper driven so it's not for tapering .
would be a little challenging.
It's not stepper driven so it's not for tapering .
I can imagine that dovetail wearing out and holding tolerance good enough to be able to keep the joint collars at .001-.002" oversized for sanding mandrel matching
would be a little challenging.
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Joey,
Can you possibly explain or elaborate on this for me ?? What does a stepper motor have to do with tapering ?? Once I add taper bars to the lathe I should be able to taper using the power feed motor, shouldn't I ?? I have it hooked to a tattoo power supply and can adjust it from a dead crawl to running 1/4 mile drag times down the rail. So why can't I use that set-up for tapering my butts and handles ??
Although I hope you know I'm kidding about the 1/4 mile drag times but I AM serious about my other question(s). I'm not trying to be a smart ass by any means, I'm interested in learning.
Joey is talking about having the stepper motor on the X and Y travel for CNC tapering as opposed to your setup. You have a motor for smoother travel, but it isn't necessary for your tapering setup. The taper bar(s) will determine your tapering capability, not a computer.
That is correct.
You do not need auto power feed to taper.
You need that cross slide released and spring locked to the taper bar.
Thanks Joey. I understand now that I read shakes explanation and then your confirmation. I know you don't HAVE to have power feed to taper, but it has to make it easier and since that costs less than taper bars, being unemployed at the time, I'm doing my additions one at a time from the cheapest to the most expensive. I already have the cross slide spring loaded but it is just locked down right now, I just have to add taper bars and hoping for a little extra cash at Christmas time so I can add them. THEN I can taper. :smile:
My bad.
You need that power feed to move up and down the lathe.
I'm not crazy about rack and pinion instead of a lead screw and half nut though.
You will need a taper bar of course.
You can make your own.
http://www.rockler.com/uhmw-plastic-jig-stock-3-8-inch-thick
Something like that bolted on aluminum extrusion would work .
1" wide with 32-34" long .
You will need an indicator and a 30" rod you can indicate to be able to set your taper.
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I just got an OLD Deluxe a couple weeks ago,and today was the first time the powerfeed it came with was installed and actually used,although no tapering was done.
You know what I found out? ChapStick works GREAT as a lube on the aluminum parts,either under hand power or with the powerfeed installed,and the built-in applicator sure helps on the sides of the dovetail. The gibs were set snug enough there was as close to zero slop as I could get.
The fastest setting on the powerfeed (9v) is right at 15 IPM,and also have settings for 3,4.5,6,and 7.5. Tommy D.
You know what I found out? ChapStick works GREAT as a lube on the aluminum parts,either under hand power or with the powerfeed installed,and the built-in applicator sure helps on the sides of the dovetail. The gibs were set snug enough there was as close to zero slop as I could get.
The fastest setting on the powerfeed (9v) is right at 15 IPM,and also have settings for 3,4.5,6,and 7.5. Tommy D.
Tommy,
That's great to know on the chapstick. What in the world made you even think of using chapstick, lol. I'm gonna check into the waylube everyone mentioned.
When testing/checking/playing with the power feed, I am using a tattoo power supply. I tested the speed on a 24" section of the bed (not inches per minute) and the fastest speed is 24" in 22 seconds (which is pretty damn fast compared to the fastest speed of 15" per minute) and the slowest speed was 24" in 7 minutes and 55 seconds. So mine will run as fast or slow as you could ever need and anywhere in between. That's interesting the speed rates you listed for yours that came with the lathe. That at least tells me I won't need to go faster than 15" per minute, lol.
What speed to you run the power feed on when tapering a butt or a handle ???
Lee Casto